- Joined
- May 15, 2020
- Messages
- 2,398
- Reaction score
- 3,897
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Atlanta
- Vehicle Year
- 1997 1987
- Make / Model
- Ranger XLT x2
- Engine Type
- 4.0 V6
- Engine Size
- 4.0 & 2.9
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 97 stock, 3” on 87
- Total Drop
- N/A
- Tire Size
- 235/75-15
- My credo
- Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
I’m going to log transforming the ‘97 extended cab 5sp 4.0 into “Rick’s Ranger Rig” here. 87 4WD Rick-storation is ongoing and I’ll leave that coverage in that thread.
My Ga Tech Prof buddies made it into a mini class lab project. Two interesting developments:
First, on my “5th wheel” design for the pivoting/floating frame over the tag axle, I can’t place the pivot point above the frame, I have to put it in the center +/- of the frame rail. This was not a matter of having the trailer ride up in a panic stop. Placing it on top ran the risk of tearing the top of the frame off like a tin can, the frame steel thickness is too thin. It looks like I have to box the frame for about 8 inches in front of and in back of the pivot point, and the pivot point will be a sleeve that as welded across the frame once boxed.
The other surprise there is I was thinking of like a five-eights or three-quarter inch steel rod from Home Depot inside a sleeve like a pipe nipple, but of course thicker than a pipe nipple. In hindsight what they came up with makes sense, The shaft has to be like the neck of a trailer ball. I have to use at least a three-quarter inch, preferably 1 inch high carbon/hard steel rod due to the sheer value. I got the shaft cheap by picking up a sway bar out of the scrap pile at the pull a part. I think it’s 1 1/8 inches and I’ll chop out the middle. See pic.
Here’s a question for you guys. Do I put that steel shaft directly in a steel sleeve welded into the frame? I was going to have a very tight tolerance, with an O-ring at either end of both sleeves, and put a grease fitting in the middle. Remember I’m not going to be running 1,000,000 miles in any kind of commercial service. What The “class“ came up with was to do a sleeve in a rubber bushing, kind of like what you have at the end of a leafspring. If I’m starting with a 1 1/8 inch shaft, that ends up being a pretty big rubber bushing, but these guys are saying it will completely transform the ride comfort without losing any strength. Thoughts?
For my trailer, the class came up with using a 4“ x 1“ thin wall tubing (not that thin) for the two main rails, and liked my cross truss/lattice design. Both 4 inch box beams would be stitched to a full length plate, something like 3/8 inches thick by six or 7 inches high, and it would be offset with the 4 inch tubing, resulting in about eight or 9 inches vertical height. It would be plenty strong for pulling and stopping, etc., but not very forgiving in something like an accident. All the big trailers you see are made out of heavy channel to make the trailer indestructible. My/our design is plenty sturdy and stable for pulling even my big Lincoln, but if there was an accident, it would fold up like a beer can, whereas the typical heavy duty equipment trailers pretty much fold up whatever they run into.
So, I met with a couple guys from the Georgia Department of Public Safety and a guy from the DOT, all friends, and there was good news and bad news. As long as it is “not for hire“ and labeled as such, there is no problem with the drivers license, with the load ratings I’m looking at, etc. etc. with one exception: the length. If I want to make it long enough to hold my biggest Lincoln or even the square town cars, I will exceed the “fooling around limit.” While I still plan on doing some articulated vehicle driving training, I don’t think I’m up for actually getting an articulated CDL, so the trailer length will probably be limited. I can still do about 15 feet of deck. One option I already ruled out was to have the trailer ramp up and over the hitch pin, but I wanted to be level and flat, so I ruled that out.
On the trailer, I plan on making two different tongues that can be bolted on or bolted off. One will be the elevated fifth wheel, and one would come straight out of the trailer with a military hitch.
There are still details to be worked out, but with this preliminary information, I plan on starting to turn wrenches and cutting and beating and banging. I’ve accumulated most of the parts I want and I need, and remember like the 87 4WD Rick-storation, i’m going to build a solid, safe and roadworthy, but I don’t plan on spending a nickel I don’t have to spend. I’ve been horse trading around the camper caps and the trailers and the wheels, etc. and so far except for the new engine in the 87, I am breakeven including the cost of the trucks.
And one last thought, an image I thought I’d share. The shift knob in the 97 was cracked and was hard on the palm of my hand. I ordered one of the number 13 pool balls, but it hasn’t come in yet. From earlier texts I know that a lot of you guys like the red trucks and like the redheads, so I went to the Goodwill, blew 79 cents, and I got a temporary shift knob. Even looks like my gal, but don’t ever tell her I said that…
My Ga Tech Prof buddies made it into a mini class lab project. Two interesting developments:
First, on my “5th wheel” design for the pivoting/floating frame over the tag axle, I can’t place the pivot point above the frame, I have to put it in the center +/- of the frame rail. This was not a matter of having the trailer ride up in a panic stop. Placing it on top ran the risk of tearing the top of the frame off like a tin can, the frame steel thickness is too thin. It looks like I have to box the frame for about 8 inches in front of and in back of the pivot point, and the pivot point will be a sleeve that as welded across the frame once boxed.
The other surprise there is I was thinking of like a five-eights or three-quarter inch steel rod from Home Depot inside a sleeve like a pipe nipple, but of course thicker than a pipe nipple. In hindsight what they came up with makes sense, The shaft has to be like the neck of a trailer ball. I have to use at least a three-quarter inch, preferably 1 inch high carbon/hard steel rod due to the sheer value. I got the shaft cheap by picking up a sway bar out of the scrap pile at the pull a part. I think it’s 1 1/8 inches and I’ll chop out the middle. See pic.
Here’s a question for you guys. Do I put that steel shaft directly in a steel sleeve welded into the frame? I was going to have a very tight tolerance, with an O-ring at either end of both sleeves, and put a grease fitting in the middle. Remember I’m not going to be running 1,000,000 miles in any kind of commercial service. What The “class“ came up with was to do a sleeve in a rubber bushing, kind of like what you have at the end of a leafspring. If I’m starting with a 1 1/8 inch shaft, that ends up being a pretty big rubber bushing, but these guys are saying it will completely transform the ride comfort without losing any strength. Thoughts?
For my trailer, the class came up with using a 4“ x 1“ thin wall tubing (not that thin) for the two main rails, and liked my cross truss/lattice design. Both 4 inch box beams would be stitched to a full length plate, something like 3/8 inches thick by six or 7 inches high, and it would be offset with the 4 inch tubing, resulting in about eight or 9 inches vertical height. It would be plenty strong for pulling and stopping, etc., but not very forgiving in something like an accident. All the big trailers you see are made out of heavy channel to make the trailer indestructible. My/our design is plenty sturdy and stable for pulling even my big Lincoln, but if there was an accident, it would fold up like a beer can, whereas the typical heavy duty equipment trailers pretty much fold up whatever they run into.
So, I met with a couple guys from the Georgia Department of Public Safety and a guy from the DOT, all friends, and there was good news and bad news. As long as it is “not for hire“ and labeled as such, there is no problem with the drivers license, with the load ratings I’m looking at, etc. etc. with one exception: the length. If I want to make it long enough to hold my biggest Lincoln or even the square town cars, I will exceed the “fooling around limit.” While I still plan on doing some articulated vehicle driving training, I don’t think I’m up for actually getting an articulated CDL, so the trailer length will probably be limited. I can still do about 15 feet of deck. One option I already ruled out was to have the trailer ramp up and over the hitch pin, but I wanted to be level and flat, so I ruled that out.
On the trailer, I plan on making two different tongues that can be bolted on or bolted off. One will be the elevated fifth wheel, and one would come straight out of the trailer with a military hitch.
There are still details to be worked out, but with this preliminary information, I plan on starting to turn wrenches and cutting and beating and banging. I’ve accumulated most of the parts I want and I need, and remember like the 87 4WD Rick-storation, i’m going to build a solid, safe and roadworthy, but I don’t plan on spending a nickel I don’t have to spend. I’ve been horse trading around the camper caps and the trailers and the wheels, etc. and so far except for the new engine in the 87, I am breakeven including the cost of the trucks.
And one last thought, an image I thought I’d share. The shift knob in the 97 was cracked and was hard on the palm of my hand. I ordered one of the number 13 pool balls, but it hasn’t come in yet. From earlier texts I know that a lot of you guys like the red trucks and like the redheads, so I went to the Goodwill, blew 79 cents, and I got a temporary shift knob. Even looks like my gal, but don’t ever tell her I said that…
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