- Feb 3, 2009
- Reaction score
- Las Vegas
- Vehicle Year
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- Engine Size
It's just a cure-all-in-a-can you can find at probably all part stores.Hi, I've been reading this thread with great, ahem, amusement, but I have to ask. What is this Seafoam intake cleaner you're talking about? I've never heard of it. Sorry to sound like a newb, but I've been an RBV owner for fifteen years, and have never heard of this. Oh, my poor, neglected engine!!!
i have never heard of it ruining plugs and oil , my buddy uses it religously in his prelude , and he does his oil changes ever 5k miles , and he has not changed the plugs in it since he bought it , and as i said , he uses seafoam religously , he will never use anything elseDo make sure to be ready to change your oil and maybe spark plugs. I know my oil is definitely brown now after the Seafoam, and the truck is now running like shit, probably the spark plugs fouled up from the Seafoam. This isn't something I was warned about. Not even 1,000 miles and spending $25 on oil and plugs again already. Bah, at least it's clean.
well, these two posts are from my thread (on page 2) 'weird tach behavior after sea foam':i have never heard of it ruining plugs and oil , my buddy uses it religously in his prelude , and he does his oil changes ever 5k miles , and he has not changed the plugs in it since he bought it , and as i said , he uses seafoam religously , he will never use anything else
mtnrgr said:'The oil and plugs NEED to be changed with 800 miles of sea foaming your engine. Sea Foam fouls plugs and all that carbon that is broken down is inside the oil.
If you only changed the plugs and oil before the sea foam job. You gotta do it again.'
It makes sense, my oil is now thick and dark and before the sea foam it looked as light and slick as the day it was put in there.fixizin said:Oh yeah, what mtn said: do NOT run that batch of crankcase oil too long after SeaFoam, or ANY fuel injector cleaner, etc... it breaks down oil. i.e. figure you run out the tank of gas you poured it in, and then ONE more tank AT MOST, then change... read the label... there's a warning to that effect on there... in REAL TINY print...'
Wow, I've always used Seafoam right after I changed my oil, never had any problems with it... I think it's B.S. it even says on the can you can put it in your crankcase oil...Good page with tons of info:
Sea Foam should always be done before an oil change. It looks like that's the conclusion.
I can see water cleaning piston tops nice because of the steam, but it wouldn't do so much for intake valves. I guess that is where an in tank cleaner would work good. How do you do the water method?? Just like seafoam etc??Still not as cheap as water, plus, it's still a petroleum product and will leave residue when burned.shady
Well, I think if Seafoam would make a large chunk of sludge fall off and clog up your oiling system it was probably pretty close to doing it already... Or are you talking about hydro locking the engine? Before I really knew what I was doing (16 years old) I put Seafoam in my 2.3 Ranger through the brake booster vacuum line and actually had the entire line in the cup of Seafoam and all it did was sputter real bad... I might have been lucky, and I wouldn't advise it, because I'm sure it could happen, I think most people just think the internal combustion engine is alot more finicky and delicate than it really is... That's my .02... Of course now I slowly put in Seafoam, making sure it passes through the air before it even reaches the vacuum line (helps atomize it before it even gets to the intake manifold)...I would always do this type of cleaning immediately before an oil change. Some gunk may break loose and find its way into the oil.
Again, my warning is that a large slug of liquid can be drawn into an engine so quickly, that you don't have any time to react.