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RangerRyan88
New Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2009
- Messages
- 78
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Inland Empire
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Make / Model
- Mazda
- Engine Size
- 3.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
So I just got done putting in my washer-spacer lift like what's in the tech library, with some of my own modifications from it and thought I would share some things I found out in the process.
First off, the article suggests only going about 3/4" tall with the stack since that's as much as the stock stud will allow. Personally I didn't really see the point of going through the trouble for that little difference. I had a Ranger before and bought one of the 2" poly-spacer kits that came with an extender so you could still fit the spring retainer on over everything else. But I don't have that kit anymore so I decided to make this whole kit myself, mainly just because I like building my own stuff and just to see if I could pull it off. Basically, I got the washer stack put together and JB welded (for now, I'm getting my hands on a welder in the next few days.) and started looking into how to make my own stud extenders.
This was actually a lot easier than I expected it to be, the studs (for those that don't know) are 3/4" diameter with 10 thread count. I went to Home Depot and found 24" rods (only need about 4" of it) and 2" long coupling nuts for around $7. I just used an angle grinder to cut two 2" lengths of the rod and used red Loctite to hold them 3/4" into the coupler nuts (there's a reason for that exact depth). Painted the new extenders just to protect against rust/corrosion and they're ready to go.
This is where I ran into problems. I don't know if anyone else had the same issue, but I thought I would share if you guys want to know. The install went fine, until I got to re-connecting the shocks to the lower mount on the radius arms. Driver's side went on fine, but the passenger side would not reach. I had a floorjack under the knuckle, supporting the truck's weight (theoretically the axle was at "ride height") so I knew this was a big problem. Now I needed to find some longer shocks, or take the lift off. And I was not taking the lift off!!
Now I remembered seeing the F250 shock mount article in the tech section, but didn't want to go through that just for a leveling kit, and I didn't want to spend the money on new "lift" shocks. So I started researching similar vehicles that might have longer shocks factory that mount the same way. What I found was a life saver! Turns out the factory-spec shocks from a '93 F150 mount EXACTLY the same as our Rangers (same stud sizes and all) and are about 2" longer compressed/4" longer extended (also 2" more travel
). Part # at Napa is RR 94276 and they're $29.99 definitely a lot better than aftermarket shocks! And they actually ride way smoother than my old stock shocks did!
If you guys have any questions fire away, I'll get some pictures of the shocks and stuff in the morning when there's light and I was thinking about making a video for the install when I put in my camber bushings (tomorrow?) Anyone think it would be worth making?
Thanks for reading!
First off, the article suggests only going about 3/4" tall with the stack since that's as much as the stock stud will allow. Personally I didn't really see the point of going through the trouble for that little difference. I had a Ranger before and bought one of the 2" poly-spacer kits that came with an extender so you could still fit the spring retainer on over everything else. But I don't have that kit anymore so I decided to make this whole kit myself, mainly just because I like building my own stuff and just to see if I could pull it off. Basically, I got the washer stack put together and JB welded (for now, I'm getting my hands on a welder in the next few days.) and started looking into how to make my own stud extenders.
This was actually a lot easier than I expected it to be, the studs (for those that don't know) are 3/4" diameter with 10 thread count. I went to Home Depot and found 24" rods (only need about 4" of it) and 2" long coupling nuts for around $7. I just used an angle grinder to cut two 2" lengths of the rod and used red Loctite to hold them 3/4" into the coupler nuts (there's a reason for that exact depth). Painted the new extenders just to protect against rust/corrosion and they're ready to go.
This is where I ran into problems. I don't know if anyone else had the same issue, but I thought I would share if you guys want to know. The install went fine, until I got to re-connecting the shocks to the lower mount on the radius arms. Driver's side went on fine, but the passenger side would not reach. I had a floorjack under the knuckle, supporting the truck's weight (theoretically the axle was at "ride height") so I knew this was a big problem. Now I needed to find some longer shocks, or take the lift off. And I was not taking the lift off!!
Now I remembered seeing the F250 shock mount article in the tech section, but didn't want to go through that just for a leveling kit, and I didn't want to spend the money on new "lift" shocks. So I started researching similar vehicles that might have longer shocks factory that mount the same way. What I found was a life saver! Turns out the factory-spec shocks from a '93 F150 mount EXACTLY the same as our Rangers (same stud sizes and all) and are about 2" longer compressed/4" longer extended (also 2" more travel
). Part # at Napa is RR 94276 and they're $29.99 definitely a lot better than aftermarket shocks! And they actually ride way smoother than my old stock shocks did!If you guys have any questions fire away, I'll get some pictures of the shocks and stuff in the morning when there's light and I was thinking about making a video for the install when I put in my camber bushings (tomorrow?) Anyone think it would be worth making?
Thanks for reading!
But these new ones are soo smooth and I think actually added a little MORE height since they aren't 13 years old 
If I had to do it again I'd do it exactly the same!
(Plus I've been looking for an excuse to use that smiley)
