Aside from being heavy, it’s not all that hard to do. I’ve had them out by separating the pitman and tie rods and I’ve separated the pitman from the box (requires a puller). There’s two power steering lines attached to the box and the steering shaft from the steering wheel is held on with a pinch bolt. Pull the pinch bolt then you just have to work the splined part off. The part where the steering wheel shaft attaches to has a flat spot so you can’t easily goof that up. The pitman arm can be clocked, however. So the best way to do it is get the wheels straight before you start. If you leave the pitman arm on, then it’s pretty hard to mess up, but if the pitman comes off, I would highly recommend marking it. It is possible to spin the box both ways and find center though, but it’s easier marking it.
FYI, Rangers (83-97), Bronco II, first gen Explorers, F-series trucks up to around 97, full size Broncos, and E-series vans all used the same steering box. Pitman arms are different, IIRC.
If it’s just excessive slop in the wheel, these boxes can be adjusted to a degree. There’s a nut and stud on the top of the box, loosen the nut and tighten the stud a little at a time. If the wheel starts binding and won’t return to center on its own, you need to back it off until that goes away. Sometimes an adjustment will fix the problem, sometimes not, but it’s a good place to start.
If it’s leaking fluid around the pitman arm, it is possible to change the bearing and seal there. Little bit of a pain, but it can even be done in the truck.
Also, there are upgraded steering box options. Doesn’t seem to get talked a lot about with Rangers, but it’s a fairly common thing to hear with the fullsize crowd.
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