Standard speaker sizes?

[gstuartw]

I own an '88 B2 XLT but am currently away from the vehicle and when I am I don't have the time or tools to take panels off etc for simply investigation. I want to order new speakers for it all around yet maintain a stock look, ie no cuts in dash, door panels etc.

Can anyone tell me the likely sizes of the stock speakers in my vehicle?

Thanks

Stuart

 

[RangerNumber3]

Check the Crutchfield site. It can tell you the speaker size.

 

[Dhaile]

They are 4" in the dash and 5X7 in the rear I know. The 4" in the dash will fit, but the mounting is not the same. There is a guy on etsy that sells a 3D printed adapter for the dash. Just find and buy them. You'll cuss, stomp your feet and have to fabricate something anyway. They're well worth the $15. If you have door speakers, I can't speak to that size. I just did them all around on mine. But mine doesn't have door speakers. Crutchfield will say that 6x9 fits in the rear. They're not wrong, but I had to trim a lot of plastic and use my foot wedge to get them in.

 

[gstuartw]

Check the Crutchfield site. It can tell you the speaker size.

Thanks. Unfortunately while Crutchfield has the option to enter all pertinent info to then filter choices all of the choices for door speakers are listed as requiring modifications. The vehicle is new to me and like I mentioned, not where I am so I can't even confirm if it has door speakers. (Yeah, sounds silly) I'm just hoping someone more up on the specifics of the B2 sound system might offer experience. Again, thanks for your reply.

 

[gstuartw]

Thanks. I had trouble at first but rather than searching in Etsy I searched Google. I've ordered them!

Stuart

 

[Peter Griffin]

Here's my Crutchfield order for my '88 BII with the Etsy speaker adapters. I did NOT get door speakers because they didn't come with them and while you can make them fit I'll get a buttload of sound with just this HU and 4-speakers.

Head Unit: Alpine UTE-73BT (includes their free installation gear/instructions shown)

Dash Speakers: Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx (Speaker adapters from Etsy also shown. These 4-inch speakers are high efficiency and crush mids/highs. I've added them to my daughter's Jeep JL Willys and my Challenger Hellcat and they ROCK!)

Rear/Mid panel: JBL 8621F (These 6x8s likewise are high efficiency and will work well with just the head unit's integrated amplifier).

All is $325 or so. I'm doing a lot of sound mat/proofing which should help this relatively modest system sound even better. It's perfect for streaming audio and Bluetooth for phone calls. I was going to add a powered subwoofer (likely under the seat) but I want to see how this sounds first.

 

[gstuartw]

@Peter Griffin
Wow! Your thorough reply is much appreciated. Your price point is great too! I’m not much of an audiophile and want to retain the stock look as much as possible so I went with the Secret Audio hidden car stereo kit from Classic Car Stereos. As much as your whole setup cost but I haven’t seen anything like the unit I bought for less.

Though it comes with a wired remote control to mount to the dash I’ll store that in the console and control it with my phone and either stream content when I have cell or music stored on the phone.

The B2 will be kept in the mountains of interior Mexico where I can often be out of range of decent signals or internet connectivity so Bluetooth with my phone is the plan.

Thanks again!

Stuart

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yup, the 83-88 Rangers and Bronco II didn’t get door speakers, just dash and rear. The 89+ didn’t get dash speakers, just door speakers and rear. Well, I’m not even sure if regular cab Rangers got rear speakers either way, but you get the idea.

If you really want door speakers, there’s two ways to go about it (well, technically three if you count replacing the doors). One is to modify your doors and door trim panels. The other is to modify your door and use 89-92 door trim panels which to the unknowing would appear entirely stock. Something I have kicked around before with my 88. I was also considering building a fiberglass panel for the hatch to tuck a pair of 10” subs in there and try for a stock-ish appearance. Still haven’t got that far with the project, but I might have to see about picking up some of those dash speaker adapters now that I know they exist…

 

[Fast Eddie]

EDIT - DISREGARD used another search. Thanks anyway.


Does anyone know the size for a 2004? I searched and it's buried under something else or doesn't exist? I took the front door panel off and it measures 5.5 x 8. Is that a 5x8 or 6x8? Both are available. Rears are 5 x 7 (or at least seem to be?).

 

[Bgunner]

I can't speak for the 2004 but the 93-94, probably the newer ones also till the doors changed, have a 6x8 in the door and 6x8 in the rear.

Thinking out loud here but it would be nice to have this info in the tech section.

 

[Fast Eddie]

going to give these a shot. Can pick them tomorrow and always had good luck with Pioneer equipment.
Pioneer TS-800M 6" x 8" - 4-way 350 W Max Power | 11mm Tweeter and 11mm Super Tweeter and 1-5/8" Cone Midrange | Coaxial Speakers (Sold in Pairs) - Walmart.com

 

[Bgunner]

going to give these a shot. Can pick them tomorrow and always had good luck with Pioneer equipment.
Pioneer TS-800M 6" x 8" - 4-way 350 W Max Power | 11mm Tweeter and 11mm Super Tweeter and 1-5/8" Cone Midrange | Coaxial Speakers (Sold in Pairs) - Walmart.com

I believe these are the same ones I purchased for my truck. they sound great but I have a Sony Xplode head unit and not the factory one so your milage may be different.

Just an FYI the RMS on those speakers are 80 watts and more than enough to make you go def with an aftermarket head unit. they lack in the bass but great in the mid and high range.

 

[franklin2]

It's very difficult to get bass from these little rangers and BII's because they way they mounted the speakers. For instance my Bronco II rear speakers are 6x8 and I can tell they are trying to produce some bass, but they are just mounted in the floppy plastic interior sides of the Bronco. You can''t have good solid bass if the speaker does not have a solid mounting. The old "for every action, there is a equal and opposite reaction". The speaker frame needs to sit still when reproducing heavy bass frequencies.

 

[Fast Eddie]

Kinda figured that. The speaker configuration, and mounts as you suggest (cheap plastic) hardly produce the foundation you need for decent acoustics. I may put some insulation in there (not too much) to help with that.

Back in the late 70's and early 80's Scott made 3-way stereo speakers that had a small amount of fiberglass insulation in them. A pioneer head and 100w graphic equalizer and a well produced cassette - with the Scott's mounted in the rear of my Capri - had a sound that would impress the pickiest audiophile at the time.

In my case, the speakers are 18 yrs old and buzz now. I think they dry-rotted in the torrent heat. I don't listen to my music loud anymore. Same music, just at a different volume, admittedly turning it up here and there I just want to play music again without the buzz and a little better-than-factory sound.

I ordered some harness adapters from Sleaze-amon and will grab two sets of speakers tomorrow, then find a cool day to do the work. No shade here, so you have to be patient.

Thanks for setting performance expectations. Gotta give it a shot and see where I land

 

[franklin2]

The biggest hurdle with car stereos is getting power out of the radio amplifier. You are correct, a home stereo speaker can give very good sound, but it doesn't get the most out of the amplifier because most home speakers are 8 ohms. That is a problem also if you rob the driver's out of a old home set of speakers, most are just 8 ohms. You will not get that extra wattage out of the radio with just a 8 ohm speaker, you need a 4 ohm speaker. If you have plenty of room and speakers, you can parallel two 8 ohm speakers per channel and get 4 ohms, then you will start getting the max the radio has to offer.

You will notice all car stereo speakers are 4 ohms or less.