Rear brakes somewhat fu- but not quite yet -bar

[superj]

i didn't do any ranger stuff this weekend. i tried to buy some thing in san antonio from the flakes on facebutt and craigslist but like always, they put an ad up and stop answering once you make the 2 hour drive to get there. luckily the guy selling lift springs for the wrangler answered so i got 2.5" lift springs and went home and put the fronts on sunday.

 

[James Morse]

Getting ready to do rear brakes.
Symptoms
P-brake doesn't release well, sometimes drags one side
P-brake doesn't hold truck
Loses brake fluid not tons but it goes down maybe 1/2" in 1000 miles which seems like more than it should but it's not pouring out of there or anything like that
Have no idea if ABS is working and not major concern but of course it should work by rights. I don't get any warnings of any kind on the dash.

So I'll get the drums, shoes, and springs, and the special tools. I would assume with 185k miles I would want to replace the drums; especially if they are original which who knows but for the price of the parts it just makes sense to put new to me.

Questions

1. If wheel cyl is leaking, is rebuild (seals) the best way to go with that? I assume when I am working on it I will be able to see if brake fluid is leaking there or not.
2. I realize there's a thumbscrew adjustment to get the brake shoes so they just barely drag on the drum. Is there another adjustment for the P-brake? Like, I've had this issue on probably every car I've had, where the P-brake cable stretches and normally there's a place where the P-brake cable attaches where you can pull more through (usually at bottom of the P-brake handle, in cars) but I don't see this in the videos on my truck unless it's up front at the P-brake pedal? The P-brake aint right and I would assume that adjusting that is part of doing the job?
3. About the differential level. I think it was said the truck needs to be level itself to check this. Does this mean level just sided to side, or does it also have to be level front to back? Is checking that level something I want to do when the truck is up on jackstands or could I just do it anytime?

THANKS

 

[Jazzer]

1.) Most people buy new wheel cylinders- they’re inexpensive. If you have a small drill hone you can DIY. You’ll be able to see if they’re leaking when you take the rubber boot caps off, if not before.

The starwheel adjusters should be taken apart and thoroughly cleaned to bare metal. A high temp silicone based grease such as Silglyde should be used on the inside. These adjusters are left and right specific, so make sure to remember which side they go to.

 

[Bgunner]

2). Yes there is an adjustment for the parking brake cable, mine is located on the drivers side on the outside of the frame so easy access. Keep in mind that I have a '94 and not a '99 like yours.

3). The truck does not need to be perfectly level but a level-ish spot in the driveway will do. You can check the level either way on the ground or on jack stands. I usually just slide under without the stands to check mine.

 

[Roert42]

You do drum brakes a couple times with a screw driver and needle nose pliers, when you end up with a set of drum brake tools you will fell like a nascar pit crew.

I’m not spending money on special tools, this works just fine. Here, just try them.

…. you can’t have these back….. you know that right…..

 

[superj]

those little hooks for pulling the springs into place are the main things to me. using needle nose to pull some of the heavier springs into place sucks but those little tools make drum brake work so easy

 

[James Morse]

So... getting closer to getting the parts... any brand/store I want to use, or, ones I want to stay away from? Talking drums, shoes, springs, wheel cyl's (latter in case I need). Usually, I think, that the drums/shoes/springs come as a set.
Do I have 9" or 10" drums? Seems both were used that year, probably on different models. If I take off a wheel to measure them, am I talking i.d. of the drum?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Remove drum...

Measure distance across opening.

 

[pjtoledo]

if the drums have fins they are 9", 10" have smooth circumferences.

 

[superj]

i think i read that somewhere too /\

 

[Shran]

4.0 trucks/8.8's always have 10" drums, 4 cylinder trucks usually had 7.5's with 9" drums, 2.8/2.9/3.0 could have had either 9" or 10" drums.

If you have to have a minimum of drum brake tools, I would suggest a spring tool for removing and installing the upper springs:

And also an adjuster tool of some sort, MUCH easier than using a screwdriver

For the bottom spring and the round side springs/shoe retainer deals, I use nothing other than a pair of needle nose Vise Grips. I find these three items to be everything I need for drum brake service... and I have a LOT of other drum brake tools at my disposal, I just never need to use them.

 

[James Morse]

Thanks everyone. @Shran where did you get those they look a little diff than some.
Still wondering if any store or brand I should prefer to get, should I just go to Advance or what?
Drums looks smooth looking from outside. Kind of wanted to get the parts before I took off the drum, but I guess I can check wherever it is I should best get them and make sure they have both before I start. Sounds like since mine is 3.0 it could be either size.

 

[gw33gp]

One good thing to know before you get started. You normally need to back off the brake adjustment to take the drum off. If you don't you will most likely have a very difficult time taking the drum off. A ridge can build up on the inside of the drum and will interfere with the shoes as you slide the drum off, if you don't back off the adjustment.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

It takes alot to lock up my rears. The brakes actually work good, although even with one bad rear wheel cylinder.

 

[James Morse]

Are you saying the adjustment that is part of the drum brake or are you talking about an adjustment on the p-brake? Kind of assume you mean the adjustment for the shoes on the brake itself....?