Small toothed gear behind ring gear in Ford 8.8 identification

[don4331]

Welp I should've taken the time to spin the gear the other day, that's all it would've took for me to find out what caused it! I believe all this is factory. I think at this point I'm just going to replace the whole carrier + ring gear + tone ring. The spider gears are well rounded. Maybe I'll find a junkyard unit, or maybe I'll go for yukon gears and a positraction carrier. -- on that note, can I just drop in a posi unit from a similar vintage mustang?

Along with that ring tooth being crunched off, the bolt holding the cross pin is also stripped out. I think the best course of action for me is going to be to drill out the pin itself. I think the bolt is too far recessed into the case for me to get a drill to it. I take it the pin is hardened steel? I'll have to invest in some good drill bits for this one.

Of course, I'm open to any other ideas or suggestions.

Edit: My buddy had an idea to cut a slot in the bolt and try to use a flathead to get it out. I guess it's time to buy a dremel!

Carrier for a Mustang with same size axle i.e. both 8.8s would swap in, as would one from F-150, again assuming both 8.8s.

I assume you mean bolt head is rounded on the cross pin bolt - I have a special ?Mac? 6 point box end long handle wrench (I think it was originally called a brake bleeder wrench) specifically for removing cross pin bolts - those bolts are put in with Ford's yellow threadlocker, so I would apply heat 1st with situation you are in.

Another solution is to weld a wrench to the bolt head - my daughter found that a fairly ingenious way to remove a couple bolts with rounded heads.

 

[19Walt93]

Carrier for a Mustang with same size axle i.e. both 8.8s would swap in, as would one from F-150, again assuming both 8.8s.

I assume you mean bolt head is rounded on the cross pin bolt - I have a special ?Mac? 6 point box end long handle wrench (I think it was originally called a brake bleeder wrench) specifically for removing cross pin bolts - those bolts are put in with Ford's yellow threadlocker, so I would apply heat 1st with situation you are in.

Another solution is to weld a wrench to the bolt head - my daughter found that a fairly ingenious way to remove a couple bolts with rounded heads.

I forgot to mention the locktite, good point.

 

[crazyramen]

The only way to put a positraction in is to use a chevy rear end. You often see Chevy performance cars with Ford rear ends after they get sick of breaking their posi over and over. Ford's limited slip is called a Traction Lok and some Torsen units were used, too. There's probably metal throughout the housing now so make sure to do a thorough cleaning if you rebuild it. It's apt to be cheaper to just buy a used rear end, especially if you need a differential along with gears, bearings, and seals.

Sorry I'm not really up to snuff on the different OEM names for clutch based LS diffs. I meant just getting a Ford 8.8 LS carrier and throwing it in after doing a full cleaning of course.

That's a good idea just swapping over rear ends. Going the diff rebuild route would be a good challenge and a new project for me, plus then I know everything is new and not going to break on me. We'll see what I come out with for costs and make the decision based on that. Looks like I can get new Yukon parts for about $500. I assume the whole axle would be a bit cheaper at a pick and pull place. I've got 4.10 gearing right now, and I think I'd like to keep that ratio, so if I did a whole axle swap I guess I gotta make sure to find a 4.10.

Carrier for a Mustang with same size axle i.e. both 8.8s would swap in, as would one from F-150, again assuming both 8.8s.

I assume you mean bolt head is rounded on the cross pin bolt - I have a special ?Mac? 6 point box end long handle wrench (I think it was originally called a brake bleeder wrench) specifically for removing cross pin bolts - those bolts are put in with Ford's yellow threadlocker, so I would apply heat 1st with situation you are in.

Another solution is to weld a wrench to the bolt head - my daughter found that a fairly ingenious way to remove a couple bolts with rounded heads.

I'll definitely try some heat. Unfortunately I don't have access to a welder (machine) or a welder (one who welds,) though that sounds like that'd be the fastest way out. A lack of welders also limits my ability to use explorer axles, unless I want that Carolina lean.

 

[Roert42]

You will need a few specialty tools to rebuild an 8.8. Various Types of bearing pullers, a die grinder, in/lb torque stick, dial indicator, ect.

Some of these things you could probably do without, if you had done it before and had a good feel. Other things you could probably make yourself.

It will probably take a lot longer then doing an axel swap, especially your first time.

 

[crazyramen]

Yeah I've got all the tools I need and I've been doing tons of research with youtube videos, manuals, etc. so I'm probably just going to go for it. It'll be a fun project and a good learning experience.

 

[pjtoledo]

Welp I should've taken the time to spin the gear the other day, that's all it would've took for me to find out what caused it! I believe all this is factory. I think at this point I'm just going to replace the whole carrier + ring gear + tone ring. The spider gears are well rounded. Maybe I'll find a junkyard unit, or maybe I'll go for yukon gears and a positraction carrier. -- on that note, can I just drop in a posi unit from a similar vintage mustang?

Along with that ring tooth being crunched off, the bolt holding the cross pin is also stripped out. I think the best course of action for me is going to be to drill out the pin itself. I think the bolt is too far recessed into the case for me to get a drill to it. I take it the pin is hardened steel? I'll have to invest in some good drill bits for this one.

Of course, I'm open to any other ideas or suggestions.

Edit: My buddy had an idea to cut a slot in the bolt and try to use a flathead to get it out. I guess it's time to buy a dremel!

as the cut off wheel wears down it flings abrasive dust all over inside the axle, clean thoroughly after grinding!