Sport Trac not starting

[rumblecloud]

It's an 02 4.0L auto. Been sitting for about a year. 50/50 test starts with spray, then dies. Was at about a 1/4 tank. Added 5 gallons hoping to negate and bad fuel issues.

So where should I look to resolve fuel delivery issues?
Thanks in advance
R

 

[RonD]

Open engine fuse box and locate Fuel Pump Relay

Should be a micro-relay(Rangers) looks like this on under side: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/micro-automotive-relay-wiring.jpg

Can be Mini-relay and looks like this: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/mini-automotive-relay-wiring-840x.jpg

In either slots 30 and 87 power the fuel pump, normally the computer activates this relay to power the fuel pump but YOU can as well
Use a jumper wire to connect 30 and 87, and fuel pump should start, key on or off doesn't matter
You should hear it running in the tank
If not check Fuel Pump fuse, in the same fuse box, or use volt meter test light and test 30 and 87 one should have 12v full time

If 12v is there and no noise from tank, its not looking good, lol
Next stop is inertia switch in passenger side foot well under/behind glove box
Has a RED button on the top, press it down if its up

If still no fuel pump noise then you will be dropping the tank

There should also have been a CEL coming on IF(big if) there was no 12volts to the fuel pump in normal operation
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0233 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Intermittent
either means no or intermittent 12volts to pump

 

[sgtsandman]

Also look for brown discoloring on the fuel pump fuse. While not a common problem, it happens. The fuse will otherwise look fine. I replaced that after spending a day troubleshooting and replacing the fuse fixed the problem. It will save you from pulling the bed or dropping the tank for no reason if everything else checks out.

 

[rumblecloud]

Hey thanks for the feedback.
I'll check these things later today. The battery is dead now too so that's another issue.

Sorry for not posting this in the Ford Explorer & Sport Trac forum I was not in my right mind.

 

[sgtsandman]

Hey thanks for the feedback.
I'll check these things later today. The battery is dead now too so that's another issue.

Sorry for not posting this in the Ford Explorer & Sport Trac forum I was not in my right mind.

It’s the correct engine section. Close enough.

 

[rumblecloud]

Well..I am getting battery voltage at 87. I say "battery voltage" because as I mentioned the battery is pretty much a goner. Just connecting cables from my F150 to the Sport Trac I get what the battery voltage that's being transferred through the cables from the F150. - something like 12.06 at the terminals and at 87. When I start the F150 the voltage jumps to 13.60.
Jumpering the two terminals, I get no sound from the fuel pump -- but I can't hear anyway, especially with the F-150 running. If I shut it off, I'm not sure 12.06 is enough to trick the pump into working. I don't recall ever being able to hear the fuel pump -- not like in the Ranger -- even when it was working.
The inertia switch was fine.
All the fuses look fine as well -- no yellowing.
I'm going to purchase a new battery tomorrow, which I was going to do eventually anyway, and get a couple of fuses just because and go through the tests again.

If I have to drop the tank so be it. I'll just need to suck as much fuel out of it as I can. In the event that I do have to go that route, I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions.

Thanks. I'll post as soon as I get more info.

 

[RonD]

Yes the 12v is plenty of voltage to run the fuel pump
So don't need the F150 running
Unhook Negative battery cable from the dead battery and leave jumper connected to cable end, and you will get full F150 battery voltage engine off, 12.3 to 12.8volt

The dead battery is SUCKING DOWN the voltage from F150

If you want to try and charge the dead battery leave negative cable unhooked and move jumper to negative battery terminal then start F150
On any vehicle after 1993 or so you want to avoid jumping entirely, lol
But if you need to for STARTING then never have jumping vehicle running, key should be off
You can FUBAR both charging systems that way