Repositioning Caliper on a 8.8

[Haspe1113]

I have a 97 8.8 in my car and I need to reposition the calipers as they will hit the frame when I put air bags the car. Is there an easy way to do this, second option would be to change from DB to drums to get more clearance. Advise, thoughts. ideas?

 

[sgtsandman]

Did you do a disc conversion or buy it that way?

The only way I can think of to move a caliper to a different orientation is to have brackets custom made. As far as the operation side of things, the brakes don’t care where they are on the disc to function. Just try to keep the bleeders lower than the rest of the brake system but higher than the piston if you can. It makes bleeding air out of the system easier if you do.

 

[Haspe1113]

It came in the car this way. The car had static rear suspension so it did not matter but I am changing it to air ride and presently i only have 2" of clearance before the calipers hit the underside of the frame rail.

 

[MikeG]

I guess in theory.... you could rotate the backing plate. That would almost certainly screw with the e-brake cable, and quite possibly the brake lines.

Whether or not this is a good idea or whether anyone has done it, I don't know. Just a thought.

 

[ericbphoto]

If you rotate the calipers, they probably won’t bleed right because the bleeder won’t be at the top any more.

 

[MikeG]

Good point. Bleed before rotating

If you aren't going to use it for a work truck, then maybe notching the frame rail (with appropriate strengthening) might be the way to go.

 

[Haspe1113]

Good point. Bleed before rotating

If you aren't going to use it for a work truck, then maybe notching the frame rail (with appropriate strengthening) might be the way to go.

It is allergy notched. Right now im thinking drums or have a bracket custom made to lower the calipers from the 10 to the 7 position.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've never done something like this. Just throwing out idea(s);
If you're going to make brackets, are there other calipers that might work?
Cut the ends of the tubes and weld them in position to give you what you want?

 

[adsm08]

What wheels do you have that your calipers aren't completely inside the wheel?

I have an Explorer disc 8.8 in my 87, with the factory 15 inch steelies. and the calipers are completely inside the wheel.

 

[don4331]

Drum brakes require a check valve to keep some residual pressure in the lines. If you don't have the check valve, the shoes will completely retract and the pedal will go to the floor before the brakes do anything. A '94 Explorer would have all the part you would be looking for (assuming the "car" in question is the '95 Explorer in your signature.

The converse - leaving check valve in the lines when you do a drum to disc conversion, wears out pads faster, but isn't dangerous.

But in this case, I'm with adsm08 - what wheels/spacers are you running that the rotor/caliper isn't within the rim?

 

[Haspe1113]

The 8.8 is in my 1948 Chevy. The frame rails are at 50” so the calipers are on the inside of the frame rails and will hit if any lower than it’s current position.
Think the easy solution is to convert to drums

 

[MikeG]

I guess the drums would at least be a little smaller. How are you going to keep the tires/wheels from hitting the frame? Spacers?

 

[Haspe1113]

The wheels are not hitting the frame currently so that’s not the issue it is just the very inside of the calipers that will hit the frame if I lowere it any more. I have 4” of clearance rear end to frame but only 2” calipers to frame, I hope all of this makes sense.

 

[MikeG]

Huh. I think I'd be tempted to rotate the backing plate 90 degrees, vs. changing to drums. You're gonna have to pull the axle shafts one way or the other. Not sure which is less trouble.

 

[ericbphoto]

Needs a wider axle.