Smelling coolant

[RangerGoolz]

I was smelling coolant in my 86 2.9 and found a radiator leak. New radiator now and most the smell went away but noow I am smelling it again but only when I really step on the throttle. Any ideas here? heater core maybe? I dont see any signs of leaks in the cab. Thought I would ask here before I go searching. thanks

 

[Uncle Gump]

Reach the top of the carpet on the passenger floor board. Get you fingers under the edge and see if it's wet. The defrost will typically fog the windshield up quick if it's leaking too.

 

[RonD]

If you had a radiator leak that means system didn't go up to 15psi pressure
After you fixed that leak system will now have higher pressure and you may have a hose leak
Pin hole leaks are a pain to find
After engine is fully warmed up shut it off and open the hood, move your hand around near the hoses, you can usually feel the hot coolant stream and not see it

 

[RangerGoolz]

I just went and checked. I have the vinyl flooring. I pulled it back and looked everywhere but no signs of drips and nothing wet. Anything else I can check?

 

[Uncle Gump]

The best way is to pressure test it. You may be able to rent one from a parts store. Test it cold and warmed up.

Does the system have pressure in it when run until fully warmed up?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I agree with @RonD check very carefully around the hoses. I've had the same problem with pin hole leaks. Extremely hard to see.

 

[dvdswan]

Look around the engine where water would pool (near coolant hoses, pump, etc.) for signs of green coolant, also check the weep hole on the water pump.

 

[RangerGoolz]

Well I have looked and looked and really dont see any leaks in the cab or the engine bay. It is undoubtedly smelling like coolant but its only after I really step on the gas good while driving. I am worried it might be a head gasket or something of the sorts. I do know that when I was setting base timing the RPMs do fluctuate more than I would like but I thought that was just the nature of the 2.9. I did notice this morning the windows fog pretty bad and the defrost is plenty hot but doesn't really work too well. Isn't that a sign of a heater core leaking? I just cant find the link and this weekend may have to start taking stuff apart to inspect. How hard is it getting at where that core is? Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Uncle Gump]

It's one of the easiest heater cores you ever replace.

Remember also... it could take several cycles after fixing a leak for the residual to go away.

I still say rent a pressure tester...

 

[RangerGoolz]

Any chance on a step by step replacement procedure for the heater core?

 

[RonD]

Remove the hoses from heater core in engine bay

In passenger side of cab look up just behind the "box" part of the glove box and you will see 3 screw heads, they need to come out
Then there are two larger screw heads just above carpet line on this same enclosure that needs to come off, you will see them

Once this cover is off you will see the heater core, if there is moisture inside the enclosure then core is for sure leaking
Good to have a towel down before starting but for sure now

Push the heater core ports back from engine bay side, they can be stuck in the holes in firewall
And pull out the core from cab side
If its full of coolant, and it should be, then some will spill out

Dry out enclosure if it was wet inside, before reassembly

Did find this article: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/heater-core-replacement-1983-1992-ford-ranger/

 

[RangerGoolz]

Awesome RonD thank you tons. I will report back. Prob wont get to it till Friday.

 

[RonD]

Just as a heads up
When you pull off the enclosure in the cab you may see a "drain" at the lower right that goes thru the firewall
I have only done Rangers with AC
This drain is for condensation from the AC Evaporator, so not sure it is on non-AC heater boxes
Its why all vehicles with AC have water dripping out by passenger front wheel, mostly in summer but in winter as well

If seen make sure its clear, can drain
As clogged drain WILL also cause window fogging

And reverse heater hoses at the firewall every 2 years, when coolant is changed, lol, if you follow that schedule
Heater cores do not have an IN or OUT pipe, coolant can flow either way
Over the years debris can come in and get stuck in a smaller passages

Coolant has a high PH and anti-corrosives, it is what prevents the corrosion of metal in the cooling system, so the circulation of coolant to all parts of the engine is what protects the metal
If a passage is blocked, no circulation, so corrosion starts

So reversing the hoses at the firewall every few years will help keep the new heater core cleaner

Once you get the old core out flip it upside down to drain it
Feel the weight of it vs the new one, that extra weight is coolant still stuck in blocked passages

Leave one heater hose off at the firewall, and raise its end up higher than core, then add more coolant to radiator
When coolant start to come out of the new core's open port, its full
Put hose back on
You should remove 1 heater hose at the firewall anytime you are refilling the cooling system, helps get all the air out of the block and heads