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Replacing leaf springs tomorrow


Paisano

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Roert42

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I used a combination of drift pins and pry bars to get the bolt holes aligned.
Doing both at the same time should make it easier. I did one at a time.
 

Ranger850

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Doing things wrong, until I get it right.
Another question please.

I'm just checking an overview of my method:
When I get the new spring on the driver side.......I should install ALL hardware including U-Bolts BARELY snug..........THEN remove the old leaf spring and hardware from
the passenger side...........install the new passenger side leaf spring and ALL hardware BARELY snug........THEN use ratchet strap or by hand, to pull axle to align
both leaf springs........THEN tighten all hardware on both leaf springs. Is this correct?

How will I know both leaf springs are in alignment? Just a visual check?
I've never done this, but if I were to do it, I would get some measurements for reference. 4 points of a square and make sure the new stuff is squared up before I just eyeballed it.
 

Paisano

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I am on target to finish this today.

How come the new leaf springs have the rebound clip on the rear section of the leaf spring? My old leaf springs have the rebound clip on the front of the leaf spring.
The new leaf springs won't line up with the center bolt unless the leaf spring is turned around so the clip is at the rear of the spring. Then they hook up fine.
I double checked this and took measurements between old and new. The center bolt distance to leaf/eye is different from old to new. These springs specifically fit my make/model/year. But the manufacturer also calls these 'universal springs'

It seems to me that aligning all bolts holes on both sides will address any alignment issues. But I am willing to take some extra time with simple measurements if needed.
I just don't know what to measure.
 

superj

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i never measured or aligned when i change leaf springs. on jeeps or trucks. i just swapped them and went down the road and never had alignment issues or dog walking. i have done leaf spring swaps on cj5s, cj7s, cherokees, s10/sonomas, and 1500 chevy trucks.

once all the bushings and bolts are in, it should be all lined up on its own.
 

Paisano

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Ok. Thanks. I'm going to see if I can finish this today.

Just to confirm, I don't fully tighten ALL nuts and bolts on both sides till the full weight of the truck is resting on the tires........and this includes U-Bolts......correct?

(No need to answer this last question. It's in my Chilton manual)
 
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superj

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yes. wait till the truck is on the ground so everything is in its "normal" position
 

Paisano

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Hey Friends,
Thanks very much for your help on this.

I've been driving the truck today and everything seems fine. I did not have to remove the truck box or frame-mounted hangers. The only leaf spring hardware I re-used was two flag nuts. Everything else came from the shackle kits and Ace Hardware.

I notice some paint has already flaked off the leaf springs. This probably happened during shipping. I don't spray undercoating directly on leaf springs........do I?
Just touch-up with black spray paint ?
 
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Roert42

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The ranger leaf springs have different sizes for the eye hole. At least mine does.
Couldn’t put it in backwards, bolts would not fit.

older models may have varied
 

Paisano

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Ok.Thanks for commenting on that. I was wondering about the reverse fitment of these new springs.
 

Paisano

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I worked 3 days on this leaf spring replacement with a broken finger. Urgent Care took X-Rays and confirmed this today.
 

pjtoledo

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congratulations, you're normal.
 

Paisano

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Well......I got other repairs I wanted to work on. I might have to wait a few weeks on those.
 

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