Rusted out exhausts, gasket leaks, busted fuel line

[the_orangutan]

Got a 1998 3.0L V6 4x4 5-speed. Clutch has been slipping now for months, finally caught a break with time to work on it. This is the deepest I've gone in on any car and I'm pumped to do the work but now it's approaching that moment where DIY turns into a holy shit didn't see that coming project

Come to find all the bolts that connect the Y-pipe exhaust to the manifolds are all rusted out, even the 2 bolts on the back end that connect to the catalytic converter are pretty much rusted into the surface metal. Been spraying them for days with WD40, no luck.

After peering through the wheel wells, looks like valve cover gaskets are leaking on both sides. Even the oil pan gasket seems to have a leak toward the rear of the engine (though it may be dripping down from the valve cover gasket(s)). Few different mechanics put in mind that the slipping clutch might be rear main seal leak. Paranoia's creeping in...

Also got a fuel line rigged with tubing cause the previous owner jammed an incompatible fuel filter into the connects, had to get it cut out. Figured to get that done while the truck's up and apart.

Any recommendations for going about the rusted exhaust bolts? About troubleshooting the seals and gaskets in a comprehensive order (I'm assuming follow gravity - top to bottom)? Any advice at all

Sorry for the epic narrative. Help MUCH appreciated.

cheers

 

[RonD]

Most independent muffler shops will remove the rusted exhaust bolts and replace them for under $50, cash
I have paid as little as $30
Takes them about 10 minutes, they got ALL the tools and do it every day, so they got the know how as well.
If you tell them you will be disassembling exhaust soon then they won't tighten them up, just snug them up.

The nuts and bolts will break when you start to get them turning, so you will have to replace them anyway.
And if a stud breaks off flush you can spend all day trying to get it out.

If you are dropping the trans anyway to do the clutch then you can replace the rear main seal, under $10, and not at all hard to do.

Yes, leaking valve covers could be what you see on the oil pan.
Use cork valve cover gaskets as replacements, cork swells to seal better than rubber.
If you will be pulling off the valve covers often, THEN you should use rubber gaskets, that is what they are for, reuse, cork shouldn't be reused.
Clean off the side of the engine with degreaser after new valve cover gaskets are in and then check oil pan from time to time.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I like the idea of getting the exhaust shop to break and replace the bolts. I broke mine and finally gave up trying to remove them. I drilled them out and fixed with helicoil. I don't bother trying to remove broken bolts anymore, I go directly to helicoil. A whole lot less work, especially if you break a bolt extractor.
You're dropping the trans anyway, just replace the rear main for peace of mind.

 

[the_orangutan]

awesome feedback guys, thanks a lot. got 2 bolts out, think I can get one more off, then will figure out a solution for the other - hopefully something that won't involve leaving the driveway. some photos attached of the bolts to see the hassle... there's even an O2 sense at the head of one of the bolts... aye caramba man

Gonna def replace all seals and gaskets, not worth not doing it. Been reading up on posts about replacing the oil pan gasket without lifting the engine, seems do-able with the right foresight, just unsure as to the best/safest part of the engine to raise from underneath.

there was a paper gasket between the xfer case and the transmission, read a few different opinions bout replacing it - i'm not too hot on RTV cause I haven't used the stuff before and don't want to compromise any part of the engine. watched a few videos about how to use RTV (continuous bead, etc.), might just spring to a dealership and get a replacement.

will keep posting as the saga continues, thanks for the guidance

 

[Spott]

For gasket replacement, I use the black gasket-maker stuff, Loctite 598 or McKanica Black. The guys at the transmission shop use it (the biggest shop in the valley, so I have to assume they're doing something right).

I like the 200ml self-dispensing aerosol cans; I think it works like easy-cheese.

If you can get (or make) a paper gasket, then use a thin bead of the black silicone on both sides. That works even better. Gasket paper is cheap at the auto parts store, and you can cut it with a utility knife or tap it with a ball-peen hammer.

 

[RonD]

Problem with the oil pan is not dropping it, the oil pump pickup is in the way so you can't get it out on most models, so very hard to clean surfaces for new gasket.

 

[the_orangutan]

Good looks Ron, will consider that before making moves on the oil pan.