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Should I buy this rear axel for my 2003 Ranger Edge?


rubydist

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The factory Ford limited slip is perfectly fine as long as the clutches are not worn out. I've seen axles with under 100k miles that have clutches that are no good, and others over 150k that are still functioning fine - its greatly dependent on how the vehicle was driven.
 


Blmpkn

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Clutch type LSDs are awesome IMO, apart from the maintenance factor.

The Yukon duragrip in my old truck was stellar. Super aggressive.
 

Roert42

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I still have a junk yard axel with Trak-Lok in my 23 year old mustang that had the absolute shit beat out of it. Driven like a rental car every day.
Still hooks. :cool:
 

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The factory Ford limited slip is perfectly fine as long as the clutches are not worn out. I've seen axles with under 100k miles that have clutches that are no good, and others over 150k that are still functioning fine - its greatly dependent on how the vehicle was driven.
Good to know. I called up a shop that rebuilds rear axles and differentials and has done many Rangers. The guy said he would install either a locker or LSD, but recommended LSD, suggesting it would last a long time, and was better for "normal" driving around town. That's what I do.

I've driven lockers before. They are fine too.

The consensus here seems to favor new as opposed to used. One never really knows what's inside a twenty something rear differential until one looks inside...and then it could be too late.
 

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I still have a junk yard axel with Trak-Lok in my 23 year old mustang that had the absolute shit beat out of it. Driven like a rental car every day.
Still hooks. :cool:
Sweet! I've got a buddy who's done the same to his. He swears by them.
 

ummduh

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Good to know. I called up a shop that rebuilds rear axles and differentials and has done many Rangers. The guy said he would install either a locker or LSD, but recommended LSD, suggesting it would last a long time, and was better for "normal" driving around town. That's what I do.

I've driven lockers before. They are fine too.

The consensus here seems to favor new as opposed to used. One never really knows what's inside a twenty something rear differential until one looks inside...and then it could be too late.
Yep, if the initial price doesn't scare you off, and you have no other needs that necessitate an entire axle swap, it's probably your best bet. I don't know if you have a 7.5 or a 8.8, but the 8.8 at least has a good number of LSD options to choose from.

Again, a used clutch type LSD axle has no guarantee of actually functioning as it should. The clutches have a lifespan, they could be worn out... meaning... the carrier needs to come out.


If the chance of the carrier needing to come out is as great as it is.. might as well just buy a brand new LSD carrier and have it installed in your current axle.
I have never done it, but I understand the track-lok is rebuilt in the axle. You have to remove the axle shafts, then the guts come out of the carrier.

But yea, getting a junkyard axle gives you no guarantee of it being any good in the first place.
 

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since jeep guys swap in explorer rear ends to get disc brakes, and sometimes limited slip, why not get a d44 out of a wrangler, cherokee, or comanche? or a chrysler 8.25 with a locker? they come in 3.55, 3.73, 4,10, and some other 4.xx ratio and are the same bolt pattern as our trucks?

or is the leaf spring perches on the wrong side of hte axle? i cannot remember if they are leaf over or leaf under
 

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I confess. I've got more money than brains. The trouble is that I'm not all that rich.

I bought a 2003 Ranger in good condition then went ahead and spent thousands in its restoration, maybe $20,000.00 all in. Call me crazy but I'm driving a brand new truck for half the price.

Limited Slip, or locker is a nice option, well worth looking into.
 

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since jeep guys swap in explorer rear ends to get disc brakes, and sometimes limited slip, why not get a d44 out of a wrangler, cherokee, or comanche? or a chrysler 8.25 with a locker? they come in 3.55, 3.73, 4,10, and some other 4.xx ratio and are the same bolt pattern as our trucks?

or is the leaf spring perches on the wrong side of hte axle? i cannot remember if they are leaf over or leaf under
Interesting
 

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The jeep guys don't swap out because of the disc brakes, they swap out because they have a Dana 35 rear axle that like to break axle shafts, the guys with D44 rear axles don't swap to explorer axles...

There is a no weld way to swap to an explorer axle, there's a flip kit for F150's somewhere that just goes over the tube and indexes to the original spring perches then you use two of one side Explorer spring pad thing with shock mounts but that's likely less than ideal... Just to keep things straight the carrier doesn't have to come out to repack a trac loc axle, just axle shafts need pulled (actually only one backed out enough to get one side gear off... I did my '00 Explorer only pulling one caliper...) to get the spider gears out

Not sure I'd do a swap just to get a trac lock, you could get as lucky as I did when I put the grizzly locker on my '90 with an explorer axle, I just swapped the carriers with new carrier bearings and checked the pattern and it was perfect...
 

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i know the d44 guys don't swap because its a downgrade but they complain about the drum brakes on the d44. my wrangler (my son drives) has the d44 in it and i wouldn't change it even for disc brakes (but i wouldn't have changed my d35 either because i never had one break) but i know all the jeep guys complain about stopping once they put 32s or 33s on.

but i was just giving other options since the explorer axle is wider than the ranger and jeep axles and i wonder if that f150 kit would work on the jeep axles too, if you got one from a second or third gen grand cherokee that had coil springs? more grand cherokees had d44 rear ends than the others and you can also get disc brakes on the third gen (99-05ish?).
 

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Before you buy, consider Torsen and Eaton gear driven limited slips. I believe the Torsen is the better of the two but both use standard gear oil and don’t required the additive like clutch type limited slips do and there is no clutch discs to wear out.

There are negatives and positives to both.

Clutch types tend to be smoother and more transparent but you eventually have to replace the clutches and there is the additive that you may or may not need to add during oil changes. Some gear oils already have the additive in it when you buy it.

The gear type doesn’t require the additive or replacement clutches but can be more “twitchy” when they engage. Torsen offers two levels with their LSD. Eaton only offers one. I believe the Eaton is called the Tru-track.

Also, pay attention to what gear oil the manufacturer recommends. Using the wrong type can effect performance.
 

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The factory Ford limited slip is perfectly fine as long as the clutches are not worn out. I've seen axles with under 100k miles that have clutches that are no good, and others over 150k that are still functioning fine - its greatly dependent on how the vehicle was driven.
They aren't very good even with new clutches, a Detroit Truetrac is a far better limited slip if you want a limited slip, but if you wan't better traction for cheap a lunchbox locker is a great choice.
 

rubydist

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They aren't very good even with new clutches...
You can repeat your opinion endlessly but that doesn't make it accurate.
 

Josh B

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Ok, thanks for that. I was about to ask just what is wrong with them.

Mine has 360,000 miles on it and I don't know anything wrong with it.

I put new axles and bearings in it a couple years ago but just considered that preventative maintenence
 

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