SAS advice...

[Hagan]

Thanks guys! I was trying to get an axle before I left for Vegas in the morning...so it will have to wait until I get back. I'm flying so I can't pick one up on the way!

I will find a '76-'77 axle. My D35, locker, and gears will be going to be put to use in my friends B2...and I am helping him set up the gears. We both want to see the potentials of a D44 SAS vs D35 TTB side to side...obviously there will be a lot of factors.

I don't want to get stuck with a 'thinner' D44 so can you just look at the side of the axle housing and is that the correct thickness?

 

[Maverick]

But when you say something about something when there are real-world examples available that demonstrate the contrary, I'm only making sure the others here are aware of them.

As did I

I don't want to get stuck with a 'thinner' D44 so can you just look at the side of the axle housing and is that the correct thickness?

Yep, just look inside the inner C and you can see the thickness of the tube.

 

[Hagan]

Perfect...I appreciate your help!

Btw...your D44 looks good!

 

[BRONCONUT]

The stock track bar/panhard mounts suck. Not that you will ever shear one off but they are single shear mounts, I cut mine down and welded on a mount of my own that is double shear.

Here is a pic with measurements

and here is a couple pics of how mine turned out on the bronco

lower

upper

and a few pics of the steering and track bar

and if you plan on going this route

 

[Hagan]

That looks great!

Why not use an aftermarket frame mount track bar mount?

 

[Hagan]

Also, Dutchman axles in Portland, OR will cut and re-spline my axle shaft for $55.

 

[SAY789]

Damn too bad I didn't advertise my 78 d44 on here. I narrowed it then sold it for 250 cause I decided to go 3/4 ton. Would have been perfect for ya

 

[Hagan]

Patience is killing me. I can't find a Dana 44 between 76-77. I find one and it sells the day its posted. Any tips on finding an axle? There is one in a junkyard about 50 miles away but I'm sure it has nothing on it...like brakes, calipers, springs, steering, radius arms, and radius arm mounts... I figured it would save a lot of headaches having everything from one vehicle then change stuff as I go.

 

[BRONCONUT]

That looks great!

Why not use an aftermarket frame mount track bar mount?

Why buy it if you can build it?

If you go with one from a vendor more than likely it will bolt or weld to the frame and not have a brace that runs to the crossmember. When building a custom suspension you need to keep in mind the foces that are going to be put on such parts. I like to se things bolted versus welded because I am more likely to change it a few years down the road.

Another reason I built my own is beacause I have all the material laying around to do so. It brings a whole new level to the built not bought moto and you become more proud of your creation that way.

 

[Hagan]

Why buy it if you can build it?

If you go with one from a vendor more than likely it will bolt or weld to the frame and not have a brace that runs to the crossmember. When building a custom suspension you need to keep in mind the foces that are going to be put on such parts. I like to se things bolted versus welded because I am more likely to change it a few years down the road.

Another reason I built my own is beacause I have all the material laying around to do so. It brings a whole new level to the built not bought moto and you become more proud of your creation that way.

You make a very good point! I don't have much material laying around...and I prefer a clean well put together truck than just throwing an axle underneath and welding everything. I do prefer bolt on too.

Anyway, I have a bunch of questions.

First, shortening the axle. I get the idea but what I don't get is wheel bearings. Are the wheel bearings inside the "C" thats pounded off? I guess I am thinking of my 8.8...how the wheel bearings are sitting at the end and if I cut it off it won't have a recessed area for the bearing to sit on.

Next would be the radius arms. It looks like you went with an aftermarket set. Would you suggest going with aftermarket or stock arms?

 

[BRONCONUT]

Personaly if it were me I would get some from James Duff or Jim cole, they are some bad ass arms and you wont be breaking them.

Your wheel bearings are on the spindle. The spindle mounts on the knuckle that is held on by a couple of ball joints at the inner c.

You need to gouge the welds off the tube on the inner c, heat the c to around 350* and they should come right off. Cut the tubes down to size then press the c's back on and weld them out. Its realy not as hard as one might think. You also need to make sure you keep your c' at the right caster and improve the pinion angle while doing all of this. So when tacking it all back on install it somewhat on some jack stands and hook up the drive shaft. get your pinion angle right then set your caster angle on the c's around 6.5-7* of caster.

BTW the Cage arms I have are Jim Coles and you can find him at bloodyknucklegarrage.com or on face book. They also come with 4.5* of caster built in the arms.

 

[Hagan]

I already shortened it. I didn't however move the other "c" on the drivers side. I left it the same. I removed the "c" and cut 6" off. I heated it up in the oven and pressed it back on. Then I used an angle finder and made sure both C's were at the same angle and welded it back together. I'm waiting for my axle shaft to be shortened and resplined so I can put it back together. I also need to buy a new carrier and a locker. Then I can finish that up and fab up some radius arms with 1.25" heims.

I will be using stock bronco coil buckets with 5.5" EB Deaver springs. And I will probably purchase Ruffstuff track bar/steering kit. I will probably go knuckle under too...which I believe I have to cut the 'c's on the radius arm caps.