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Replacing your timing belt (with pics)


Desert Rat 23

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Ok, I know that there are a lot of threads covering timing belts and crank shaft pulley removals, but while I was trying to do mine I couldn't find a good one that covered the whole thing. This was my first timing belt project and I got a lot of help from some cool people on this forum so I figured I'd try to pay it forward.

First, if you don't have a Haynes manual, get one. Everything that you need to know about this is in there. Except tips and tricks to doing the hard stuff.

You're going to need to remove a lot of shit from the front of the truck to give yourself room to work. You can get away without removing some of it, but why torture yourself. You'll save time in the end.

Remove the air intake, exhaust side spark plugs, fan belt, fan and shroud, radiator, and battery. That should give you enough room.

Now, you need to find top dead center, this is where removing the spark plugs pays off. Turn the crank pulley in the same direction that it would spin if the engine were on until the timing mark on the crank pulley reaches the TC mark

Now look in the two peep holes on the timing cover to see if the marking on the cam pulley and oil pump pulley are lined up.


If they're not, turn it another 360 degrees and check again. you should be good now.

Next, unbolt the ac compressor w/out disconnecting the hoses and move it out of the way so that you can remove the 3 bolts holding the pwr steering bracket. The bracket has to be moved to remove the timing belt cover.

Remove the bolt or bolts and screws holding the timing belt cover on and pull out the cover.


Ok, this is where Haynes says "remove the crank shaft pulley", but they don't tell you what a bitch it can be. First take out the bolt. If you have an impact wrench, sweet. Sense you took out the radiator you wont have a problem using it. If you are like me and don't then you need to get creative. just spinning it to the left is futile. There are a lot of ways to do it and they all can be found in this forum with a quick search. I just put my breaker bar on it, tied it to the frame with a tie down strap and with the ignition coils disconnected, cranked the engine for a half second. Worked like a charm.

However, from what I've read, heard, and good ol' common sense, this can be dangerous and shit can break. Fair warning.

But it works

Now you need to get that pulley off. If you have a pulley with more than one bolt holding it on then just get a puller from the auto shop for about 15 bucks or have them loan it to you. Most will. If yours is like mine with one bolt only and the pulley doesn't just come off after the bolt did then here's what I did.

Spray a shit ton off penetrating oil in the crank key notch. I was told PB or liquid wrench. Never used them, but plan on getting some for future projects. I used wd40 and got lucky I guess.

Wait a while for it to soak in. Like a few hours or all night. Then using a dead blow mallet smack the crap out of the pulley on all sides. Take a torch (propane or map gas) heat up the pulley from the inside, around the shaft, not the shaft itself, (heat expands metal so don't heat the shaft) and don't cook it so much that it melts the rubber in the pulley. Then take a long (3-4') skinny bar (I used my small floor jack handle) and from behind the pulley and under the oil pan rap on the back of it to push it off the shaft.




If it doesn't come off, give the crank a 1/4 turn and repeat. (just remember to return it to TDC before removing the belt) Also, don't beat on it so hard that you bend the crap out of it. Patience, heat, time, and beer. You may need a lot of all of them. It will come off.



Its all down hill from here now. Just loosen the 2 bolts holding the tensioner, pry the tensioner back to release the belt, remove the belt WITHOUT TURNING ANY OF THE PULLEYS. Put the new belt on starting at the crank and working counter clockwise, reset the tensioner without tightening it. Turn the crank a few times to tighten it all up and also making sure all the timing marks still line up. Now tighten it all up and put it all back together. Your done.:beer::headbang::yahoo:

I probably got some of this wrong. But this is what I did and it worked great. I had a lot of help from some very cool members of this forum. So thanks to them.

If you see a flaw in this mess please correct me. Just wanted to give the next guy the help that i got.

CHEERS!!!:icon_cheers:
 


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dixie_boysles

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i just had to use the ol' breaker bar and bump motor to get off the crank bolt on my 06!
 

red85

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Every time I see someone using the method you did to remove a crank pulley, I just cringe! You did get lucky with the WD-40. I get all kinds of "I started to do this timing belt and now I can't do the job because (insert part here) broke". Whenever there is a puller available to remove something, USE THE PULLER!!!!!!! It may be a hassle to have to go out and get one, but it's a bigger hassle to have to replace a part because you butchered it. I'm not trying to be an ass, but I hate to see good people spending money they don't need to because of impatience. The statement about patience heat (just gentle heat!) time and beer is so very true! Glad to see you took pictures. Good job, man.

Phil
 

Desert Rat 23

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Thanks. You know, I tried a jav puller but couldn't make it work. Wouldnt grip the back of the pulley. I just found this picture online, I don"t know what its gripping onto inside the pulley, but you're right, they are out there.

This was the other puller I grabbed. Got it home and ready to go before I realized it was for a different kind of pulley.
 

ragajungle

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Every time I see someone using the method you did to remove a crank pulley, I just cringe! You did get lucky with the WD-40. I get all kinds of "I started to do this timing belt and now I can't do the job because (insert part here) broke". Whenever there is a puller available to remove something, USE THE PULLER!!!!!!! It may be a hassle to have to go out and get one, but it's a bigger hassle to have to replace a part because you butchered it. I'm not trying to be an ass, but I hate to see good people spending money they don't need to because of impatience. The statement about patience heat (just gentle heat!) time and beer is so very true! Glad to see you took pictures. Good job, man.

Phil
Did the exact same thing on my Moms Aerostar back in the day and either messed up the harmonic Damper Pulley and or the Front main seal. Started leaking profusely and needed to rip it all apart again in the end to replace the FMS. :bawling:
x2 for the puller
 

4b316

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Jim,moderators,this needs to be made a sticky.good info
 

Duane867

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This thread is great ! Good job !
I figured I would add a valuable piece of info though if I may...
The only things that really needs to be removed to replace your timing belt are the drive belt, belt tensioner assembly, Idler pulley, fan and shroud, water pump pulley, crank pulley, crank pulley hub, and timing cover. You can pry the crank pulley off with a long crow bar straight through the top up against any thing solid you can gently pry against for leverage. It will pop right off with no damage from hammering. Use hammering as a last resort....

No need to remove the alternator or the bracket, no need to remove the ac and power steering either. No need to remove rad hoses and drain the system or the radiator either. Its all about how you finesse the cover around the PS/AC bracket towards the radiator and out of the truck.

Makes life so much easier it isn't even funny when you do a timing belt in a 2.3L.
 
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mjonesjr

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Good post. I am submitting this for the Mag and the Tech Library.
 

scotts90ranger

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This thread is great ! Good job !
I figured I would add a valuable piece of info though if I may...
The only things that really needs to be removed to replace your timing belt are the drive belt, belt tensioner assembly, Idler pulley, fan and shroud, water pump pulley, crank pulley, crank pulley hub, and timing cover. You can pry the crank pulley off with a long crow bar straight through the top up against any thing solid you can gently pry against for leverage. It will pop right off with no damage from hammering. Use hammering as a last resort....

No need to remove the alternator or the bracket, no need to remove the ac and power steering either. No need to remove rad hoses and drain the system or the radiator either. Its all about how you finesse the cover around the PS/AC bracket towards the radiator and out of the truck.

Makes life so much easier it isn't even funny when you do a timing belt in a 2.3L.
on some of the newer ones there are brackets for some components in front of the timing cover...
 

Duane867

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I reckon, but I haven't run across any yet. Last one did like that was for a friend in an 02 2.3L Ranger ( 2wd 5 speed ). Since I have done mine I have become the he reluctant go to guy with all my over do hard to get to to change Ranger parts :-(
 

scotts90ranger

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complete different 2.3 (an '02 is the duratec), I think somewhere in the '96-01 models had some tensioners on front of the belt cover
 

Duane867

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Desert Rat 23

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on some of the newer ones there are brackets for some components in front of the timing cover...
Yea, that's how it was with mine. Ps bracket had the idler pulley on it and it sits about 1/4" in front of the cover, which has to pull out about an 1 1/2" to come out. Had to take the radiator out cause I was starting to ding the hell out of it trying to get the crank pulley off. IMO, the less experience you have, the more room you need.

BTY, thanks to those with the compliments.
 

Duane867

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Thats why I said to remove the idler pulley.
With it removed you have the room to squeaze it passed the bracket.
Thats exactly how mine is set up as well. ;-)

But you are definitely right ... if you have limited skills going in you definitely need all the room you can get.
 

VlvtnRbt

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Thanks to you guys and remembering my 2 liter pinto rebuild 20 years ago, & taking my time rplacin the broken timing belt on my '91 was a whole lot easier than it had any right to be. The one thing I did, because the little old man who apparently owned the vehicle before me, hadn't changed the belt in 126000 miles (It had been through an estate sale , so I'm guessing that decision worked out in his favor ) I decided to take advantage of having everything out and I replaced the fan clutch (shot), water pump, tensioner and drive belt , thermostat , all the hoses , and my radiator was which was working on maybe 1 -1/2 cores so a new one of those (thicker one for AC application), yes this added something like $250.00 to the job (I Highly endorse Rock Auto .com if you have to buy a bunch of parts at once.) but cost very little extra time putting it back together, and resolved the engine temperature under load issue. But the other value at least for me is that you aren't looking at one component failing after another (In my case, each component being 19 years old and having 140,000 miles on them) Like they say in the commercials "The Peace of Mind - Priceless"
 
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