Seperator plate worn... starter keeps moving/walking away from flywheel.

[MadMax_636]

This is the state of my starter mounting. The separator plate is worn out and a bit deformed. It keeps allowing the starter to move away from the flywheel and causing it to grind and not be able to start the motor. I've read posts upon posts about how people having a similar issue and some say tighten it till it can't move anymore. Some say replace the plate. Ive tried tightening the hell out of it. It still seems to move, I've tightened it will thread locker still moves. So atm, I can't even drive my truck let alone set the timing after the duraspark mod. This is getting annoying and fucking with my depression. Like I know what the issue is but whenever I try NOTHING WORKs.

If anyone has any ideas on what I should try or do based on their own experience please tell me or if anyone knows or had a separator plate I WILL BUY IT!! That's if it will fix it!. I've had an idea on a bracket to make that will hold onto the top and bottom bolts and pull on them and in turn, push on the starter by push pulling the starter in place. Keeping it from moving. The only issue with that. Is that I don't know how to or own a welder to try and fabricate something like that. I'm desperate at this point!

 

[ericbphoto]

Best idea I have isn’t easy due to the tight work area there. But. You could install the starter. Make sure it’s in the right place. Then drill a hole through the flange on the starter and bellhousing and install a roll pin. Two pins would be better.

 

[MadMax_636]

Best idea I have isn’t easy due to the tight work area there. But. You could install the starter. Make sure it’s in the right place. Then drill a hole through the flange on the starter and bellhousing and install a roll pin. Two pins would be better.

So you're saying to drill a hole through the starter and bell housing? Im just curious on where your talking about drilling on the starter and bell housing?

Heres a photo of the starter. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/bestest-4534/charging---starting-16772/starter-11798/dad3c6651e74/bestest-starter-remanufactured/v613164a/4601419/1984/ford/ranger?pos=1

NOTE: That is NOT the starter Im using. I just picked the first link with decent photos.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Those teeth look worn down also...

It might be in your best interest to pull the trans and heli coil the holes, atleast you will have room to drill the holes properly and tap them. It sucks I know, but might as well do it right. Or its time for a 5.0 swap.....


I would replace that stud it look wore down where the ears of the starter rest.

 

[MadMax_636]

Those teeth look worn down also...

It might be in your best interest to pull the trans and heli coil the holes, at least you will have room to drill the holes properly and tap them. It sucks I know, but might as well do it right. Or its time for a 5.0 swap.....

Id love to do the 5.0 swap but finding a 302 at a good price is hard around here.

The teeth do look worn down but thats all because of the stupid mounting design of the starter.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Id love to do the 5.0 swap but finding a 302 at a good price is hard around here.

The teeth do look worn down but thats all because of the stupid mounting design of the starter.

I edited my post before I saw you responded Try replaceing that stud it lools wore down.

 

[MadMax_636]

I edited my post before I saw you responded Try replaceing that stud it lools wore down.

Which stud are you talking about?

That's what a NEW flywheel looks like for reference.

 

[MadMax_636]

Heres a link to some more photos I took of the bellhousing and starter area.

6 new items by Lane McDonald

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[MadMax_636]

I edited my post before I saw you responded Try replaceing that stud it lools wore down.

When you say stud, do you mean bolt? If so, it looks worn down because of the flash. It also had some dirt and threadlocker on it. So that might be why it looks soft.

 

[Ramcharger90]

When you say stud, do you mean bolt? If so, it looks worn down because of the flash. It also had some dirt and threadlocker on it. So that might be why it looks soft.

Yeah, just pull the trans and replace the plate and flywheel why waste time dicking around?

 

[MadMax_636]

Yeah, just pull the trans and replace the plate and flywheel why waste time dicking around?

Yeah very true! The issue with that is that I cant seem to find a replacement plate anywhere. IDK if im using the right wording or not.

Thanks for the help! I might still make some sort of bracket to help it stay in place but I do need and want to find a new plate before I even do it. Since I dont wanna put a new flywheel and starter thats might just cause the same issue.

 

[AndyB.]

How much play is there between the bolts and the holes in the starter? I’m guessing that when the holes in the bell housing stripped, a smaller diameter through bolt was used, and that’s what is allowing the starter to move.
Fun fact: you can replace the ring gear in the flywheel, but your teeth look ok.

 

[MadMax_636]

How much play is there between the bolts and the holes in the starter? I’m guessing that when the holes in the bell housing stripped, a smaller diameter through-bolt was used, and that’s what is allowing the starter to move.
Fun fact: you can replace the ring gear in the flywheel, but your teeth look ok.

Thanks, Andy! The top one was done by me. I just used the same size bolt when I did the through bolt. zero play. The bottom was already there. it does have a little bit of play but it from what I've read. It seems like other people have said the bottom is smaller than the top weirdly.
The bottom is a 1/2 nut. Don't know what the bolt comes out to be but the stop is a 17mm. So yeah. Some bubba fixes have been made. The top bolt before I stripped the threads out was a 17mm. I just drilled it out to remove the threads and put a 17mm bolt through and a 17mm nut holding it on.

I had been having this issue where the starter would need to be replaced/reseated after a few weeks but now it's just gotten so bad. Like, IDK why or how it keeps moving. I've done nothing different unless when I removed all of the TFI crap is game the starter more power? IDK.
At some point ill post a photo of the starter where it SHOULD be vs where it moves. ATM, the starter is sitting on the ground. Since I was taking and posting those photos.

 

[ericbphoto]

So you're saying to drill a hole through the starter and bell housing? Im just curious on where your talking about drilling on the starter and bell housing?

Heres a photo of the starter. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/bestest-4534/charging---starting-16772/starter-11798/dad3c6651e74/bestest-starter-remanufactured/v613164a/4601419/1984/ford/ranger?pos=1

NOTE: That is NOT the starter Im using. I just picked the first link with decent photos.

Sorry. My idea won't work. It had been a while since I saw my starter. I thought it had a flange around it instead of those wimpy little ears. I just went and looked and found out the truth.

 

[MadMax_636]

Sorry. My idea won't work. It had been a while since I saw my starter. I thought it had a flange around it instead of those wimpy little ears. I just went and looked and found out the truth.

Yeah, I have no idea on why Ford designed the starter in this way. It's dumb. Id put 3 ears. Not 2 wimpy ones. 2 to hold it in place (ON) and one to keep it in the right position. I think they learned on the 3.0 and 4.0 starters since those have 3 ears instead of 2.

Thanks for the idea though! You through me off for a second because I didn't know what you were talking about haha.