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Replace Lower Control Arm (2000 2.5l w/coil springs)


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2000
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Manual
The following pertains to my 2000 2.5L w/coil springs.
I couldn't take the groaning or creaking during turning anymore so I finally decided to take a look at my front suspension and diagnose the problem.
All of the boots on all of my ball joints were destroyed. The boots can be replaced if the joints are in decent shape. But this was not the case.
Both of my lower ball joints were in extremely bad shape (ball visibly worn and scored).

So I ordered up a set of Moog Upper Control Arms and Dorman Lower Control Arms from Advance (thanks again Amy for the discount!) and got to work.

*****************************************
What you will need:
  • Spring Compressor set. Advance Auto Parts rents them for free (deposit required)
  • A (very small) Pitman Arm puller. Advance Auto Parts rents them for free (deposit required)
  • A torque wrench ($20 from Harbor Freight and tools)
  • PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench! Maybe both. Maybe multiple cans (if you're from New England or near the beach)
  • I also recommend a 3ft lug wrench, metric impact socket set, and a solid adjustable wrench or two for those places where sockets just won't go.
*****************************************

Note: before even attempting to remove any bolts or nuts I highly recommend drenching them in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. It makes life easy.
*****************************************
Removing the Lower Control Arm
This process is a bit more complicated than the uppers.
Note: The method I used is NOT the proper way to do this. But it is the easy way. You should compress the spring BEFORE removal so as not to kill yourself, or strip bolt threads which is just as bad. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
  1. Loosen the lugs, jack up the truck, secure it on jack stands, and remove the wheel.
  2. Remove the shock absorber. A "shock removal tool" should be included in the spring compressor kit. It is basically a socket that fits over the top of the shock bar to keep it from turning as you loosen the mounting nut.
    a) Using the shock tool, remove the mounting nut and bushing from the top of the shock.

    b) Remove the two lower shock mounting nuts from the underside of the LCA.

    c) Pull out the shock through the bottom of the LCA.
  3. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control arm. Be sure to hold the top while you remove the bottom nut or it will just spin in place.

  4. If you're trying to do this the "right" way, then use the spring compressor now to compress the spring before you remove the LCA bolts. If not, then skip this step. Personally, I had the hardest time getting the spring compressor up inside the spring because it was like 20°F in my garage and my dexterity was nonexistent.
  5. Position the jack under the far side of the LCA (away from wheels) to support it during removal.

    *At this point you may want to disconnect the tie-rod to make it easier to move the knuckle away from the car and pull the LCA out. If you have 4wd do NOT do this. In fact... use a jack (or block of wood ;))to support the steering knuckle so that you do not damage the CV joints.
  6. Remove the cotter pin and Castle nut from the LCA where the ball joint connects to the steering knuckle.

    Note: whenever you remove an old cotter pin, it is good practice to replace it with a new one.
  7. Loosen the LCA pivot nuts and bolts and remove them. Those of you doing this the "easy way" now is when you should fear for your life. Be sure to stay clear of the LCA in case the jack supporting it gives/falls over.

  8. Drop the inside (away from wheels) of the LCA to the ground, remove the coil spring, and use the pitman arm puller (or hammer) to remove the LCA from the knuckle
  9. Remove the bump stop from the old LCA and bolt it on the new one that you are about to install.


Installing the Lower Control Arm
Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Here is a few points to help it go smoothly.

If you removed the LCA "the easy way" then now is when you should compress the spring. Use a 3 ft lug wrench and an extension bar to tighten the compressor around the spring. Also, Place a block of wood under the tip end of the coil to give you something to hold it in place and use your body weight to hold it there as you apply all that torque.
btw... if anyone is wondering whether it is REALLY worth it to do this the "easy way" the answer is yes. I ****ed around trying to appropriately put the spring compressor on the mounted spring for about an hour and a half before I gave up.

The best way to install the LCA is to do the following
  1. Put the compressed spring up into place and push the threads of the spring compressor through the hole where the shock bushing goes. Make sure the correct end of the shock is on the bottom (the flat part goes on top).
  2. Place a washer over the end of the spring compressor and thread a nut on there to keep it in place. This is will hold the spring in place giving you two hands free to position the LCA for installation.

  3. Install the ball joint into the knuckle (no castle nut yet).
  4. Position the LCA so the pivot bolt holes are aligned and slip the bolts in. Make sure the coil spring is positioned appropriately; the tip end should sit in a grove in the mounting surface of the LCA. This will seat the spring correctly and keep it from turning as you decompress the spring.

  5. Make sure the castle nuts are tight and cotter pins installed. Check every bolt and make sure a nut is installed on it, then replace the wheel, lower the truck and torque all bolts down to spec.
  6. Decompress the spring, remove the spring compressor and replace the shock.
That's it! Good Luck!
 


cajunman87

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why did you replace the lower control arm? a good hammer knocks that lower ball joint right out. you wouldn't have needed a coil compressor or have to dissassmeble that much stuff, seems like you caused yourself a lot of extra work.
 
Joined
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2000
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Engine Size
2.5L
Transmission
Manual
why did you replace the lower control arm? a good hammer knocks that lower ball joint right out. you wouldn't have needed a coil compressor or have to dissassmeble that much stuff, seems like you caused yourself a lot of extra work.
oh yea i forgot to mention that a rock took out a chunk of my passerger's side LCA and my bushings were falling apart.
the driver's side seemed ok but I figured that since I was replacing 3 of the 4 control arms already I might as well just do all around.
 
Last edited:

cajunman87

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Manual
ah, gotcha that sucks. well good write up.
 
Joined
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Messages
42
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Age
38
Location
Virginia
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.5L
Transmission
Manual
ah, gotcha that sucks. well good write up.
ty

BTW: those Dorman LCA's that I bought use cheap zinc bolts for the lower shock mount. and guess what? I broke one :(

If I had to do it again I would get better LCA's OR take a grinding wheel to the bolts BEFORE I put them on and weld some grade 8 steel ones on there.

I wound up having to take them back off and replace the bolts. This time I removed the coil spring the proper way and I wound up breaking the POS spring compressor from Advance. The threads on it just let go and snapped off.
 

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