"RR94"

[ericbphoto]

Yes. I realized that later on. It's a pretty good tool.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Denisefwd93]

Okay I stopped tracking the days but it could go something like 3 4 5 6 7 8 LOL
Pulled it out of the yard today going to take it for a ride.
Things I did with only a little bit of help from a friend!
By passed the RABS valve.
ABS light went out I was ready to rip it out so we'll see how that goes with the valve still in the circuit I was getting a code for it's still in the circuit but there is no pressure on it now.

Pressurized &checked for leaks on the AC system still not found any. 200 psi nitrogen.

The brake fluid fluid level sensor, seems to be intermittent cut the wires put them back together tapped on it right now the red light is off and only comes on when the parking brake is on.

Was going to get speed bleeders. To bleed the brakes after working on the rear brake lines.

But! I realized one of my friends gave me a mityvac! With a little perseverance, Teflon, tape and some tight fitting tubing; pulled the air right out!

Drive shaft occasionally makes a loud clink. Forward and reverse reverse and forward, Probably a U-joint? Definitely a bad carrier bearing because when we reinstalled it it was questionable Imo, My old school friend said it's fine lol

I'm finally getting hits on my other truck that's up for sale off Craigslist and Facebook.

I may bite the bullet and take the driveshaft to the NAPA shop and get new U joints and balanced, just seems to make sense, I don't like friends pounding on universal joint yokes, to help me out lol.

Wish me luck on my first drive since I brought this truck home I'll report back yes my AAA is paid up to date!


Update!
Got over my mental block and took it for a ride!

CEL came on getting back to the house I checked got code 38 & 172. Engine never warms up even with a new thermostat I think fan clutch is almost completely locked.
I did clean the mass sensor.

Went outside with my infrared handheld thermometer. It's in the high 50s outside.

Engine fan runs like it's locked at any speed even though you can turn it by hand when it's not running, sounds like a Jeep! Which is the sound my other truck makes with the heavy duty fan clutch, until it warms up!

After running a good half hour the heater hoses barely made it to 160 the upper radiator hose and thermostat never even close to 180!
Engine is not warming up! of this there is no mistake!

 

[RonD]

Fan clutch will always move if you push a fan blade, it just won't continue to"spin" when you release it, if its "locked"
If it won't "spin" after cold start and shut down of the engine, then it is "locked" full time
So start cold engine count to 10 and shut it down, fan should "spin" easily if you push a blade, in either direction.

Not sure what code 38 is?

After cold start feel upper rad hose, at radiator end, should be cold of course.
Let engine idle for 2 minutes and feel upper rad hose again, should still be stone cold.
If upper hose is warming up with the engine then t-stat is stuck open, or not sealed in place.

There should be 0 circulation thru radiator until coolant at t-stat reaches 180degF(in your case), +/- 3degf
T-stat is fully open about 10-15degF above rated temp, so in your case 190-195degF for fully open

Exhaust leak between head and O2 sensor can cause lean code on that bank

 

[Denisefwd93]

Engine doesn't warm up at all. Will deal with that first,

38 in this book that I have, says an open on the TPS, it still has a somewhat High idle, Even with the new IAC and clean map sensor. The RPMs "jump" for no reason also

Oh and the fan, is not locked in a mechanical sense, but it is very hard to turn whether it's warm or cold, engine won't even get up to 160. My other truck's 4.0 warms up to temperature I'd say in less than 10 minutes.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Think I'm going to block theradiator with cardboard and bring the temperature up see if that helps before I get somebody to help me do the fan clutch!

 

[Denisefwd93]

Another Day in Paradise LOL.
I started the truck late in the day it's in the low 80s outside. It still took a good 20 minutes or longer to get up to temperature and when the 180 thermostat finally opened the overall temperature dropped to 150 160.

The fan by hand test has resistance but it doesn't seem to Freewheel afteer Startup and racing engine gets typical fan noise at all speeds and all temperatures cold or warm. Eh, standard Duty fan clutch is only 40 bucks.

I ran the codes again maybe I'm starting to learn how to read them.

538 and 172 KOER and KOEO

I'm about 99% sure the TPS is no good.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Whoops! I forgot actually didn't realize I needed to do the WOT!

Oxygen sensors are tested with an volt ohmmeter and heat? Just like a thermocouple I'm guessing

Also what may have some bearing on this is the exhaust system. the way it's it's not original, there are two oxygen sensors in the crossover pipe which leads to 1 catalytic converter which leads to a Cherry Bomb muffler lol

 

[Denisefwd93]

feeling a bit overwhelmed with the "list" of things to do. and it's growing. time for a break LOL


valve covers are leaking bad! who make these for the 4.0?

But, gotta get this damn fan clutch nut broken loose so that "simple" project of replacing the FC can be checked off.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Update! May 10,
still working on the "List"

things done to date;

DONE! TPS (after 3 attempts with the wrong part wrong box from Advance Auto)

DONE!
IAC working... seems to not work as well as the old one but the RPM does drop as it warms up.

DONE! Cleaned the MASS sensor

DONE (but)180 Tstat.. this is looking like I may actually have to give in and go with 195 (I do listen to Ron) .. this engine just won't warm up. (also looks like it has a new rad)

DONE! Fan Clutch and blade, We F'ed around over 2 weeks. Finally, the shop I used to use, did it in 10 mins. (hint) listen to the knowledgeable people here on this site. ADSM was spot on about the air chisel! but with my luck, my "help" or me, would have broken the water pump LOL

NOT DONE! Still getting code 172, may bite the bullet and get new O2 sensors, not a bad thing I guess.

NOT YET! truck "feels like" the parking brake is dragging (common problem) BUT, the wheels aren't hot after driving a bit. One front wheel is badly tilted. (gotta check the front end yet. )

The truck is not my daily driver yet. so it's back into the back yard so we/me can get some more things DONE lol

 

[Denisefwd93]

Sisters! Lol

 

[Denisefwd93]

The list is never going to end! Took the beast over to get gas Front brakes are locking up! $#&+#!! At least I have new brake lines that I bought for the other truck so it's just a matter of MORE work! Arrrrg!

 

[Denisefwd93]

Taking a break tonight, just checked on a few things it seems the caliper that was dragging has released, I believe that is a symptom of a bad hose.

Why I think my temp sensor is suspect, making a running rich condition.
Pics show temp about when the 180* opened. My other truck's temp is much better with a 180* T-stat

 

[Denisefwd93]

Oh well, engine management will have to wait a bit... found out why the front brakes are dragging.

right side lock nut was loose the inner lock nut spun in TIGHT! and the caliper clamped tight as a vise!
left side didn't burn away the pads but both sides will get new calipers, pads, rotors and HOSES!
repeat 5 Xs always replace old brake hoses, always replace old brake hoses, always replace old brake hoses, always replace old brake hoses, always replace old brake hoses arrrg!

still taking a break, should get it back together and rolling free early in the week.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Previous owner says; "just had new brakes put on it"

I can't really complain because he didn't know better, it took me years and years to get convinced of the kind of havoc bad brake hoses can cause.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I've been running all day! Looks like I have all the parts together finally, so hopefully in a day or two the front brakes will all taken care of