replacing 99 ranger auto transmission(3rd time)

[koths211]

so I found this other thread and they just stopped without really throwing the answer in my face....heres the link

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79775

I am having all of the same symptoms...

heres a quick rundown if u don't wanna click the link...

put 3x transmissions in truck...did everything right...

TC is in all the way (had fluid in it when it was put in)

bellhousing went right up to the block no issues...

added 2 quarts of fluid, checked dip stick

said it didn't need anymore....checked it again a while later....

said the same thing...

bottom line... TRUCK DOES NOT ENGAGE IN ANY GEAR!!!

this is the 3rd transmission that's done this to me...really want this truck finished soon and getting dam tired of working on it...the help or the answer would be greatly appreciated....

 

[FritzTKatt]

If you only have 2qts in the trans that's your #1 problem. Fill it up. The dipstick is meant to be read while running and warm. So the fluid level will drop a good bit when running (sucked into the ports and passages), and the expansion is menial in this case. If there's no "off/cold" scale on the dipstick, then I'd try adding 1/8" increments on the dipstick until you reach full while running.

Trans won't work without enough fluid, besides burning itself out.

 

[koths211]

Reply

when you first put the trans fluid in...the trans should basically suck the pan dry??? correct??? I added 2 quarts to begin with...started the engine and let it warm up...repeatedly checked the dip stick and the trans had not sucked up a single drop from the pan...I think I got another dud...maby???idk...I have another lined up to try tomorrow so we will see...

any other ideas??

 

[Mac]

The 2000 owner's manual shows 9.9 qts for the 2.5 auto and 10.0 qts for other 4x2's and 10.3 for 4x4's.
Dave

 

[koths211]

Reply...MAC

The 2000 owner's manual shows 9.9 qts for the 2.5 auto and 10.0 qts for other 4x2's and 10.3 for 4x4's.
Dave

MAC...so the transmission that was in the truck yesterday...

before I installed it, I installed a new filter, gasket, and tail shaft seal...

I drained out most if not all of the fluid...

remember this is a junkyard transmission....

I have a warranty so I removed it last night and going to grab another one tomorrow after work...im going to put a yolk in the tail end and mechanics wire it in so I do not lose any fluid what so ever..same for the converter...

anything else I should do or not do before installing in the truck on Saturday morning???

 

[koths211]

and is there anything I should really look at on the transmission or the truck itself before I pull the trans and put it in mine? I know to check fluid...smell it....and check if its leaking....anything else?

 

[exbass94]

The transmission pan holds about 4 quarts of fluid. If you have only two quarts in it, it may not be enough for the pick-up on the filter to even suck any fluid from the pan.

 

[koths211]

reply

when I was testing it I probly put a total of 3....maby 3.25 tops into it...I thought it it should have picked up by then...oh well...getting another tomorrow....does any one have any tips on how to not screw anything up when I drop it at the junk yard?

 

[V8RangerBoy]

You are checking the level with the engine running, in park/neutral, correct?

You said you put a filter in the third trans you installed, but did you put one in the first two? Junkyards will generally remove the pan and filter, and if you do not reinstall a filter, the suction side of the pump will not be able to pick up fluid and you won't get any engagement. It's like trying to suck up water with a hole in your straw.

Also, the junkyards will often drain the converter. The pan and converter will hold well over 5 qts, probably more like 7. I don't have service info pulled up, but I just finished overhauling a 5R55E and a full rebuild is around 11qts. If you only put two in, that will not be enough.

When you are bolting the bellhousing up, are you making sure that you can still wiggle the converter? With the bellhousing completely tightened up, you should still be able to grab the converter studs and wiggle them back and forth in the flex plate. This ensures that the converter is not binding in the pump. As I said, junkyards will often remove and drain the converter and if they do not get it in all the way, the front pump can easily be damaged when you bolt it up to the block.

It is very, very unlikely that all 3 trans you have tried have internal problems. For the sake of testing, it is OK to overfill a trans some. It's better to overfill the trans and have to get some fluid back out than go driving around with it low.

What was the original problem with your first trans?

 

[koths211]

reply

I had to pull the transmission out of the truck at the junk yard.it was full of fluid .and had the filter on it.I left the fluid from that trans in the converter and put fresh fluid in the trans after it was installed...and my original trans had some kinda brass broken and falling out of the converter side....near the input shaft... and I think the second one was junk to begin with...and number 3 is well old...#4 tomorrow...I'll post an update tomorrow afterwards....

 

[koths211]

reply

And yes I can still wiggle the converter ..

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Hm, I'm curious what will happen with #4. Something is not square here.

If the trans is filled to the correct level (and mechanically healthy), second and reverse (in most trans) are purely mechanical. Even with no electrical input, the manual valve in the valve body is still capable of directing fluid to the correct circuits required for second and reverse gears. This is essentially a 'limp home' function of sorts.

A quick check for pump flow is to remove a cooler line somewhere and see if fluid comes out. This verifies pump flow, but unfortunately does not verify main line pressure. Checking main line pressure isn't too big of deal. You need a gauge capable of about 200 psi with a 1/8" NPT end. The test port is on the driver side of the case, a few inches behind the main electrical connector. There is also a test port on the other side of the case, but that is for testing EPC solenoid pressure output and isn't relative at this point.

This may sound odd, but I've seen it happen before - are you sure the problem is in the trans? I had a truck come to our shop that supposedly had trans problems, and it turned out that all of the bolts had came out/sheared in the ring gear and the ring gear was just freewheeling on the carrier.