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SAS on a 91 ranger or rebuild ttb?

91TheHoff

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Which route ttb rebuild or SAS will be more cost efficient? Ttb needs ring and pinion rebuild, some cracked seals, axle shafts(maybe) . But tearing a ttb apart is a complex job. What would it cost me to do a SAS? The truck already has a 4 inch rough country lift, what do I need to make this happen? I would take the ttb to be rebuilt but if I decided on a SAS my friends and I would probably do it. Let me know your opinions and give any advice. Thanks fellas:headbang:
 


kryptonitecb

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Rebuild is always cheaper, however there are pros to going solid axle. It also depends on which axle you are going to use.

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brinker88

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TTB Axles really aren't that complicated to disassemble. Granted, it is tricky the first time around. Expect the lower coil retainer nut to be a PITA to remove. I would buy a used 3rd member before I rebuilt one in your situation (if you're running stock gears). I would upgrade to 760x joints, I would do the C-clip eliminator modification, and I would upgrade all steering & ball joints to MOOG.
 

91TheHoff

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Id most likely use a dana 30 from a wrangler or i could find an older Dana 44. The labor costs for the rebuild would cost more than the self labor of a SAS right? I honestly like the TTB, it handles good, absorbs bumps and get bad ass traction all the time. BUT I know the reliability, simplicity, and toughness of a SA. If any of you know anything about trannys, check out my other post! thanks man
 

brinker88

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There's not much to a TTB D35.

Rebuild parts:

- Used diff with new seals - $200
- Spring for C-clip eliminator - $2
- 3 u-joints - $60 for good ones
- spindle bearing/seal kit - $10/kit (broncograveyard.com)
- upper/lower ball joints - $35/side (broncograveyard.com)
- inner/outer wheel bearings with seals - $40/side
- Pivot bushings - $25 (broncograveyard.com)
- Radius arm bushings. - $30ish (broncograveyard.com)
 

swynx

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I would rebuild it. I rebuilt mine (not r and put) but like said I would buy a used 3rd. When I did my front end it was the first I have done. Shop told me the book called for 8 hours per side. I can tear it apart and put it back together in about 2 hours. Its not hard. Its actually straight forward.
 

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Id most likely use a dana 30 from a wrangler or i could find an older Dana 44. The labor costs for the rebuild would cost more than the self labor of a SAS right? I honestly like the TTB, it handles good, absorbs bumps and get bad ass traction all the time. BUT I know the reliability, simplicity, and toughness of a SA. If any of you know anything about trannys, check out my other post! thanks man
A Dana30 would be going backwards. A D44 at least offers you bigger brakes.

I agree though... If you can rebuild a SA, you can rebuild a TTB. The only major differences are the passengerside slip-shaft & u-joint (circlip inside the diff), and the diff removes from the 'cover' rather than the cover from the diff.
Ball joints, wheelbearings, spindles, gear setup, u-joints... All that stuff comes apart the same using the same tools.


I strongly suggest Raybestos "Professional Grade" balljoints over Moog... I used Moogs and they didn't last 5K, my oldest Raybestos (Spicer) joints are now 12 years old and still going.

Raybestos pt#
500-1066 (upper)
505-1145 (lower)
 

91TheHoff

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How long do you think the rebuild would take with the help of a friend or two?
 

brinker88

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I full day, easily.
 

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