Spin-on gasoline fuel filter

[mikkelstuff]

Any one convert there Ranger for a spin-on gasoline fuel filter?

 

[RangerJoey]

Never knew that was a thing. Just curious why though?

 

[Dirtman]

Sure would be easier to change then dealing with those stupid press connect fittings...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Never knew that was a thing. Just curious why though?

It is for diesel, I have never heard of one for gasoline engines though.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Yes, easier to change than those stupid press connect fittings AND with the filter stuck up in the frame rail on my 2002 Ranger. Mine looks like someone already messed with it and had to patch the lines.

I do see the spin-on filters and bases for gasoline on Amazon.

 

[88workcar]

Marine applications use a Racor, I install them often

 

[mikkelstuff]

Back to spin-on fuel filters. I see NAPA sells a nice looking general purpose spin-on fuel filter mount (NAPA 4770, same as WIX 24770). I see this generally used for diesel fuel. Any chance this can be used for pressured gasoline in a fuel injected vehicle? The central thread is a 1"-14.

Looks like a Fram P1105 uses the 1"-14 thread and can be used for either gasoline or diesel.

I ask because someone has really buggered up the connections to the fuel filter in my 2002 Ranger and I need to fix this.

 

[adsm08]

I don't see an issue with it, as long as it meets the micron requirements.

 

[RobbieD]

Out of curiosity, does anybody have specs for the OEM stock inline fuel filter on a Ford EFI system?

I spent a few minutes looking through a few Ford manuals and drew a blank.

So I checked replacement fuel filters on RockAuto for the three EFI trucks I have (1990 & 1994), and the Motorcraft replacements (two models) included this info:
" . . . withstand up to six times normal operating pressure . . . Capture 98% of particles as small as 8 microns".

The other aftermarket brands, the few which listed any specs, all were rated at 10 micons.

So . . . does anybody have the Ford specs? Or, if someone wants to convert their truck to a spin-on, what specs would be reasonable?

#1 Particle filtration size rating - no larger than 10 micron?

#2 Max operating pressure rating - I think an EFI system reaches about 40PSI maximum; so what would a reasonable max pressure rating for replacement hardware?

# Flow rate - I think I saw an aftermarket replacement list "1 GPM" as a flow rate spec (seems low?). Otherwise, I have no idea what a desired minimum flow rate would be.

Granted, converting to a spin-on would likely get you a slightly larger filter and perhaps larger fuel line fitting sizes, so I suspect that flow rate wouldn't be an issue. The max pressure, however, seems kind of important- a fuel leak can be a major bummer, and lead to having a REALLY bad day.

Thoughts, anyone?

 

[Dirtman]

Flow rate should be fine, it's surface area vs micron size and a spin on will have a much larger surface area. Pressure I dunno, diesels make pressure after the fuel filter gasoline engines make pressure at the pump in the tank. Diesel pressure is higher but its sucking not pushing through the filter.

Pre-1998 pumps make more than 40psi but the excess pressure is spilled off by the FPR. Post 1998 the regulator is part of the pump so the pump is consistently pushing around 60psi. I've seen the regulator fail and bring pressure up to almost 90. So I'd want something with a working pressure above that. 120psi or more?

 

[91stranger]

1" thread is pretty big compared to what comes stock. You would need to get creative if you went that route. I wouldn't see a bigger fuel filter causing any issues, pressure doesn't change just because the filter is bigger. Pump will stay on until it reaches pressure so at most the pump would just run a second or two longer I would suspect. Why not just fix the current filter? How bad are your lines? Are you still driving it or is it parked due to this issue?

 

[Dirtman]

I think he means it's 1" thread for the filter not the actual fuel line fittings...

 

[Uncle Gump]

A bunch of spin on filters have an internal bypass to prevent blowing the canister. Not exactly sure of the threshold of the bypass. But you certainly want a full flow filter... 0 bypass.

I know if I was going to do something along these lines... I would be looking to the Marine world for options.

 

[RobbieD]

A bunch of spin on filters have an internal bypass to prevent blowing the canister. Not exactly the threshold of the bypass. But you certainly want a full flow filter... 0 bypass.

I know if I was going to do something along these lines... I would be looking to the Marine world for options.

I thought that Marines only smoked unfiltered cigarettes.

Sorry, Uncle Gump. That's actually a good suggestion.

As far as the original poster's issue, there are fuel line repair kits, for Ford EFI systems (check Dorman, for one), and the (older) Ford shop manuals do cover how to repair and splice plastic fuel lines. So at least that's one possible option for him.

Where my concern lies, is that my newest trucks are 26 years old now. Some direct replacement parts for these, and my older trucks, are getting hard to find. If and when, I reach a point where I wish to replace the entire fuel delivery system, what options are there, for what cost? Direct replacement parts - trust (and pay for) 20+ year old NOS, or take the aftermarket reproduction risk? Or, (which is the direction that I'd like to look at here) is it a viable option to make up a proper replacement fuel delivery system using current, quality universal parts?

For what it's worth, I'm contemplating, one day, a total rebuild / restoration of my '94 2.3L SC Ranger. Thus my curiosity.

 

[Uncle Gump]

That's the million dollar question...

I think quality aftermarket parts are more vulnerable then factory replacement in terms of lifespan.