school me on A/C.

[NMB2]

Ok so I'm not an A/C expert by any degree, although I feel fairly comfortable working on them. The 86 F350 I am putting together has A/C setup but has been opened and god only knows for how long, and parts need to be replaced I'm sure.

first question is, in a system that has been opened and exposed to elements, which parts need to be replaced right off the bat?

secondly what upgrades can I do when rebuilding this system, if any.... IE use expansion valve in place of orifice tube.

I'm thinking that I can keep the compressor (tested and it pumps), evaporator core.

replace the Drier, condenser, accumulator. Convert to expansion valve.

any flaws in this plan? other things I need to be aware of? Am I forgetting parts of the A/C system?

 

[4x4junkie]

I'd be a little leery of the compressor.
Do you know any history on it, like why it was opened? (like someone was gonna start working on it but then left it for some reason?)

The condenser is another component that I'd replace for sure too. Once dirt gets into it, it's basically impossible to flush it all out, due to it's design. So yeah, replace that too.

I see no good reason to move away from the orifice tube/accumulator setup though.
I converted the A/C on my BII to use R-134a a couple years ago and it blows out at a frigid 38° even when it's 95° outside.

 

[v8318cid]

Always replace the accumulator when the system has been open for any length of time. The desicant will almost certainly be contaminated with moisture.
I would agree with replacing the compressor as well. First off, it was designed for R12. While the hard parts may handle the higher pressures from 134a, the seals will almost certainly be worn and will probably leak immediately, or at least soon. Second, its hard to gauge how much wear there would be on it without disassembling it. You could have possible internal problems such as broken piston rings, bad or bent valves, or worn bearings. If you can spring for it, I'd get a replacement just to avoid problems later down the line. You may also consider changing to a variable orifice tube. While its not a requirement, you can generally get better idle temps with the VOT rather than the fixed version if you use 134a. If you're lucky enough to have access to R12, just make sure its clean before you charge.
Lastly, make sure you eyeball your lines. If you see any greasy spots, that hose probably leaks and should be replaced as well.

 

[MMRanger]

Help pls

I own a second hand Ford Ranger 2002 model on which I recently bought on a used car lot. Initially I prefer used cars as they are generally less expensive to newer models and though you may find this strange, I love finding the faults of my vehicles through research and diagnostics and try to patch those problems with replacement parts or re-overhauling components so the used car is close to good as new.

Here is my problem. My 2002 Ford Ranger has no AC. Now I plan to build form scratch the AC system through parts purchases.

Currently I have a busted Motorcraft Heater Valve for the 1997 which I purchased and delivered through an online store and plan to trade it in for a Motorcraft 2000 Heater Valve for my AC. (I don't know how upload pics so I just used a reference site for specification reference).

What do you think? Do you think the 2000 Motorcraft Heater Valve since it is a generic part will piece well with all the other generic parts I plan to buy from different merchandisers to form a rag-tag AC system?

Anyone tried a similar cookie experiment. I'm a newby on cars and used to ride a bike to work by the way.

Thanks, for the future kind responses. Don't hesitate on bashing me on this thread for imploring self remedy solutions. Lay it on me.