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Speaker/Amplifier help needed!

PRanger

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Okay so I want to run 4 kicker ks68s and a kicker kx350w 4 channel amp. I already have 2 ks68s in the rear. Now I've read that you should run components up front and coaxial in the rear.. Guess it sounds better, but tbh I think the ks 68s in the rear already sound really good. Is this true and why? I also have a Sony head unit rated 52wx4 and the speakers recommend 60w minimum 180w max. The amp is rated at 350w with a max of 395w so it's about 85-95w per speaker. So will I notice a big change in quality or loudness? Or will it be pretty unnoticeable? I know everybody has different stuff but anybody trying 4 kickers and an amp I'd love tour opinion.

Thanks
 


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PanamaExpat

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Why are you buying Kicker.... Isn't that flea market audio stuff? Why not JL Audio or Rockford Fosgate or MB Quart?
 

rangergi

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I have the same Sony hu you do :headbang: and was actually looking at doing almost the exact same thing. The amp might have more of an effect on "ear fatigue", While that is a very contraversial topic thats all im saying on it. Also the hu only has options for the rear speakers and sub out to an amp. I don't nessacarily think they will be better, but they will be louder. If you want "better" sounding music, get a sub. It highlights the mids that your 2 way speaker may not hit, and it will get those lows that the speakers probably don't put out ither. Finally, sound deaden and seal the doors for better sound as well.
 

PRanger

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Why are you buying Kicker.... Isn't that flea market audio stuff? Why not JL Audio or Rockford Fosgate or MB Quart?
Thanks for the help on MY questions. Should I just answer yours with more questions too?
 

509lifted

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pranger i think he is being like that cause ur in the wrong disccusion there is a forum for this down the list
 

PRanger

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Haha well sorry for a miscatergorized post, but I buy what I can afford. Not all of us can go out and buy$1000 systems. I got my set of 6x8s for $50 off cl and I just got the 350 4channel amp off cl too for $120 both brand new. And for just 2 aftermarket speakers in the rear it definitely sounds a hell of a lot better than before
 

PRanger

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Now I really need to figure out of I should or could put a 6.5 in component speakers in the door or just do 6x8s and have no hassle
 

509lifted

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well i will tell u right now walmart just started selling kicker and u can get the stuff u listed for the same prices that u listed and thats with a 1 year warranty so u didnt get a real good deal, u can get alpine for the same price and have better quality. but u got what u got so i will tell u this if u put the 6.5s in front and have the 6x8s in back u will have alot better sound even better if they are all hooked to the amp and its tuned properly
 

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Now I really need to figure out of I should or could put a 6.5 in component speakers in the door or just do 6x8s and have no hassle
Sorry if I was a bit rude on my first post. I am an audio freak and love big sound in my vehicles.

In all reality that is a good question. A lot of whether you want to use components or not depends largely on the interior layout of the vehicle. Here is the layout I am planning for my 94 B4000. I already have a JBL dual 12" subwoofer cabinet with a Sony1200 watt amp. For the factory pair in the extended cab MB Quart ONX157 6X8 2 ways and for the doors and cab front MB Quart PVL 268 component. In my SUV that had the woofer cab installed I had JL Audio 6X9 3 ways in the rear and Crossfire 5.25 2 ways in the doors. The system sounds great but is missing a bit in the high end because the tweeters are down near the floor. I have a friend with a Mercedes running the MB Quart components and they sound spectacular with all the sound in your face due to the tweeters being in the dash. The speakers in the SUV still sound good if you remove the crossover and just run them on the Sony 4 channel amp. In the B4000 I would like to run a McIntosh MC224 for the 4 MB Quart arrays. Whatever you do make sure you have enough alternator to keep everything supplied well. Dual batteries is nice not sure if boomer caps are worth it though. I can't tell the difference with or without if you have adequate wiring. I recommend #2 stranded copper for your main power feeds directly connected from the batteries to the amps. Don't forget to fuse them though as cables that size create fire really fast if something shorts.

And people wonder why I am going deaf at the young age of 51.
 
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killj0y

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My credo
Fix it till its broke!
Also speakers with better sensitivity and properly sized for your setup will do better. Your basing all your calculations off the wrong numbers. You're listing off peak numbers not. Rms which is the number to go by. Most likely your head unit is rated at 14-22 rms per channel that is way to underpowered for speakers asking for 60+ rms. Just saying, so look for speakers better suited for that power range or you might be disappointed with the sound. Or get an amp for the speakers too. What's the rms of the amp? Does it match up with the rms of the sub? The worst thing you can really do is underpower a sub it will in time kill it prematurely.


Edit: I reread your post and see your gonna do a 4 channel amp well find out the rms for each channel. and go by that. you'll probably be fine though.
 
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PRanger

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Sorry but Walmart is a solid 75 mile round trip but may have been worth it if I was buying groceries too!

Anyways I'm just gonna rock what I got!:icon_hornsup: I'm not interested in a sub just upgrading speakers from stock. the amp rms specs are 4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 90 watts x 4 chan.
It's a zx350.4
 

PRanger

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I could still get what I've got into it and get a bigger, better amp.

I haven't installed the amp or bought speakers for the front yet
 

509lifted

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if u get a sub ever just get a mono block d amp that has two rcas and run both amps
 

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