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Spark plug gapping - How it affects timing - How to gap when burning oil


franklin2

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Did you say what ignition setup you are using? Stock with the computer? Converted to a DSII distributor? If DSII, what ignition module are you using, DSII or HEI?

I can tell you if you converted to DSII and are using a rebuilt distributor from Cardone, they are junk. I ended up having to rebuild mine. I just re-installed it the other day and have it running pretty good now. I have been running the stock computer TFI distributor for the last year, with just locked timing. Believe it or not, it runs sort of ok like this, enough to get to work and back.
 


franklin2

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For things Ive left off. The EGR is gone. Theres a block off plate with a gasket under it. I used a OEM style EGR gasket for it. I was thinking about removing it to replace the gasket in case it was leaking
If it was leaking, it should have showed up when you sprayed brake cleaner everywhere.
 

MadMax_636

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Did you say what ignition setup you are using? Stock with the computer? Converted to a DSII distributor? If DSII, what ignition module are you using, DSII or HEI?

I can tell you if you converted to DSII and are using a rebuilt distributor from Cardone, they are junk. I ended up having to rebuild mine. I just re-installed it the other day and have it running pretty good now. I have been running the stock computer TFI distributor for the last year, with just locked timing. Believe it or not, it runs sort of ok like this, enough to get to work and back.
Im using the Duraspark and HEI. Hopefully I dont have any issues with my dizzy as I have zero idea of how to rebuild one haha
 

MadMax_636

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If it was leaking, it should have showed up when you sprayed brake cleaner everywhere.
Tonight I ravaged my garage for a can of brake clean and couldnt find anything.... So tomorrow im gonna get my plugs replaced and get a few cans
 

franklin2

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Im using the Duraspark and HEI. Hopefully I dont have any issues with my dizzy as I have zero idea of how to rebuild one haha
This is what I am using, and after I rebuilt the distributor I made a big discovery. I was going to make a thread about it on the board, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I have a book on distributors, and it mentioned something about phasing with a magnetic pickup like the DSII uses. I also noticed when I pulled the DSII setup about a year ago the terminals in the distributor cap where all "used" but all to one side of the terminal. Like it was firing early when the rotor came around. That's when I read in the book that the way you put the wires on the module matter. Of course on the DSII module this is already setup. But on the homemade HEI, it's not.

When I put the rebuilt DSII back in it the other day, I noticed it didn't quite run right and sometimes wanted to backfire. I kept messing with it, and then remembered the phasing thing. I had marked the wires to the module before taking them off a year ago, and had put them back the same. With nothing to lose I swapped the two wires going from the DSII distributor to the HEI module. The other wire is just ground. Night and day difference. This really does matter.

I will try to remember to look at how the wires are hooked up now and post it. I do remember the HEI module I have has one narrow terminal and one wide terminal. I will see which color DSII distributor wires I have on which terminal and post it.

Or you can just swap yours and see what happens. It will be better or worse.
 

MadMax_636

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This is what I am using, and after I rebuilt the distributor I made a big discovery. I was going to make a thread about it on the board, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I have a book on distributors, and it mentioned something about phasing with a magnetic pickup like the DSII uses. I also noticed when I pulled the DSII setup about a year ago the terminals in the distributor cap where all "used" but all to one side of the terminal. Like it was firing early when the rotor came around. That's when I read in the book that the way you put the wires on the module matter. Of course on the DSII module this is already setup. But on the homemade HEI, it's not.

When I put the rebuilt DSII back in it the other day, I noticed it didn't quite run right and sometimes wanted to backfire. I kept messing with it, and then remembered the phasing thing. I had marked the wires to the module before taking them off a year ago, and had put them back the same. With nothing to lose I swapped the two wires going from the DSII distributor to the HEI module. The other wire is just ground. Night and day difference. This really does matter.

I will try to remember to look at how the wires are hooked up now and post it. I do remember the HEI module I have has one narrow terminal and one wide terminal. I will see which color DSII distributor wires I have on which terminal and post it.

Or you can just swap yours and see what happens. It will be better or worse.
You lost me in somewhere and this is gonna sound dumb as hell. What do you mean you rebuilt it? Why did you have to rebuild it and what did you do? When I think of rebuilding Im thinking of taking it apart, replacing seals, bushings, and any worn parts. From what you said. You rebuilt it, installed it, and it worked like crap until you swapped wires. If you have photos to share please post them....

I havent removed/reinstalled my dizzy since I first installed it. I did have to swap it once but I had all the wires plugged in as they were. Since you a few others helped me along with doing the conversion.
 
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MadMax_636

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Update: I got it running as it was. Higher than it should be idle sleep and the throttle blades are as low as I could get them. I only found one vacuum “leak”. The PCV valves. When I pinch it is acts like it’s rich at 1 1/2 turns out on both. When I let it breath it affects the timing and when I adjust it even at the slightest. It’s got a weird delay until it changes. When I try to get it around 10-12 it runs alright and then drops. Idk why but it’s annoying the hell out of me.

I’d like to know what’s wrong. If I have to rebuild (which I don’t know how to) my distributor or if something else is a miss. When I checked all my plugs they are black from fuel fouling. I pulled the carb, cleaned it out, idles circuits, and all of that. So idk.

I just want a smooth low idle, smooth off idle, and got have a vacuum leak symptom when starting it back up (having to press the gas to clear it out. It feels like a vacuum leak or a rich mixture.
 

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What are you turning 1.5 turns? It's NOT the PCV valve. 1.5 turns out from bottom sounds like idle air screws. It's been so long since I worked on carbs that I may have the term wrong. But you should adjust those to get highest vacuum. Then adjust timing. Then you may have to go back to readjust the 2 screws again. And back to timing. As well as adjust idle screw so throttle plate isn't open too much.

PS; I was never great at tuning carbs.
 

MadMax_636

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What are you turning 1.5 turns? It's NOT the PCV valve. 1.5 turns out from bottom sounds like idle air screws. It's been so long since I worked on carbs that I may have the term wrong. But you should adjust those to get highest vacuum. Then adjust timing. Then you may have to go back to readjust the 2 screws again. And back to timing. As well as adjust idle screw so throttle plate isn't open too much.
Idle mix screws.

Thats what Ive done. When I turn the idle mix screws out until it changes it starts acting funky. Ive used a smaller vacuum gauge to set the idle screw low enough it does get a signal and high enough it wants to idle.

Next time I mess around with it. I try and record a video of what it does. IDK how ill record the timing light/marks though.
 

MadMax_636

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UPDATE: I tested my brake booster (Pulled the line out of the booster and plugged the check valve with a vacuum gauge) and it seemed to slightly help... but not by much.
I couldnt seem to get the idle to smooth or lower properly. Once it got down to 700-900 rpm range it would drop in vacuum and run like crap.

After watching Thunderhead289 on YouTube he said that squaring off the transfer slots and then increasing the timing to get it to idle and then use the curb screw to fine tune the idle speed. I might have this wrong but if anyone could add some info on it please do.
 

MadMax_636

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UPDATE: I tested my brake booster (Pulled the line out of the booster and plugged the check valve with a vacuum gauge) and it seemed to slightly help... but not by much.
I couldnt seem to get the idle to smooth or lower properly. Once it got down to 700-900 rpm range it would drop in vacuum and run like crap.

After watching Thunderhead289 on YouTube he said that squaring off the transfer slots and then increasing the timing to get it to idle and then use the curb screw to fine tune the idle speed. I might have this wrong but if anyone could add some info on it please do.
Update 2: I found a vacuum leak. It’s on the throttle shaft on the choke side. I sprayed it when it was cold and it affect idle.
 

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So, Ive got my carb tuned in away that the lowest I can get the idle (zero vac signal on ported vacuum) is around 1000-1250 rpm <<<<<<


0 vac on idle is a problem .... when the engine is increasing RPM's the vac should drop ... recheck your hook ups, as walt said, you have something wrong.
Zero vacuum at idle on the spark port, not zero manifold vacuum. You actually want the mixture adjusted for highest manifold vacuum.
 

19Walt93

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That’s what I mean the ported vacuum port.
move sprayed brake clean all around and nothing affects the idle. I was thinking that maybe lower the spark gap. On the 70s pinto and mustang 2 the gap is 35.
Nope, they were .42-.46, .35 was used in the pre Duraspark /breaker points days
 

MadMax_636

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Nope, they were .42-.46, .35 was used in the pre Duraspark /breaker points days
Im only going off what I read on parts stores and rock auto.

EDIT: iPhone edit correct....
 
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