2.3L ('83-'97) Replaced starter and alternator, what do I do now?

[signorgreenleaf]

UPDATE:
So I ended up getting new battery terminals (zinc) because one of them broke when I over tightened. I also brushed the cables until the wire was close to copper colored and that got it working! Everything was good to go for a good month or so. Just a couple days ago I got the single click thing again. This time I have new terminals, plus the wire is somewhat clean, and the starter is about a month or so old.
I took my battery to the store and they said it had a low charge but still good. I left it there to charge when I came back the guy said it was overcharged. I still took it and tried it. No go.
So I bought a new battery and still nothing. Oh and by the way, I put a multimeter on my old battery while it was still connected to the car. and it read 12.36
I just rechecked my old batt today (not connected to truck) and it reads 12.48 now.

So I was thinking it was the alternator. I bought a new one replaced it and still nothing.
I took the old alternator to the store and they did say it was no good though.

So now im just lost. I just wanna get my damn truck home lol
Any help is appreciated guys!

EDIT: this is what my current dash looks like (before turning completely) before AND after I changed the alternator.

 

[RobbieD]

Look closely at your battery cables, the terminal ends and especially for corrosion hiding inside the insulation.

 

[signorgreenleaf]

Look closely at your battery cables, the terminal ends and especially for corrosion hiding inside the insulation.

okay, will do! Thank you

 

[RonD]

Yes, the single "click" means there is enough amps to activated the starter relay, which needs 0.5 amps
Starter motor needs 60amps, so.............

The 60 amps needs to travel from battery positive to battery negative, so either cable can prevent the flow of amps THRU starter motor

Since tapping on old motor got it to work I would say its brushes are worn out, so it can test as OK but will be intermittent until it fails completely
So new starter motor would be best, or carry a hammer

There are 2 wires on 1997 starter, the larger battery positive cable that needs to carry the 60 amps and the smaller "S" post wire that activates the starter solenoid on top of the starter motor

There can be 2 smaller posts on a starter solenoid, only one will activate the starter, it will have a "S" next to it

 

[signorgreenleaf]

Yes, the single "click" means there is enough amps to activated the starter relay, which needs 0.5 amps
Starter motor needs 60amps, so.............

The 60 amps needs to travel from battery positive to battery negative, so either cable can prevent the flow of amps THRU starter motor

Since tapping on old motor got it to work I would say its brushes are worn out, so it can test as OK but will be intermittent until it fails completely
So new starter motor would be best, or carry a hammer

There are 2 wires on 1997 starter, the larger battery positive cable that needs to carry the 60 amps and the smaller "S" post wire that activates the starter solenoid on top of the starter motor

There can be 2 smaller posts on a starter solenoid, only one will activate the starter, it will have a "S" next to it

so I tried to start it again this morning and it turned on smoothly
I took the old starter to the store and they said it was donezo
But when I tried to leave it won’t turn on again :/
So now I’m just out here.. lol

I took a pic of the battery posts
I’m not sure how to check the rest atm

 

[RobbieD]

Your picture shows universal battery cable replacement ends, and they're not new. It would be worth the time to clean these; it should be part of regular maintenance anyway and it may likely fix your "no start" condition.

Get you a round battery terminal brush, and a stiff wire brush (like shaped like a tooth brush).

>>> On my older trucks, I ALWAYS remove the negative terminal from the battery first, and reconnect it last.

On each cable end remove the two bolts, and the top plate over the wire ends. Brush the cable wire strands until all of them are shiny copper color. You can "fan" the strands to reach everywhere on them, and you can retwist them back round with pliers. Also brush the bottom of the plate and the cable end wire groove. Then reassemble the cable end back into the terminal and top plate, Tighten the plate bolts, but be careful that you don't strip 'em out.

Now take the round terminal brush and clean up the battery post, and the inside of the cable end.

Reconnect the cable ends to the battery posts, negative last. You already have felt washers, which help prevent corrosion, and you can smear some dielectric grease on the cable ends to also help prevent corrosion.

There's a good chance this might fix the problem you're having, and cleaning the cable ends won't be a waste of time.

 

[signorgreenleaf]

Your picture shows universal battery cable replacement ends, and they're not new. It would be worth the time to clean these; it should be part of regular maintenance anyway and it may likely fix your "no start" condition.

Get you a round battery terminal brush, and a stiff wire brush (like shaped like a tooth brush).

>>> On my older trucks, I ALWAYS remove the negative terminal from the battery first, and reconnect it last.

On each cable end remove the two bolts, and the top plate over the wire ends. Brush the cable wire strands until all of them are shiny copper color. You can "fan" the strands to reach everywhere on them, and you can retwist them back round with pliers. Also brush the bottom of the plate and the cable end wire groove. Then reassemble the cable end back into the terminal and top plate, Tighten the plate bolts, but be careful that you don't strip 'em out.

Now take the round terminal brush and clean up the battery post, and the inside of the cable end.

Reconnect the cable ends to the battery posts, negative last. You already have felt washers, which help prevent corrosion, and you can smear some dielectric grease on the cable ends to also help prevent corrosion.

There's a good chance this might fix the problem you're having, and cleaning the cable ends won't be a waste of time.

So I ended up getting new battery terminals (zinc) because one of them broke when I over tightened. I also brushed the cables until the wire was close to copper colored and that got it working! Everything was good to go for a good month or so. Just a couple days ago I got the single click thing again. This time I have new terminals, plus the wire is somewhat clean, and the starter is about a month or so old.
I took my battery to the store and they said it had a low charge but still good. I left it there to charge when I came back the guy said it was overcharged. I still took it and tried it. No go.
So I bought a new battery and still nothing. Oh and by the way, I put a multimeter on my old battery while it was still connected to the car. and it read 12.36
I just rechecked my old batt today (not connected to truck) and it reads 12.48 now.

So I was thinking it was the alternator. I bought a new one replaced it and still nothing.
I took the old alternator to the store and they did say it was no good though.

So now im just lost. I just wanna get my damn truck home lol
Any help is appreciated guys!

EDIT: this is what my current dash looks like (before turning completely) before AND after I changed the alternator.

 

[bobbywalter]

Why....why would you buy an alternator?


Did you ground it with the jumper cables to the frame? This sounds like a continuity issue...often it's the frame and engine side of the ground.....but if you have a dual relay setup...it can get hooked up wrong or have a bad connection.

What you want to do if it has the small solonoid wire on the starter and fender, is run a a small jumper right from the starter side up to the hot on the battery... If it works well....the fender relay may be bad.....clunking but boogered on the contactor bad....or the small wire is corroded internally..or broken..from there to the starter solo.....put the jumper from the starter to the fender lug and try the key...if it goes....you found it.

Use the battery jumper cables right on the engine to the ground side of the battery first....as it is easiest...

 

[signorgreenleaf]

I dunno, because im a novice?

im not sure what you mean by "Did you ground it with the jumper cables to the frame"

my starter is only accessible from the bottom are you suggesting I run a jumper cable from down there?

 

[RonD]

No
When you use jumper cables you usually hook Positive to Positive on the batteries
Then hook negative jumper cable to vehicles bare metal, like an engine bracket
You can go negative to negative on battery terminals

But if, say the Ground cable to your engine block was corroded or marginal, you would have the same issue of a no crank
Hooking jumper to the engine directly just takes that off the table

In a DC circuit BOTH positive and negative have to pass the same AMPs
A starter motor needs 60amps at least
So positive cable needs to pass 60 amps to the starter motor, then that 60amps passes thru the starter motor and back to the battery on the negative cable, this is why BOTH cables are so large
If negative cable can only pass, say 10amps, then no starter motor, lights and other systems would work fine, but no starter motor

 

[bobbywalter]

I mean to ...with the solid battery...ground the engine right to the battery negative...and if necessary the large end on the starter hot side to the positive with the red side.

Then using a small jumper....start cranking

 

[bobbywalter]

Pictures of starter and relay wiring?