replaced ignition cylinder and Truck will not turn over.

[rangerdreams]

Good afternoon fellow Rangers, i recently broke my key to my 1995 2.3 ltr ford ranger truck in the ignition cylinder. I replaced ignition key cylinder but now truck does not turn over. there seems to be some aftermarket Bolt security system with a pass key attached to a female thingy below the steering column. The key light would flash when key was removed but now it doesnt flash when inserted. I think is has something to do with turning on the truck. I dont know what this is but in the past when truck wouldnt turn over i would remove key and insert again and it would turn over/on. Any ideas and any info would be greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and now have to take the bus to work.

I will post pics of Bolt security system and the Key Fob when I return home. Radio and accessories lights all work when I turn key cyclinder on but it just not turn on the truck. I checked fuses and relays and they seem to be ok. One thing i did not do was disconnect negative terminal when i replaced ignition key cylinder. I was also thinking off replacing ignition switch but wanted to test that before i buy a new one and replace.

Thanks for your time and insights.

 

[Ranger850]

Does Your truck have "anti-theft". IF you original key has a chip or is programmed to the truck, you will have to get the new key programmed for the truck. k

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

1995 Ranger could be ordered with a Factory Alarm system, part of Keyless entry system, do you have keyless entry, Fobs?
It will have a THEFT LIGHT on the dash, does it?

This Alarm system did have an anti-tamper switch in the ignition key housing, which would trip the alarm if ignition cylinder was removed
But would get horn and flashing lights which you do not mention
Alarm is called the RAP Module in Rangers

Other than the Alarm system there would be no reason changing the cylinder and key would cause a no start
key and cylinder are NOT the ignition switch
Ignition switch is under the steering column above brake pedal area
The key turns a gear that slides the actuator rod inside the steering column
The actuator rod then Slides the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

If you changed the cylinder because key wasn't turning or was sticking then problem may not have been the key/cylinder, it could be the actuator rod or ignition switch

The wire on the cylinder housing is for "Key in ignition" warning chime so you don't lock keys in the vehicle, can't prevent starter activation or engine function

Simple drawing of how all steering column keys work: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xrt2Sfuwka4/T0kPDsZSp_I/AAAAAAAAGMg/HzdJgFClnNs/s640/steeringcollum_diagram.jpg

"Key in ignition" contact looks like this: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/img_0865-jpg.90165/
When key is in the lock that pin is Grounded
If drivers door is opened a chime would sound


If you have an automatic transmission try shifting to Neutral and see if it starts, Shift cable can get loose so no start in PARK

Google: Ford Ranger loose shifter
Common issue on Ford trucks in general

 

[rangerdreams]

Original key for ignition switch does not have chip in key housing but the anti theft device (i think that is what it is) "Bolt security system" below the dash has a fob key. I dont know what the BOLT security black box is for. I just know if FOB key isnt inserted it does not start truck before I changed the Key cylinder.

 

[rangerdreams]

The dash does not have flashing light but the Bolt security system does have flashing light below the steering column. Does that make sense?

Welcome to TRS

1995 Ranger could be ordered with a Factory Alarm system, part of Keyless entry system, do you have keyless entry, Fobs?
It will have a THEFT LIGHT on the dash, does it?

This Alarm system did have an anti-tamper switch in the ignition key housing, which would trip the alarm if ignition cylinder was removed
But would get horn and flashing lights which you do not mention
Alarm is called the RAP Module in Rangers

Other than the Alarm system there would be no reason changing the cylinder and key would cause a no start
key and cylinder are NOT the ignition switch
Ignition switch is under the steering column above brake pedal area
The key turns a gear that slides the actuator rod inside the steering column
The actuator rod then Slides the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

If you changed the cylinder because key wasn't turning or was sticking then problem may not have been the key/cylinder, it could be the actuator rod or ignition switch

The wire on the cylinder housing is for "Key in ignition" warning chime so you don't lock keys in the vehicle, can't prevent starter activation or engine function

Simple drawing of how all steering column keys work: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xrt2Sfuwka4/T0kPDsZSp_I/AAAAAAAAGMg/HzdJgFClnNs/s640/steeringcollum_diagram.jpg

"Key in ignition" contact looks like this: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/img_0865-jpg.90165/
When key is in the lock that pin is Grounded
If drivers door is opened a chime would sound


If you have an automatic transmission try shifting to Neutral and see if it starts, Shift cable can get loose so no start in PARK

Google: Ford Ranger loose shifter
Common issue on Ford trucks in general

Thank you Ron I'll play with it when i get home this evening and see if black wire on cylinder is installed correctly. it does chime when i have key inserted.

 

[Ranger850]

Is the "Bolt" Security System an aftermarket device?

 

[RonD]

Yes, it is certainly not a Ford system

Can't find any reference to "bolt" anti-theft

Probably need to get a part number off the "black box" to get install manual to see how to shut it off
Can't just unplug these

 

[rangerdreams]

Thank you Ron. I'll update tomorrow once i play with it. I'll proly just call a mobile mechanic and see what they say and then update post. Thanks again for your help

 

[rangerdreams]

Is the "Bolt" Security System an aftermarket device?

Yes i think its a after market system but ranger does not have alarm.

 

[Ranger850]

That could be whats stopping you. I would try to remove or bypass that system.

 

[rangerdreams]

That could be whats stopping you. I would try to remove or bypass that system.

yes i was thinking the same thing but i dont want to start cutting wires that i dont know what they go to. I will update once i figure it out.

Thanks

 

[rangerdreams]

Good Morning fellow Rangers, so after the artic blast and the warm up thereafter I had some time during the holidays to troubleshoot my ignition issue. Mobile mechanic wanted to charge me up to $300-500 to take a look at it. I respectfully declined the offer and proceeded to educate myself about my 2.3 ltr Ranger.

In short the Bolt security device/box that had wire spices and was connected to harness underneath dash that I mentioned earlier was some sort of starter interrupter/security system. I called the number on the Bolt System box that was underneath the dash but it was no longer a working number. After inspecting the box and following alot of wires underneath the dash I noticed the chip board had burn markings and the solder connecting the circuits was discolored. Therefore I reasoned that signal or electrical current was not passing to Bolt Box and then to the ignition circuit when FOB key that plugged into it.

Relays and fuses were good. I thought maybe one was busted since I did not disconnect negative cable when I replaced ignition but I was lucky they were good. I have to learn how to test relays better. I just switched them out with others similar ones in the engine compartment. The led light was not on where previously it was flashing when the FOB key was not inserted. I traced the electrical splices and I noticed there was a pink/red with blue wire that was the hot wire. I cut it the spice and twisted it to other pink with blue wire and Voilia!!!! it started. I just cut the other spices and wires that connected to the BOLT box wires and wrapped the ends with tape. I temporarily wrapped the twisted connection with black electrical tape. I now have to educate myself on how to join these wires and use a crimping tool and connector to do a good connection.

Anyways I wanted to post pictures so people can see what I'm rambling about but I have to educate myself on how to post pics on this forum.

Nonetheless, thank you for yalls help. I also washed her and detailed her on the inside since I neglected and abused her with the ignition issue. Take care of your ladies, they take care of you.

Question??? Where would I find the color coded wiring diagrams of my 1995 2.3 Ranger. The Haynes Manual I have does not have colored listing on the wires and the exhibits in the last part are hard to decipher with just letters denoting the wiring and color coded wires info. Thanks hope that makes since.

 

[RonD]

You want a 1995 Ford Ranger EVTM(electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual)

Ford sends out Shop Manual Sets for every model every year to dealer shops
One the books in each set is the EVTM for that one model, and its often sold separately

Like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273446359012

It will list wiring for all Ranger sub-models and engines, and all option wiring
Location and colors, so their Dealers could troubleshoot new models under warranty

These are basically Free to use, because you can re-sell them when you are done with them unlike "Haynes" general repair manuals
Just like the person you buy it from now, there will be someone else that has a 1995 Ranger and needs one when you want to sell it

EDIT:
Ford renamed EVTM in 1999 to "Wiring Diagrams"
So 1998 Ranger EVTM
1999 Ranger Wiring Diagrams

 

[rangerdreams]

Yes RonD like that one. Perfect.

Thank you for quick and insightful replies.