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Rear brakes

James Morse

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I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this:

Couple questions.
1. Some of the sets have brake grease with them, this does not. Do I need brake grease, if so, what's an example of a good one, and where do you put it? Obviously not on drums and rotors...
2. I think I will have to back off the shoes to get the drum off. Is it correct that I would go in the back of the brake assembly where there is a rubber stopper, and turn the wheel whichever way loosens them?


I'm also getting these https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/SB1428-9404-H9404-Speed-Bleeder_p_26.html and the bleeder bag combo which I suppose you could make easily enough but it's cheap. https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/Speed-Bleeder-Bag-Hose-Combo_p_57.html

I have the special spring tools.
 


Ranger850

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You're not going to save any $$$ by NOT getting the grease. If it moves, slides, rolls, wiggles or shakes, LUBE IT.
 

James Morse

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My credo
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well I'm not trying to save money... the other kit is actually cheaper, that had the grease, but it doesn't have the wheel cyl's that's why I'm getting this one. Certainly I can pick up lithium grease or whatever at the store if I don't have it. I'd assume I want some hi-temp type stuff
 

Ranger850

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well I'm not trying to save money... the other kit is actually cheaper, that had the grease, but it doesn't have the wheel cyl's that's why I'm getting this one. Certainly I can pick up lithium grease or whatever at the store if I don't have it. I'd assume I want some hi-temp type stuff
They sell it in little packe at the register of almost every parts store. I did a Brake job this weekend and got some brake lube and anti-seize for less than $2 each. perfect sixe for a single job.
 

James Morse

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will get the packets of grease, thanks!

I'm a believer in Anti-Sieze
 

oldandintheway

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You will find that there is a particular way to free up the drums. Can probably find it on youtube.
The adjuster wheel you will find{ after removing the rubber plug} has a little bar type thing that will only let you turn it one way. You must insert a small screwdriver and push the bar away fron the star wheel then you will be able to turn the star wheel in the right direction to loosen the drums.
Hope this helps. Ed
 

James Morse

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My credo
"I got a full tank of gas and I'm on the road to nowhere!"
youtube is saying tap around the drum with a mallet so that would be plan A

ah so it's a ratchet and you have to release it to go looser. that would make sense. thanks, it helps a lot.
 

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I don't grease anything inside drum brakes. The adjuster wheel gets copper anti-seize applied to the threads... that's it. Discs need a little more lube in certain places but I don't get crazy with it there either, it gets washed out pretty fast. Other than the obvious need for it on the slide pins, I think it's just a gimmick used to sell more grease.
 

pjtoledo

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the good brake greases tend to repel dust & contaminates
 

Dirt Squirt

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Former brake mechanic with 40 years experience here. On the backing plates for rear brakes, you will find 3 flat dimpled areas for each shoe. Clean these areas with brake cleaner and a wire brush. If they are deeply scored from not being greased previously, grind or file flat or replace backing plates. These are put there from the factory to put a small dab of silicone grease on to ease shoe movement. A little dab will do ya. Rub into dimples with a clean finger. Also, a small dab on top anchor pin where shoe contacts pin. Don't go crazy with grease. After all, it is the brakes.
 

4x4prepper

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I would wait on ordering the speed bleeders, you have 1/4" selected and I think they will probably be 8mm on the cylinders.

A glass jar from pickles or olives will work just as well as the bag. if you are worried about the hose flopping out of the jar, just put the lid on after you punch a hole in it for the hose.

I have tried using speed bleeders, I ended up using regular bleeders, they leak less around the threads when pumping the brakes. Same thing with using vacuum bleeding, good ole' pedal pumping worked best. Though the vacuum pump actually worked, speed bleeders not so much.
 

James Morse

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My credo
"I got a full tank of gas and I'm on the road to nowhere!"
Duh, thought I'd saw it was 1/4 somewhere on the specs, but you could be right. I got the bleeders, actual parts should come tomorrow so I'll know then... it'll be obvious. Now I'm seeing 7/16 some places as the spec. Man, thought I had that covered. Will let you know...
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I use a Mason jar and engine vacuum to bleed brakes and or trans slave. Line from slave to Mason jar lid. Then another line from lid to vacuum source on engine. Just make sure to keep the master full.

20220811_143223.jpg
 

Uncle Gump

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I personally have just gravity bled with great results.

Don't over think it... none of this is rocket science.
 

Jazzer

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I used copper anti-seize on the adjuster threads once and it dried out and prevented auto-adjustments, even wore a groove in the adjusting arm as it tried to turn the star wheel. Now I use silicone grease.
 

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