Removing 4.0 OHV cam sensor from cam synchronizer

[Shran]

I seem to be finding conflicting information about this topic. The truck in question is a 1994 Mazda B4000 that has the early style cam synchronizer with the window on the top. Someone prior to me broke the electrical connector off the back of the sensor and it's just dangling. I would like to fix this and have found information regarding how to remove the sensor on 95 up but not one single post about my style of sensor. It appears that there is a metal cap holding the sensor in place instead of the sensor simply being screwed to the top of the synchronizer.

Sooo with that being said...before I tear it all apart... RockAuto, AutoZone and Advance have a sensor listed by itself but it looks different than what I can see. The connector comes straight out the back instead of at a 90 degree angle. Also maybe looks like it won't fit under the metal cap.

I may just be able to fix the one I have, anyone run into this situation before? Rather not have to buy a whole synchronizer if just the sensor can be replaced.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I just went through this exact thing. CEL came on, checked back there and cap was broken off wires dangling. Here's how I got through it.

Mine was squeak as well, so I swapped out the whole unit.

Read the few how to's I could find, and hunted down a decent cam synchro.

I read horror stories about the dorman units, same with the A-1 Cardone, and Ford discontinued making them. Tracked down an API performance cam syncro on ebay ($167).

I took a bunch of pics too I can post if you like. Mines a '93 4.0, the plug does a 90 degree upwards turn.

I think I was able to track down the cap, but would recommend juts swapping out the whole thing, they go bad.

I didn't use the alignment tool, due to not finding one for my year. truck fired right up and runs like a champ no CEL.

I took my time, probably 8hrs over the span of 1 week. It went smooth, did the lower intake gaskets too.

 

[Shran]

Well I found that you can indeed remove the sensor. Two screws and it comes out as I suspected. Now I either need to repair this one somehow, or find a replacement... looks like maybe I can solder the wires, pack it full of hot glue or epoxy and be good to go.

I really do not want to replace the whole thing, the synchronizer itself works fine, the plug is just broke off.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

My bad if if implied otherwise, but yes you can remove just the sensor. I had trouble finding the correct replacement, but they are out there. Besides that my synchro was squeaking, so I replaced the whole thing. Glad I did too, it had a lot of up and down play compared to the new one.

Looks like your has the 90 degree bend in the plug as well. Some just go straight out no bend. I think as long as it has the bend and sight glass you should be fine.

I have yet to receive a non fitting part from rock auto.

IDK about the solder and epoxy job, these things are pretty sensitive. But I guess it wont hurt to try if you got time, it will work or not, and wont cause damage if it doesn't.

Dont buy Dorman!

 

[Shran]

RockAuto has just the sensor listed for the '94 Mazda and no synchronizer but the sensor appears to be for '95 up

Looking at '93 and '94 Explorers, I can get the correct synchronizer but not the sensor. Odd.

I have placed probably hundreds of orders with RockAuto and am very careful about what I order. I am very cautious about ordering anything that doesn't have a picture to compare with... I have gotten burned multiple times with parts that are just not even close. Ford is notorious for using a part for a year or two or even less than a year sometimes, very frustrating.

Reading through other threads about replacing these, it seems that there are two conclusions people reach about these:

1 - a failed/disconnected sensor will burn up your engine over time because the fuel timing is off, or
2 - it's not that big of a deal, the sensor just reports that the synchronizer is spinning

Not sure what to believe, ran good without it, and the sensor just has a button on the bottom similar to a distributor rotor. Makes me think that #2 is indeed correct or at least close to the truth.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

RockAuto has just the sensor listed for the '94 Mazda and no synchronizer but the sensor appears to be for '95 up

Looking at '93 and '94 Explorers, I can get the correct synchronizer but not the sensor. Odd.

I have placed probably hundreds of orders with RockAuto and am very careful about what I order. I am very cautious about ordering anything that doesn't have a picture to compare with... I have gotten burned multiple times with parts that are just not even close. Ford is notorious for using a part for a year or two or even less than a year sometimes, very frustrating.

Reading through other threads about replacing these, it seems that there are two conclusions people reach about these:

1 - a failed/disconnected sensor will burn up your engine over time because the fuel timing is off, or
2 - it's not that big of a deal, the sensor just reports that the synchronizer is spinning

Not sure what to believe, ran good without it, and the sensor just has a button on the bottom similar to a distributor rotor. Makes me think that #2 is indeed correct or at least close to the truth.

Yes I had the same problem, 93-94 are different and the more difficult to find parts for years its seems. I had to hunt down my synchro off of ebay, but thankfully it looked and felt of good quality and I have had no problems since the swap.

I think both are kind of true.

1) it is bad for your engine, but more in matter of its running in open loop the whole time. Also the synchro itself may fail soon after, which is what drives the oil pump.

2) Its no biggie, if its not squeaking, again it will just stay in open loop. Some versions don't even have cam synchro (I think that also dont have egr)

I did a crap ton of research on this, dreading getting the wrong/ defective part or messing up the swap. It ended up being no sweat, the lower intake gaskets was more difficult , which I did while I had it apart.

 

[Shran]

I did an extreme ghetto fix on it last night. Drilled out the rivets that hold the sensor onto the cover (it is NOT simply a button like I imagined, there's a magnet and all kinds of stuff there.) Soldered the wires back together, covered the whole mess in liquid electrical tape, let that dry, and then reattached the connector part with a combination of hot glue, super glue and rivets. I'll keep an eye on it, if it falls apart I'll track down a new sensor.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I did an extreme ghetto fix on it last night. Drilled out the rivets that hold the sensor onto the cover (it is NOT simply a button like I imagined, there's a magnet and all kinds of stuff there.) Soldered the wires back together, covered the whole mess in liquid electrical tape, let that dry, and then reattached the connector part with a combination of hot glue, super glue and rivets. I'll keep an eye on it, if it falls apart I'll track down a new sensor.

Lol nice, yep that'll at least buy you some time to parts hunt. Hopefully it works!