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specific heat damage?


9723

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...wasn't one on the atk website anymore. I didn't call them about the 2.3 in my Ranger though....just about the head.

My Ranger has about 150k miles and I counting on the bottom in being quite good...seems like it is. I got it at 104k in 2001.

Waiting on another compression tester tomorrow. The one I have, I modified the extension adapter many years ago for a pair of motorcycles.....got'a have that extension to get to the plug hole, can't do it with the rubber hose by itself.


I'm nearly 600 miles from the nearest aaa office, so I filed a BBB complaint every time I got mail from them. About 40 complaints in 1.5 years after I quit there service.



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9723

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Results

I've got about 139-140 psi on all. I'm at 4700 feet altitude.

According to the second calculator on this site:

http://www.mide.com/products/slamstick/air-pressure-altitude-calculator.php

..which I set at:

166 psi
61 degrees
4700 ft.

I'm getting 139.77

That seems to indicate I've done nothing to my engine at all.
I got a little less (136) on #1, which I did last and I expect my battery was running down a little, so it on the trickle charger.

What I did notice is some of the plugs (all were clean), were opened up. I wonder if the heat could do that?...but I'm going to set them again. They're all Motorcraft platinum....and I've never changed the side under the manifolds. Maybe I should take the time to do that, too.

I don't think I can justify getting a new head. Is it possible the only damage was to the plugs?

Note: I did one plug at a time, leaving the others in, while testing.

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RonD

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Numbers would be higher with one plug out of each cylinder.
Better crank speed.

Also hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking, that does 2 things, allows full air flow with throttle plate open and fuel injectors would be shut off.
 

9723

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Numbers would be higher with one plug out of each cylinder.
Better crank speed.

Also hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking, that does 2 things, allows full air flow with throttle plate open and fuel injectors would be shut off.


Yes, I did that (the pedal to the floor). How much higher could it go. Not much higher, at 4700 ft. altitude. That's like 166 at sea level.

139 psi at 4700'
equals:
166 psi at sea level.


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RonD

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2.3l in 1996/7 should be 9.4:1 ratio
9.4 x 18 = 169.2

18 = sea level pressure + mechanical engine compression, some use 18.3, I think 18 is better for engines with some miles on them

4,000ft above sea level would use multiplier .8881
5,000ft use .8617

169.2 x .8617 = 145.8

139 is close though and could be accounted for in slower crank speed with all spark plugs installed

My 4.0l is at 300k, it has 9.0:1 ratio so 162 is expected, I am at sea level, or close enough, last time I tested engine got 158 to 165
 
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9723

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So the calculator I used giving me 166 at sea level from 139.71 at 4700 ft. is right on the button.

The number one cylinder came out about 2 lbs. lower psi. Nothing to be concerned about.

The only thing at all I've found, is the plug gap on 3 and 4 cylinders were at .052

I do have Accell super coil packs so that shouldn't matter but I set all the plugs at .046.....the passenger side. I still haven't figured out how to get at the drivers side plugs.

I've read and seen lots of videos on that, but I can't get at the #4 plug wire with anything I have.

It's running very well though, so I can't say why it seemed slower, going up the big hills on I-10, than usual.


It's pretty amazing. I might have driven with temp at the top of high, for as much as 3 minutes....then I heard the pinging and saw the gauge. I didn't hear the pinging because the top of my shift knob rattles a bit loudly. I think I'll pull it off and fix that.


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Mazda

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I use this to get the plugs in and out. Works wonders. Can do all 8 in about 30 mins now.



And this to get the plug wires off.



I just did mine a few week ago and this time I just got a stool and laid on the motor and pulled the wire off the number 4 plug. I hurt my fat for a few minutes but worked.

Really nice that you don't need a new head.

Bryan
 

Mark_88

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Yes, hopefully it is not damaged. I'm pretty sure I drove for several minutes with the needle pegged out the first time...it definitely didn't run right after that...and the smoke started soon after that.

Not a bad idea to obtain a head and have it ready to go if you ever need it...at one point I had a spare of everything major that could break on my 1988 2.0 and more often than not found myself using my spares.

But...I'm sure you will keep an eye on things...

I wanted to put a red light on my dash for the temp gauge because it is quite easy to not look down at the gauges for long periods of time...especially in rough weather...might do that since I happen to have an extra light where the alarm system was at one time...just a matter of figuring out how to hook one up...
 

9723

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And this to get the plug wires off.
I just got a stool and laid on the motor and pulled the wire off the number 4 plug.
Where did you find the long pliers?

I have fairly long wire pullers, but not long enough. When you open them, the handles hit the manifold.

I might be able to search for them, but the search term is not working to find the ones that'll work.

What are these pliers called?

My plug wires don't have the handles on them that I've seen in some videos.

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Mazda

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I bought those so long ago. Probably 15 years ago. I believe I got them at Pep Boys. I use them all the time to get the SP boots off and also works really well as a hose puller.

If I see any when I'm out the next few days I will let you know.
 

9723

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Ok, I've got these two on the way.....



...and I have high hopes for these, from the UK, though I may want to shorten the barrel at the end.




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