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remote kill switch

Angie

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Has anyone ever used or wired in 1 of these into a vehicle before?

if you have do you recommend them and how well do they work?

will they work ok in a between battery/starter/high output alternator setup? wired chevy style with the single wire.

this will be wired at the battery on that circuit.

I need a kill switch as my battery draws when it is not running and or parked.


 


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Dirtman

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Damn Amazon links suck... Look up "Priority Start Battery Saver"

Its an automatic switch, disconnects the battery once drops to a certain level and then to turn the battery back on you just hit the headlights to wake it up and start the truck as normal.
 

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Link worked for me. I need to buy several of these. Maybe next decade...lol.
 

Angie

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interesting dirtman, however, it is computerized and needs outside power to make it go on and off. I am looking more to manual on/off as this truck is a wired nightmare and is powered by a cat style 4D battery that also powers a mobile sound system. there will be too many other things to play havoc with that system.

Very interesting unit though. thanks


original idea was just a manual throw switch, then i seen this when looking for other style. cheers
 
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Roert42

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Most kill switches are wiring to open the ignition/ fuel pump circuit, something like that. If you want it to completely disconnect the batter from everything you would have to run the primary ground or + wire through a switch or relay before going to anything else.

One thing you could do would to wire the + to a relay before anything else, then have a switch, drawing power from before the relay, to open and close the relay. That way would have to run a 2ga wire into the cab for a switch.
 

Roert42

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Something like this, so the only thing getting power is the new relay and kill switch you install. also there is small load so you would not need a very large gauge wire.
64722
 

Dirtman

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If you just want a full blown battery disconnect why complicate it... Just get a on/off knob. They make them to mount directly to the battery terminal. I have one on my little boat, just drop the switch and battery is connected. No need for any other special nonsense?
 

Angie

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hi roert42, way to much to wire a 2GA into the cab. I will take a pic of what I am up against I guess.... I did order a switch from amazon, now that our province is back to mandatory masks again... I don't need the hassles and may as well order from home...

this wiring system isn't stock, it's in a 83 V8 build so most of the electronics of a standard wiring harness does not apply. I just want to separate the battery from starter/alternator circuit. thanks though
 

Fast Eddie

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I have a RV. It has a Use/Store switch. It cuts 12v power to the RVs 12v electrical system when the RV is in storage so it doesn't drain the house (RV) batter(ies). It's basically a solenoid operated by rocker switch mounted near the steps. Sounds like it may be what you're looking for? You can mount the solenoid in the engine bay and wire the switch to someplace in the cab. There is a hot wire from the batteries to the solenoid which only draws power when you operate the switch.

I would snap pics for you but the solenoid is under the bed and that's a PITA to remake. Let me look around and see if I can find something on the web. It'll look like the old satrt selenoids of days gone by. The two yellow wires at the bottom are the hot/ground wires I mentioned to operate the solenoid.
64723
64724
 
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RonD

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If its an early 1980's then the 12v Power Distribution is one of the larger posts on the starter relay(solenoid) on the inner fender

Battery positive is connected to that post......AND alternator, ignition switch, fuse boxes, ect................

You can put several of those wires onto a second 50 or 100 amp relay, with a larger cable to Battery positive post on starter relay

Leave ignition switch wire on battery positive post on starter relay
Then when you turn on ignition the added relay closes and connects other systems back to battery positive cable.

The main AMP draw, 60-75 amps, is the starter motor, who's wiring is still intact

The alternator can do 80-120 amps but usually not all at once, lol, but if you are worried about it then leave its wire with battery positive on starter relay
 

Angie

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i will try to explain a bit more in depth.

here is a pic of the battery terminals, and the black tape is where i did have a (cheap) kill switch wired. but it was sending short so i took it out and bolted the battery wire direct to the BMW fuse panel, see next pic

(where the black tape is, is where i will add the new kill switch)
 

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Angie

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this pics is the power / fuse section that runs the stereos and the other added stuff in the box of the truck, the large missing wire is where the starter wire hooks up.
 

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Angie

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here is the top of the stereo system that is tri amped and full crossovers with 1/3 octave EQ, cheers
 

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Fast Eddie

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It's unclear what you want to accomplish. Kill power to the vehicle or just the audio equipment. From the first pic, it would seem audio. A solenoid is all I have to handle, what looks like, 4 and 6AWG hot wires. Hope that helps.
 

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