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Starter grinding help me figure it out please


kossdust

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Ok I replaced the starter to my 98 Mazda b2500 Manual 4 cycl in march and it worked fine till about Nov.

I started having a grinding noise when starting. It stopped starting shortly after and I replaced the starter (the one I took of had the gear broken and wedge into the side of starter have pic can post later) Then the new starter had a small grinding sound but worked fine. It would only make the sound once in awhile so I assumed it was the flywheel with a few bad teeth at the one point where the last one went bad. It then stoped working on me so I pulled the starter to find the bendix moving freely . After replacing it I am having some trouble starting and grinding noise while starting. I think it is the flywheel that has been f'd

BTW all starters I have used has been NAPA ones

What do you guys think? I checked the fly each time and it never looked that bad. Also the bolts on the starter have been tight nor loose.

Should I use some shims?
 


Kenneth S

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I had that problem once with a pinto with a 2.3 w/manual trans, I made a shim for the starter by cutting out the starter portion off of a old block plate (it spaced the starter out about 1/16") never had any problems with it eating starters after that.
 

kossdust

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Well I was thinking of trying shims tonight but as luck would have it she took another starter with her this morning.

I am going to get it home and see if I can not turn the engine to look at the flywheel

How easy hard is it to replace the flywheel

unbolt transmission pull away from motor and replace flywheel. I thinking of just doing flywheel as clutch is still in good shape.

Is there a tutural or something in tech library on this?
 

Kenneth S

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Your best bet is to go to your local autoparts, or book store and buy a Haynes manual for your truck, it's around $20.00-25.00 for one, it will have just about all the info you need on the whole truck as far as repair, trouble shooting, etc..
 

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The flywheel's ring gear may need replacing by now, I would inspect it for damage.

Do you have the metal spacer between the Motor and Tranny? it is what positions the starter, if it's not there, the start won't engage properly. You could try shimming it.
 

kossdust

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Your best bet is to go to your local autoparts, or book store and buy a Haynes manual for your truck, it's around $20.00-25.00 for one, it will have just about all the info you need on the whole truck as far as repair, trouble shooting, etc..
Yeah I already have the book I also have the shop manual. I was just looking for others thoughts on it. Reading and doing are two different things. Like when I did my timing belt a while back. "unbolt what is in your way, a/c sterring etc" like it was nothing to do but a few bolts and it took me about 4 hours being it was my first time and all.
 

kossdust

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The flywheel's ring gear may need replacing by now, I would inspect it for damage.

Do you have the metal spacer between the Motor and Tranny? it is what positions the starter, if it's not there, the start won't engage properly. You could try shimming it.
Yeah I going to inspect it tomorrow I hope. If it snows here in NC I do not have to go to work if it doesn't I do so we will see.

I am really thinking I should shim this and I not sure why I have looked past this so far, I feel like it might be my problem.
 

mercman

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Is your bendix wearing out on the front half? That is what happened to mine, it was also the same on 2 of 3 I pulled at the junk yard. If you are seeing the same problem it seems to me a shim would make it worse. Since the starter bolts to the front of the bellhousing the more you shim it towards the front of the engine the less flywheel contact you are getting. Could be wrong, but something to look at.
If your flywheel is bad it's not too hard to change, depending on where you are doing it at. In a garage with a good jack and a set of stands it isn't too bad. Just get started early to be safe. On mine the worst part was the 12 point drive line bolts they are tight.
 

kossdust

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Ok talked to an old friend of mine today and he said that they make two starters of this engine one being for an automatic and one for the manual and is thinking that maybe I am getting the wrong one.

Any one have a part number or anything like that so I could check?
 

kossdust

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Ok pulled the starter today and half the flywheel teeth are gone

I am thinking maybe when I changed the timing belt (did the bump the starter thing) I chipped a tooth. Then I kept chipping teeth with starters and what not causing me to wind up where I am at now.

So if I fix this now, and correctly it shouldn't happen again, atleast till I change my timing belt again. Or could something else be going on?
 

Kenneth S

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If you fix it correctly now, it should last the life of the truck, the main cause of the teeth getting broken off is hitting the starter while the engines running, the broken gear on the first starter you pulled out was probably the one that did the damage by the main cause I listed above.
 

kossdust

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Ok last weekend I pulled the flywheel off and replaced it. It started so easily and nice sounding for a week. Then it ate another starter. So I need some more ideas. I am switching starter brands, getting one directly from mazda to see if that helps at all. What really stumps me is the fact I had no warning signs on this one, it did not grind at all or anything, just went to start it and boom it was gone.

I have another thread about it being hard to start when it is cold could that have anything to do with this? I have been turning the key 3-4 times to prime the pump and it seems to help considerably with starting when cold. I checked the two water sensors right near the thermostat and both seemed to be working however i do not know the resistance they are suppose to read so they could be off.

so I need some thoughts/ideas
 

kossdust

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Alright I have it solved for those that read this thread

It turns out I some how got two plug wires crossed causing the timing to be off a bit. This made it hard to start taking a starters and what not. I switched the plugs and everything seems to be running much better and I have not had a single problem yet. I can not believe I had my wires crossed and she still ran pretty good.
 

jamesclab

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I would like to put this out there in the hopes that it may help someone. I have been dealing with my new remanufactured starter (from advance a/p) grinding/ kicking back (while attempting to start the truck) for a couple of weeks with it progressively getting worse (2.5L, 5 speed). I have read about ALL KINDS of possible solutions ( bad ground, wrong starter- not meant for a manual, cheap starter, not using shims, and many more.....) but what FINALLY WORKED FOR ME was:

My starter uses 3 bolts to secure it to the transmission. With all the bolts started- and still loose, there is about 1/8th of an inch play moving the starter toward and away from the flywheel. If you let the starter hang naturally when tightening the bolts, it will hang away from the flywheel (about 1/8th of an inch AWAY from the flywheel). I FINALLY tightened the bolts while holding the starter AS CLOSE TO THE FLYWHEEL AS POSSIBLE - AND NOW - NO MORE GRINDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Ranrove

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Ok talked to an old friend of mine today and he said that they make two starters of this engine one being for an automatic and one for the manual and is thinking that maybe I am getting the wrong one.

Any one have a part number or anything like that so I could check?
I own a 1993 Ford Ranger, 3.0 6cyl. automatic. I do not know how to determine if the starter is for a manual or automatic transmission? Do you know how to determine?
 

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