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Rod ends etc…


DRanger024

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~4" front, 2" rear
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32X11.50-15
So what are your favorite and why? Like in depth why. I have 1.25” QA1 rock ends on my ‘94 and I do not approve. Drivers side has been awesome for 18+ months but the passenger side has been cooked to death by the catalytic converter and creaks. It’s super annoying and when I take it apart to service it, it looks great other than some dry grease. So I want to know, what do you prefer?
 


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85_Ranger4x4

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I just have rubber ones from Napa.

Poly ones are great but get creaky with age as the grease deteriorates.
 

scotts90ranger

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4x4 Junkie says to just use the stock style, and with his experience and experimenting with dang near everything I trust him... plus the factory style bushings haven't let me down and have taken some serious abuse... hitting that log at 15 in the ditch lengthwise with just the passenger side tire years ago was enough for me to be convinced... stuff got all tweaked but I just straightened it out and put new bushings in, or did I reuse them? I don't remember, I've got all sorts of spare parts around...
 

rhekman

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Engine Size
4.0
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2"
So what are your favorite and why? Like in depth why. I have 1.25” QA1 rock ends on my ‘94 and I do not approve. Drivers side has been awesome for 18+ months but the passenger side has been cooked to death by the catalytic converter and creaks. It’s super annoying and when I take it apart to service it, it looks great other than some dry grease. So I want to know, what do you prefer?
Do your QA1 ends have the PTFE/Kevlar bushings? Or the polyurethane ones?

Sorry I don't have anything to add, but I'm building new arms this week and I went with Rock Jock 2.5" Johnny Joints. I went oversized on purpose to allow for more damping, and the Johnny Joints are greasable. I was also contemplating making an extra air gap heat shield on the passenger side to protect from converter heat, so I guess this thread is another point in the yes column.

The stock bushings lasted 20+ years, which I can't argue with. However the way I use the truck now, I'd like less deflection and more bind-free suspension travel. So one bolt and a couple snap rings to rebuild each side seems like a worthwhile tradeoff for less bushing life.
 

DRanger024

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626
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Location
Dale, WI
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
~4" front, 2" rear
Tire Size
32X11.50-15
Do your QA1 ends have the PTFE/Kevlar bushings? Or the polyurethane ones?

Sorry I don't have anything to add, but I'm building new arms this week and I went with Rock Jock 2.5" Johnny Joints. I went oversized on purpose to allow for more damping, and the Johnny Joints are greasable. I was also contemplating making an extra air gap heat shield on the passenger side to protect from converter heat, so I guess this thread is another point in the yes column.
Mine are the PTFE ones. I would think polyurethane would melt next to the cat. I’m thinking something greasable will be going in next. I don’t care if I have to squirt grease in every 1,500 miles as long as they’re quiet. As far as stock style bushings go, it’s easier to make brackets for rod ends IMO.
 

ericbphoto

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1993
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Ford Ranger
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3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
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I would recommend fabricating a heat shield. Even the OEM assembly had that little cup-shaped heat shield.
 


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