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Squeeling when I take right turns!


colby450xc

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Any right turn above 10mph causes my left front wheel(drivers side wheel) to make a high pitch squeeling noise when I take right turns. Last fall or winter/whenever I had my rotors turned and replace brake pads. The auto hubs were something of a mystery besides getting them back where they fit. The auto hubs seem to work, as well as normal, but i still get the horrible squeeling during right hand turns.

I mounted the tires myself (treadwright wardens), havent had them balanced yet, nor alignment done. None of the above should cause the squeal. When I did my brakes I installed all new bearings. Do I need to tighten the nut that holds my disk? That is my only guess really,,,,,,,,,,,,,,?:icon_confused:
 


CHKNFKR

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Is it a metal on metal squeal or a tire squeal?
 

straycat

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When you turn the steering wheel with the truck stopped, does it make any kind of noise as well? Does it feel like a vibration in the steering wheel when you are driving it and doing the turn?
 

adsm08

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And are your tires hitting the wheel well when you turn?
 

colby450xc

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Does not happen when the truck is not rolling. Tires do not touch anything besides the pavement. I replaced the wheel bearings and races, I made sure everything was packed with grease (took forever without a bearing packer). Is there a bearing in the knuckle that the front 4x4 axles rides on?
 

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:dunno: Maybe a ball joint
 

straycat

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Why are we starting up this thread again?? This guy should have had this crap fixed by know...this was started last December???????
 

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I was just thinking about this. Are you sure it isn't a tire rubbing? I had a situation just like this in my Ranger a few years ago. I hit a ditch and ever since it made a nasty noise when taking left hand turns above about 10 MPH. But if you would turn the wheels sitting still it wouldn't hit.

I never did get it fixed. I just took the running boards off and that opened up the wheel well enough to stop the rub.
 

colby450xc

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The tires only rub when I am at full lock and compress the suspension pulling out a driveway over a curb. After I made the thread I replaced the wheel bearings that were only months old. When I did them the first time with rotor and pad replacement I thought I only had to tighten the lock nut down finger tight like some 2wd trucks. The second time I did the bearing I tightened the nut until I felt drag when spinning the rotor then back it off to the next place I could put the key in.

The squeal was not noticeable after that, but the last couple of weeks it has been getting worse. Im gonna have to dig into again this weekend or I am afraid something will happen leaving me with a locked up wheel. I think the actual squeal is coming from the rotor and pads when the wheel tilts from a bearing or something being loose or messed up. Isn't there a spindle needle type bearing in there. I am very familiar with the 97 and older 2wd front ends. I havent messed with my current truck much because it is from up north and everything below the rockers is an ugly brown and orange rusty mess, so I dread putting a wrench to it. Every damn bolt head rounds off even with the correct size 6 point sockets. I had to resort to hammering the next size smaller socket onto the caliper bolts to the freaking things off the first time I did a brake job on this truck.

It is my fault for buying a 95,000 mile truck and not thinking about the fact that it is from Minnesota or Michigan. I drove 4 hours to buy the truck, saw some surface rust and figured it may be a good deal because it was a $1500 under blue book with a clean body and working 4wd.
 
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colby450xc

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BTW, The treadwright Wardens only measured out to 30" diameter brand spankin new. The same size as the tires they replaced, so no rubbing issues besides when suspension mildly compressed at full lock. The sound is metal to metal. The locking nut was tightened until there was noticeable drag on the rotor, then backed off to the next point the key would fit. I do not have a socket big enough to fit my torque wrench to tell the ft lbs but if I need to I will buy one. I dont think the problem is in the wheel bearings or tires rubbing. I know the sound when a tire is rubbing, it is nothing like what I am hearing.
 

straycat

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BTW, The treadwright Wardens only measured out to 30" diameter brand spankin new. The same size as the tires they replaced, so no rubbing issues besides when suspension mildly compressed at full lock. The sound is metal to metal. The locking nut was tightened until there was noticeable drag on the rotor, then backed off to the next point the key would fit. I do not have a socket big enough to fit my torque wrench to tell the ft lbs but if I need to I will buy one. I dont think the problem is in the wheel bearings or tires rubbing. I know the sound when a tire is rubbing, it is nothing like what I am hearing.
Dude!! Take the damn thing to a shop. You are driving something that might be a safety concern and this thread started way back last December.......
 

colby450xc

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Dude!! Take the damn thing to a shop. You are driving something that might be a safety concern and this thread started way back last December.......
Ya........not gonna take it to a shop. I'd rather do it three times myself than pay a shop $500 to find out what it is. It's getting torn apart this weekend.
 

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I had the same thing with my truck. Discovered a small piece of wood stuck between the dust shield an the front left disc.

Squealed more during RH turns.

Remove wood, drive.
 

robertc1024

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Or you could have done something stupid like I did. I put the anti-rattle clip on the calipers backwards and after the break pads wore down some, it would squeel too - in my case, mostly on left hand turns. It worked like a break pad squeeler, but when there was 8/10 'ths left on the pads.
 

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