This. don't booger up the threads or weaken the studs by remachining the threads. get hardware that fits them you don't need to reuse the old hardware.
AJ
Agreed, and i wish that would have been the case! I brought one bolt (loose stud) to a good hardware store with bins of all nuts in all sizes and went through all metric and sae options by hand and with a wrench. If i recall correctly, 7/16 was the one that was closest, but it slid over the threads if tugged and could be pulled right off with some effort by hand. And when sliding it onto a 7/16 bolt in the store it was more snug and proper. That makes sense too because 7/16 is a bit over 11mm and these should be 10mm.
I wish i had taken close up pics of the threads to show what i mean, but the ID of the studs is a usable diameter for the first several threads, then suddenly the ID gets thicker and is wider for the majority of the bolt. You can see the thickness change without a magnifying glass or something. A wrench truly was not the solution, as i tried that one time with 10-1.5 and really cranked hard and it was on so tight that getting it off with the wrench was difficult. Essentially it was badly cutting new threads.
I rethreaded the studs on the replacement cat yesterday. It was slow going but turned out perfectly and the 10-1.5 nuts work nicely now. Attempting to install today with the new 1990-1992 intermediary pipe. Upon first glance it might all go together so fingers crossed.
There is some factory issue with those cat bolts. When i was on the phone with BRexhaust, i tried my best to tell them they would be smart to look into this but i know there's no chance that will happen on anybody's watch, so oh well.
I've done minor work on a few cars/motorcycles but never have had to dive this far into buy lots of OEM parts, so this is a learning curve for me in that regard.
Someone gave me a pair of real Ford Ranger farm truck mirrors in good condition the other day. They're way better made than the $20 identical looking ones sold these days!