Sasquatch already broke it down pretty good, but I will add a couple pennies of my own here (
red):
There's a very good chance you'll end up doing one anyhow. Very few people that actually "build" a D35 end up keeping it for any length of time.
Peer pressure can become pretty strong & convincing, no doubt
Real hubs
I didn't know the D35's were fake.
1/2 or 3/8 axle tubes vs. stamped steel beams that crack and act as a plow
You're comparing ¾-ton D44s to the D35?
Holds alignment better
No issues here either. Now if you can't be bothered to check that your linkage isn't jacked up after you put some poorly-engineered lift parts on it, then sure, all bets are off.
Better steering set up
Certainly easier to set up anyway, and is much more friendly toward really tall lifts
Strong aftermarket support
True, there is... However posts like this make you wonder if that's about to change
Better design for keeping water and debris out of wheel bearings
How so? I see the same set of seals with the same part numbers for both axles (well at least for '90-'92 D35s, the later ones show some different part #s depending on where you look... So how about simply just putting those D44/early-D35 seals onto the thing if they're that much better??).
One thing that I keep reading about the D35 is the bearings and how close they are and running big tires and offset rims can kill them fast and who doesnt do all of these things to them? If a D44 knuckle swap or going to SAS can calm this problem then it would be the best thing to do IMO. If these upgrades that have been posted about ways to improve and extend the life of components on the D35 and make it more trail worthy and what do work, then it would be well worth the time to do them IMO. But like any axle setup, they all have there limits and if you are exceding them then do whatever it takes to make your rig do what you need it to do. If you arent exceding the limits of it and its working for you, then keep what you have unless you feel the need/want to do upgrades to your rig. Just my $.02
No argument here, I do see people posting about bearing issues with some frequency, though I also see lots who have never have an issue at all. I can only attest that this is most likely a user-setup issue (overtorquing the bearing preload being by far the most common, though using cheap (i.e., NOT Timken) bearings contributes as well). The D35 is no doubt sensitive to this, but it is by no means impossible to have complete reliability out of it.
Purchasing the correct reamer, reaming the beams, reaming the knuckles for steering, clearancing the beams for the knuckles. Okay, so it's not that difficult, but it's more than just reaming four holes.
So why not bolt D44 TTB spindles to the D35 knuckles which then just leaves fabbing up a caliper bracket? (or maybe a Chevy bracket will work)?
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47420&highlight=knuckle+swap
I did the 44 knuckle swapon my D35 and it was very easy, 'specially after I read the swap where the guy drilled the beams with a 3/4 drill bit b4 reaming, way easy. I had more trouble getting the rear axles swapped to 5x5.5. Went as far as contacting Moser axle and trying to get some custom shafts built. There isn't enuff meat on an Explorer axle to drill 5x5.5 bolt pattern. I ended up getting junkyard F-150 8.8 axles and cutting them down, milling a c clip attachment and resplining the axles. I have a TSM disc brake kit for a F-150 8.8 under the xmas tree right now. Brackets, rotors, nuts and bolts. All I need then is the GM calipers. I didn't use adapters as the smallest I could find was 1.25". I already have new wheels and fiberglas fenders so the extra width was outa' the question. YMMV, I don't care.
If you drill the axle flange for
thread-in studs, there's just enough room for them to fit. You cannot drill it for standard press-in studs however.
I haven't completely decided. I still have about a week or so to decide.
Maybe I am not seeing hidden costs but here is my price list on my d35;
D35/Lift Brackets - $250
Gears - $250
Locker - $250
Shims/seals - $80
u-joints - $80
Radius arms - $70
I can get an axle for about $300...and exchange my locker so I believe I will be about even.
I'm unsure if I will upgrade to a 4.0 eventually or what. I don't have a problem with the d35 I have never used it. I just thought I have a chance to do something different (than stock) and was trying to figure out if the costs would be equivalent.
And my goal is to build it right the first time. 35's will be my max tire I run. I will use it for hunting, fishing, camping, and some trails.
Here's how mine breaks down:
D35 axle = Free (already have it)
Lift:
- used axle brackets = Free
- XJ coils = $170
- Extended radius arms = $40 (4' 2" DOM tubing to extend the stock arms)
- F-250 shock mounts = $30
- Bilstein shocks = $160
Warn 37780 Jeep hubs = $165
Spicer 5-760X u-joints = $70 (3)
K-link steering = $350 (remember you will need new steering for the SA too, so this might not come out any different in either case)
(disclaimer, some of those are 2004 prices)
I'm not including things like gears, lockers, rebuild parts, etc. though, as you would need these for
ANY axle, so their cost isn't relevant.