2.3L ('83-'97) Rough idle/engine shake/stalling

[MDeBo]

I had even went as far as checking the voltage's at my inlet temp sensor and MAF when running rough and smooth and it all checked out. Makes no sense as to what the hell is wrong.

 

[martinglen]

I had even went as far as checking the voltage's at my inlet temp sensor and MAF when running rough and smooth and it all checked out. Makes no sense as to what the hell is wrong.

I know. It's driving me crazy. I just checked the vacuum with a gauge and it is steady at 22 which is normal. I thought maybe a clogged cat. but the vacuum was steady during acceleration all in normal range. I'm going to get the temp. before and after the cat with an infrared thermometer and see if there's a difference. I know that would be an expensive fix but at this point it would be worth it to get this headache over with.

 

[MDeBo]

Hate to say it because it's been such a good truck, but I'm to the point where it's not really worth spending any more money on this problem, not with 373,000+ miles on her. Unless you or anyone else finds an easy fix. And I think we've exhausted the easy fix options.

 

[1999Mazda Central Florida]

I know it's a fairly old thread, but been having same issues with '99 Mazda B2500 for a while. Catalytic converter had a crack and I replaced the cat along with both oxygen sensors and exhaust manifold. The same stall out upon deceleration manifested (no change as it was doing that before and had been curious if cat renewal would improve it...which it didn't.) There is also a fairly extensive forum exchange regarding the potential fix for this having something to do with the AIC and throttle body cleaning <--all of which did not help either. My next job is going to be EVAP charcoal canister since I'm having issues with early pump stoppage at gas station.

1999 Mazda/Ford intermittent near stall and stall at red lights and after coming to stop...

The stalling or wanting to stall issue is intermittent. It only happens when coming to a stop (while winding down to idle.) It will mostly almost stall, but picks back up at the last second before stalling and if I have a load (like A/C or while turning) it will stall. It always restarts...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[jthrash85]

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• 4-Cylinder Engines (1983-2011)

Engine sputter/Shake/Stall
I cannot figure out this sputter/stall issue. My truck is a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L Manual Transmission with l97,000 miles.

Here is the problem:

1. When I start the truck and begin driving and come to a stop sign, the engine will begin to sputter at the end of deceleration. If I sit at the stop, it will work itself out and run smooth after about 10 seconds. (Only happens during the first 2 minutes of driving then the problem goes away.)

2. When I start up the truck and begin driving and come to a stop sign quickly, the engine will stall out at the end of deceleration. If I try to start it back up, it won´t turn over until about 10 seconds later. Then it runs kind of rough then smooths out again.(Only happens during the first 2 minutes of driving then the problem goes away.)

3. When I start up the truck and begin driving and push in the clutch and coast then come to a stop sign quickly, the engine will stall out. If I try to start it back up, it won´t turn over until about 10 seconds later. Then it runs kind of rough then smooths out again.(Only happens during the first 2 minutes of driving then the problem goes away.)

4. When I start up the truck and just let it idle in place, it runs smooth, but when I accelerate it, it begins to sputter at the end of the deceleration. The higher the deceleration the more likely it will stall out. Then I wait 10 seconds and start it back up to find it running rough for another 10 seconds and then its smooth again.

(Note: Engine is less likely to sputter and stall if I use engine braking by down shifting and using the foot brake just at the very edge of the stop.)

What I have done to try and fix this:

1. Replaced Coil Packs, Spark Plugs, and Spark Plug Wires
2. Replaced Fuel Filter
3. Replaced entire EGR system
4. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor
5. Replace Idle Air Control Valve
6. Replace cracked EVAP hose to Canister
7. Replaced Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
8. Cleaned MAF
9. Cleaned Intake Air Temp. Sensor
10. Cleaned Throttle Body

CEL code prompts if I decelerate fast enough to have it stall:
Throws a cylinder 2 or 3 misfire.

Something about driving seems to help it. Does anyone have any idea what this may be caused by?

I am on the same boat as you. Did everything you did and now am working on replacing my TCC solenoid. I believe its and transmission issue. Will keep you posted if I find anything.