Rebuilding a Power Rack and Pinion

[Henry68]

I have a new rack and pinion seal kit ready to install but my 1999 factory manual does not provide any information like torque specs, pinion preload settings or even a simple schematic.

Does anyone have any schematics or specifications to rebuild a 1999 or similar ford power rack?

Thanks, Henry
1999 Ranger 2wd Reg Cab

 

[Dirtman]

I have the factory ford shop manual. It tells you how to replace it, not rebuild it. Dunno what manual would have that info.

 

[91stranger]

Pinions are a beeotch… You will need an old I-beam style torque wrench just to figure out the preload on the pinion nut before you remove it. Make sure you mark the pinion nut with a good paint marker. I used a permanent marker and it didn't leave a good mark so I was screwed.

I-beam procedure can be googled. I don't remember the exact procedure so I don't want to give the wrong info. That pinion backlash is VERY important so don't take it for granted or you'll be buying a new rear end or guts again shortly.....

 

[sheep herder]

Pinions are a beeotch… You will need an old I-beam style torque wrench just to figure out the preload on the pinion nut before you remove it. Make sure you mark the pinion nut with a good paint marker. I used a permanent marker and it didn't leave a good mark so I was screwed.

I-beam procedure can be googled. I don't remember the exact procedure so I don't want to give the wrong info. That pinion backlash is VERY important so don't take it for granted or you'll be buying a new rear end or guts again shortly.....

Rack and pinion steering, not rear axle.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I think most rack and pinions have been remove and replace for many years.

I did one way back in the 80's I believe... it had seals deep in the rack housing and required special seal drivers. It's the only one I ever did... remove and replace ever since.

 

[19Walt93]

We had to rebuild racks until well into the 80's. I hated doing them. The aluminum housings that Ford created to replace the earlier TRW racks put the end to overhauling them. Fairmonts and Mustangs would come in complaining that the power steering was stiff turning one way when cold and we'd know the nylon seals had cut a groove in the housing. Once it needed a housing a rebuild cost more than a new rack.

 

[Henry68]

I have the factory ford shop manual. It tells you how to replace it, not rebuild it. Dunno what manual would have that info.

Thanks for checking, my shop manual says the same. There has to be some info out there? I think the 98-01 Explorers used a similar rack and I may cross reference those manuals to see if any info turns up.

 

[Henry68]

We had to rebuild racks until well into the 80's. I hated doing them. The aluminum housings that Ford created to replace the earlier TRW racks put the end to overhauling them. Fairmonts and Mustangs would come in complaining that the power steering was stiff turning one way when cold and we'd know the nylon seals had cut a groove in the housing. Once it needed a housing a rebuild cost more than a new rack.

It sounds like the internal aluminum housing needs to be in really good condition, without any visible damage before even attempting an at-home rebuild and if you accidentally scratch anything while installing the replacement seals (easy to do), you may not know it until you put the vehicle back on the road.

 

[19Walt93]

You need a special tool to size the nylon rings, too. They come big enough to slide over the pinion and the tool slides over them and crushes them down to the proper diameter. I suspect if you tear it down for an overhaul you'll end up buying a reman and you'll be out the price of the repair parts you bought.

 

[Dirtman]

Not to mention they probably wont accept the old unit as a core if it's in peices so you'll have to eat that charge too...

I say return the rebuild kit... As much as I am pro do it yourself, sometimes things just aint worth trying to fix.

 

[Henry68]

You need a special tool to size the nylon rings, too. They come big enough to slide over the pinion and the tool slides over them and crushes them down to the proper diameter. I suspect if you tear it down for an overhaul you'll end up buying a reman and you'll be out the price of the repair parts you bought.

Not to mention they probably wont accept the old unit as a core if it's in peices so you'll have to eat that charge too...

I say return the rebuild kit... As much as I am pro do it yourself, sometimes things just aint worth trying to fix.

I'm going to tear into it next week just for the hell of it so wish me some luck, guys. If you find a source for a schematic, send it on. I'll post an update.