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started engine for the first time since swap and after i hooked the rest of the drive train up it won’t turn over

stamina

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we hooked up everything that was needed to make the engine start, the electrical connectors and transmission with starter, started literally first try with no problems and was run for about 5 minutes before i shut it off, after i put the driveshafts and transfer case in so it could drive, the starter was just clicking, so i jumped the battery and still the same thing, went and checked the starter through the inspection port when someone switch the key and it literally was hitting the flywheel but was not spinning it at all, removed it and grounded it and it was spinning just fine so i tried removing spark plugs and turning it over with a breaker bar and nothing, couldn’t make it turn, it spun and tan fine with no transfer case and driveshafts, could it have something to do with that? and it had 70 pounds of oil pressure on start up so and i primed it before it was put in and with the starter. i have no doubts about the lubrication of the parts in the engine. just confused here i’m am going to remove the belt and see if an accessory seized. i’m just very confused
 


RonD

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I assume clutch pedal was down when trying to start the engine, that would take the trans/transfer case and drive shafts out of possible locked crank

I doubt fan belt could prevent you from turning the engine

Not sure if 5min is enough to seize a dry main bearing, possibly

70psi is high for oil pressure, even with cold oil, could have blocked passages in the block
Cold start at say 1,500 RPMs should be about 25psi maybe 30psi

Oil pressure is like Blood Pressure, too low is bad, too high is bad as well

Oil pressure is the oil the engine can not use at that moment
As the oil flows thru the bearings it reaches its maximum flow rate out of the gaps, and the unneeded oil backs up in the Main Passage by the filter, and that's the oil pressure you see
Oil pressure goes up with RPMs because the pump spins based on engine RPMs, but the bearing flow doesn't change that much because the gaps don't change, so pump increase flow but Main passage flow doesn't change as much so "unneeded oil" pressure goes up
The 70psi can mean no oil was getting out of some of the bearings, so they were running dry
 
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stamina

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I assume clutch pedal was down when trying to start the engine, that would take the trans/transfer case and drive shafts out of possible locked crank

I doubt fan belt could prevent you from turning the engine

Not sure if 5min is enough to seize a dry main bearing, possibly

70psi is high for oil pressure, even with cold oil, could have blocked passages in the block
Cold start at say 1,500 RPMs should be about 25psi maybe 30psi

Oil pressure is like Blood Pressure, too low is bad, too high is bad as well

Oil pressure is the oil the engine can not use at that moment
As the oil flows thru the bearings it reaches its maximum flow rate out of the gaps, and the unneeded oil backs up in the Main Passage by the filter, and that's the oil pressure you see
Oil pressure goes up with RPMs because the pump spins based on engine RPMs, but the bearing flow doesn't change that much because the gaps don't change, so pump increase flow but Main passage flow doesn't change as much so "unneeded oil" pressure goes up
The 70psi can mean no oil was getting out of some of the bearings, so they were running dry
i checked oil was getting to all of the internals throughout the rebuild, as i put it together i checked, even when it was down tot he block, and it was about 65 psi 70 was a bit of an exaggeration, and right before i put it in i spun the pump til it got to the top of the motor, and it didn’t stop itself i turned the engine off with the key, and no i did not do it with the clutch pedal in as i left the starter bypass auto switch in to avoid having to do that. but i will try it. i also checked main clearances and piston ring gaps they were in spec perfect.i used 10w-30 conventional for that first start for 5 minutes then changed oil and filter, made no weird noises sounded perfect.
 
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RonD

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Hope its not a spun main bearing
If run long enough spun main can stop the engine, but not always, engine won't seize until it cools down
What happens is the overheated softer bearing material welds itself to journals as it cools off, and engine is seized at that time
There would have been no way for you to know that was happening
Only basis for my comments was the high oil pressure at first start up
 

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Maybe it has something to do with the shortcut you took trying to put the key back in the crank after putting the crank gear on?
 

stamina

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Maybe it has something to do with the shortcut you took trying to put the key back in the crank after putting the crank gear on?
LOL highly doubt it.
 

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I wouldn't rule it out...

You simply can't just grind stuff so it fits when you can't properly assemble an engine.

It rarely works well...
 

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Any update?
 

stamina

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Any update?
gonna pull the motor again here soon and see what happened, in the process of first startup my buddy pulled the throttle cable from the engine bay and it volcanoed all of the water out of the system and the temperature spiked very quickly before i shut it off, by the time i hit the killswitch the gauge read about 195
 

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Might have missed it, but did you try turning the crank manually with a hand tool?

Sounds like you might have effed the pooch somewhere along the way....This is why I hate engine rebuilds lol. If you got the motor out already, I'd pull the oil pan first and see what's going on down there.
 

stamina

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Might have missed it, but did you try turning the crank manually with a hand tool?

Sounds like you might have effed the pooch somewhere along the way....This is why I hate engine rebuilds lol. If you got the motor out already, I'd pull the oil pan first and see what's going on down there.
yep two of the rod bearings were toasted cylin der 2 and 4
 

stamina

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I wouldn't rule it out...

You simply can't just grind stuff so it fits when you can't properly assemble an engine.

It rarely works well...
woodruff key held up very nicely, i think the timing chain gears are designed for the 5/8in keyway crankshaft and not the 1.25in, and so i cut the woodruff key to a 5/8in size and it’s perfect
 

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I wouldn't rule it out...

You simply can't just grind stuff so it fits when you can't properly assemble an engine.

It rarely works well...
Funny story, one of my lower functioning friends had a need to rebuild a 400 V8 in a dent side pickup years ago. He had some dude go through it...bored out, heads rebuilt, the whole works. The dude was a student at the local tech school and considered himself an expert machinist, however, I got wind that he couldn't make the crank bearings fit so they took a belt sander to them and both said "It'll be fine." I warned them... Knocked like a bastard right away. I still get the giggles thinking about that incident.
 

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It's your engine... you can certainly do whatever want.

Saying it's perfect... is a stretch.

So you're saying you have the wrong crank gear for the crank and having to cut the key to install it and now you have 1/2 inch more keyway then you have key is perfect.

Do as you wish... but I would properly fix the cobbled mess you call perfect.
 

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