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Short awning over deck

scotts90ranger

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I have a pellet grill that keeps getting wet and the auger plugs up, it's annoying to clear out... plus if I had some rain cover on the back deck thing it would be kinda nice... The problem is this deck is right in front of the kitchen window so I don't want to cover up the whole view... Keep in mind this is on the down wind side of the house and there's a 1' overhang on the roof next to where I'm talking about

So here's my thought, I have a bunch of 3' lengths of metal roofing and a fair amount of some light gauge 2" steel square tubing. If I made two perlins out of the tube then made 3 brackets to lag bolt to the wall that are 3' tall would that be sufficient for a 3'x15' with about a 2-12 roof slope? This would mount the roofing just under the gutter on the house. I could do 4 brackets, I would just prefer to not do any posts... I'm in western Oregon, snow load shouldn't be an issue as it's been years since there's been more than 3" of snow and even that is rare...

I'll get a picture of where I'm talking about and make a sketch of the brackets I'm thinking of later today...
 


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Do you have somewhere to store posts? Can you fabricate something into the rafters to hold a post(s) if needed? Better to have and not need?
 

scotts90ranger

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Ok, here's a pic of where I'm talking about and one of my sketch, it is sorta to scale at 4 boxes to a foot but I haven't taken any real measurements other than that gutter is just over 14' long... as you can see by the gutter line height compared to the door I don't have much height to deal with hence the shallow pitch...

20211219_143846.jpg

20211219_181134.jpg
 

RustyShackleford94

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I would tie it into every other stud and have full or near full length supports on both ends like this.
2ADEF910-0894-47B9-B9E7-01B35ED3C1E6.jpeg

4 1/2” or even 3/8” lags will hold it no problem. Built like this i would guess the sheet metal roof would give before the frame work.
 

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A triangle is strongest, but i dont see a need to go all the way to the bottom of the upright. Keep the brace level IMO.
Snow isnt heavy until it gets wet. And it would be real easy to clean the snow off that...
And i dont see a need for the kink in the top piece.
 

scotts90ranger

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The kink in the top was just to go out from the wall and meet where the gutter is for the metal, the gutter is mounted to a fascia board so I gotta get to that... but yeah, that wouldn't be necessary, I'll play with it.

For the brace I imagine splitting the difference would be enough, it'll be fully welded 1/8" wall 2" square tubing since that's what I have, all I have invested in the material is 3 hours grinding it apart from what it was originally... and the metal roofing I got in a pallet deal and is what is left over from building a 12'x20' lean to for my tractor several years ago...

Even every other stud is only 5 supports, I gotta do an inventory of the metal at this point...
 

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If you run the roof panel parallel to the gutter you can save some material. Just screw the panel directly to the brackets. Put a very slight slope to the brackets so the rain water runs of away from the house. You can buy self tappers that have a washer and gasket meant for steel roofing over steel perlins.
 

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Good catch. Definite need to pitch the top panel away from the house or there's potential for a lot of water damage (e.g. rain/snow). I see snow laying up there, melting closer to the house first - trapping it between snow and the wall, weeping up into the soffit and penetrating the wall necessitating a complete tear down and rebuild.

Just call me Dr. Doom...
 

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IMO, you're really over thinking this. A simple 4 post with a sloped roof to cover the patio that is not attached to the house would be simple, easy and fast.
 

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IMO, you're really over thinking this. A simple 4 post with a sloped roof to cover the patio that is not attached to the house would be simple, easy and fast.
But he is trying to keep a semi-clear view from the kitchen window...
 

Fast Eddie

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So? Just move the kitchen window...geez...how hard can it be?
 

dvdswan

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scotts90ranger

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I was planning on having it tilt away from the house no matter what, probably run some type of gutter at some point (I think it has rained 3-6" since Friday?).

I know I'm over thinking everything, I'm an engineer, it's what I do... :), but I'm also a cheapskate so trying to use what I have and don't want to cover the whole ~8'x16' patio since the roof next to it is so friggin short and to go high enough to clear the kitchen window would get silly...

Ok, how about 4 posts but attached to the house for stability at 2 points, two perlins with a couple brackets to attach to the fascia board if any of that makes any sense... posts at the corners, ~14' span with .120" wall 2" tube I think that could be doable...
 

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Ok, here's a pic of where I'm talking about and one of my sketch, it is sorta to scale at 4 boxes to a foot but I haven't taken any real measurements other than that gutter is just over 14' long... as you can see by the gutter line height compared to the door I don't have much height to deal with hence the shallow pitch...

View attachment 69508
View attachment 69507
69629


I've built and installed awnings for the past 15 years. I tried to do different colors to separate the 'pieces' . If the door swings out, you need a projection more than 36" to cover the open door. If it swings IN, no need for the 36". Too much projection and you'll need support. More drop add more support. Width would be whatever you desired. No brackets needed if you drill holes in the top back arm and the down arms.
69630


If you go through the frame, the lower on the down arm, the more strength from "up drafts" ( wind hitting the side of the house and going up into the awning.)

Feel free to ask ANY questions. I have over 10,000 hrs doing this type of work. (actull almost 20,ooo hrs)


EDIT: I put the Awning over the door, old habits and all, but the same concept will work over the grill.
 
Last edited:

Roert42

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View attachment 69629

I've built and installed awnings for the past 15 years. I tried to do different colors to separate the 'pieces' . If the door swings out, you need a projection more than 36" to cover the open door. If it swings IN, no need for the 36". Too much projection and you'll need support. More drop add more support. Width would be whatever you desired. No brackets needed if you drill holes in the top back arm and the down arms.
View attachment 69630

If you go through the frame, the lower on the down arm, the more strength from "up drafts" ( wind hitting the side of the house and going up into the awning.)

Feel free to ask ANY questions. I have over 10,000 hrs doing this type of work. (actull almost 20,ooo hrs)


EDIT: I put the Awning over the door, old habits and all, but the same concept will work over the grill.
View attachment 69629

I've built and installed awnings for the past 15 years. I tried to do different colors to separate the 'pieces' . If the door swings out, you need a projection more than 36" to cover the open door. If it swings IN, no need for the 36". Too much projection and you'll need support. More drop add more support. Width would be whatever you desired. No brackets needed if you drill holes in the top back arm and the down arms.
View attachment 69630

If you go through the frame, the lower on the down arm, the more strength from "up drafts" ( wind hitting the side of the house and going up into the awning.)

Feel free to ask ANY questions. I have over 10,000 hrs doing this type of work. (actull almost 20,ooo hrs)


EDIT: I put the Awning over the door, old habits and all, but the same concept will work over the grill.

I think he want's it wide enough to cover his BBQ.
 

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