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shift motor


Kenns57

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Have a 2001 Mazda B4000. Is this electronic 4X4 same as Ranger? The motor no long works. Looking for wiring diagram or any help. I posted this under Mazda forum as well. Have no power to shift motor but have power at fuse box. This truck does not have the brown wire going into the transfer case. Not vacuum operated.
 


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RonD

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No power or ground is at the shift motor unless the 4x4CM is active, sending it 12v and a ground, these reverse to run the shift motor in two directions

In 2001 the 4x4CM is behind passenger side kick panel, it was a common failure point in the 2001 to 2005/6 Rangers and Mazda B-series
Looks like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-4x4-Transfer-Case-Shift-Control-Module-Ranger-Explorer-1L5Z-7E453-AC-/191593496579

I will post wiring diagram below
But its basically pretty simple

The dash switch is 3 resistors and rarely breaks
The 4x4CM sends the switch 5volts with key on
If 4x4CM gets back 4v that means switch is set at 2WD
3v is 4High
2v is 4Low

The 4x4CM has 2 relays inside, one for each shift "motor" wire, BOTH relays are Grounds when open<<important
So the 4x4CM only needs to activate 1 relay to send 12v on one wire to get motor to turn clockwise, other wire is already a ground
And then activate the other relay to get motor to turn Counter clockwise, simple

The shift motor's worm gear turns the shift rod gear which has a 4 contact "wheel", so 5 wires
The 4x4CM uses the contacts to tell the position of the transfer case's shift rod, 2wd, 4h or 4l

So 7 wires total, brown wire was for an electric clutch

If you change the switch position and do not hear the 4x4CM "click"(relay) then 4x4CM is most likely the issue

But if you don't activate the shift motor once a month they will fail

Shift motor rebuild info here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/rebuilding-a-ford-transfer-case-shift-motor/
 

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Kenns57

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Thanks RonD. I've been reading that jump starting or replacing a dead battery can take out the 4x4CM as well. This has happened lots on this truck. I assume the module is different from a '99 (there's one at the local wreckers) Can I use a shift motor that has the brown wire for the electric clutch? I got one from that "99 truck and using direct power it works. The plug is the same.
 

RonD

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Yes, you can use the shift motor from pretty much any year Ranger, or Explorer or F-series

The 4x4CM is year specific, 2001-2005 are the same on Rangers, I think 2001-2002 Explorer SPORT model used the same one
1995 to 2000 Ranger used GEM module to operate 4x4, so not the same
 

Kenns57

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Yes, you can use the shift motor from pretty much any year Ranger, or Explorer or F-series

The 4x4CM is year specific, 2001-2005 are the same on Rangers, I think 2001-2002 Explorer SPORT model used the same one
1995 to 2000 Ranger used GEM module to operate 4x4, so not the same
Thanks again! So there is no power to dash fuse #28 which is GEM/CTM system and radio. Hummm radio works but then it's an aftermarket radio and we didn't install it. But there is no power at #24 either but that's the clutch Pedal Position switch and starter relay and that system works.
 

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Fuse 28 in 2001 only has 12v when key is turned to START, its to mute the radio and notify other systems during starter motor activation
So not part of 4x4 operation
 

Kenns57

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Fuse 28 in 2001 only has 12v when key is turned to START, its to mute the radio and notify other systems during starter motor activation
So not part of 4x4 operation
Oh ok, roger that. Must of been for another year, they listed fuses to check. Just need to check those voltages at the 4x4CM but sounds like the culprit :(
 

Kenns57

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Yup no power to 4x4 switch. I'll check power to 4x4CM next but need to go out.
 

Kenns57

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Fuse 28 in 2001 only has 12v when key is turned to START, its to mute the radio and notify other systems during starter motor activation
So not part of 4x4 operation
So have power going into module except no power in run position for the red with lt grn stripe but have brake lights. No power coming out Yellow/blue stripe going to switch.
 

RonD

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The brake pedal switch has TWO switches inside, one for brake lights and one is a "sensor", used by several system, for the 4x4CM its used only for shifting to 4Low, but check fuse #9

The yellow/blue wire is the RETURN voltage from the switch, the white/blue should have 5volts OUT to the switch when connector is plugged in
 

Kenns57

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The brake pedal switch has TWO switches inside, one for brake lights and one is a "sensor", used by several system, for the 4x4CM its used only for shifting to 4Low, but check fuse #9

The yellow/blue wire is the RETURN voltage from the switch, the white/blue should have 5volts OUT to the switch when connector is plugged in
Uh ok. It's just that according to the wiring diagram the red/lt grn is hot at all times. It has 7.5 MV at the module plug. The white blue has nothing :(
 

RonD

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The red/lt green shows as a ground in one brake switch position and as 12v in the other switch position
 

Kenns57

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The red/lt green shows as a ground in one brake switch position and as 12v in the other switch position
Ron reading on other posts, is it true that jump starting or changing a battery blows these boards? This truck has always had battery issues. Gone through 2 batteries and 2 alternators in the past 4 -5 years. Doesn't drive it much, about 50,000 Ks in those years. He has disconnected the battery when sitting for long periods.
 

RonD

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Depends on how you jump start on newer vehicles, 1990 and up

Vehicle with good battery should be OFF, always
Then you hook up jumper cables and try to start engine that has dead battery

You can use a running engine hooked up to dead battery to try and recharge it a bit but always shut off the running engine FIRST, before trying to start dead battery engine

Problem is hooking together TWO running charging systems, this can cause voltage/amp spikes when dead battery engine starts up, so you want to avoid that

You can cause damage to electronics in either vehicle, its not likely, but possible

The voltage regulators in 1990 and up vehicles are electronic not mechanical and these are easily damaged
The old disconnect negative battery cable with engine running "test" was used for mechanical voltage regulators and SHOULD NOT be used on 1990 and up vehicles, it can damage electronic voltage regulators

A bad battery can damage a good alternator and a bad alternator can damage a good battery
So anytime you think there may be a problem you need to test BOTH before replacing either, or you could end up in a loop of replacing one then the other repeatedly

All you need is a $10 volt meter to test a charging system and battery
 

Kenns57

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2WD / 4WD
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Depends on how you jump start on newer vehicles, 1990 and up

Vehicle with good battery should be OFF, always
Then you hook up jumper cables and try to start engine that has dead battery

You can use a running engine hooked up to dead battery to try and recharge it a bit but always shut off the running engine FIRST, before trying to start dead battery engine

Problem is hooking together TWO running charging systems, this can cause voltage/amp spikes when dead battery engine starts up, so you want to avoid that

You can cause damage to electronics in either vehicle, its not likely, but possible

The voltage regulators in 1990 and up vehicles are electronic not mechanical and these are easily damaged
The old disconnect negative battery cable with engine running "test" was used for mechanical voltage regulators and SHOULD NOT be used on 1990 and up vehicles, it can damage electronic voltage regulators

A bad battery can damage a good alternator and a bad alternator can damage a good battery
So anytime you think there may be a problem you need to test BOTH before replacing either, or you could end up in a loop of replacing one then the other repeatedly

All you need is a $10 volt meter to test a charging system and battery
Thanks Ron for all your help been really informative.
 


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