Rear brake proportioning


don4331

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Also I’ve noticed my front rotors are slightly warped. There is a slight pulsing as I slowly come to a complete stop. Will this effect the actual performance of my brakes significantly or is it just a minor inconvenience?
Note: The rotors are part of the hubs on your vintage Ranger, so you a rotor swap is going to require setting up the wheel bearings. Just making sure you are aware of what you are getting into.
 


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RonD

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+1 ^^^

And while separate Rotors have become cheaper, this type, rotor/hub combo, its often worth it to have them "turned"
The rotor/hub is put into a Lathe type machine and shaved(turned) to make them straight again, usually $20-$25 per rotor/hub
This can only be done once as they get too thin to do it again
 

EvanCole45

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+1 ^^^

And while separate Rotors have become cheaper, this type, rotor/hub combo, its often worth it to have them "turned"
The rotor/hub is put into a Lathe type machine and shaved(turned) to make them straight again, usually $20-$25 per rotor/hub
This can only be done once as they get too thin to do it again
Thanks! Would I need to take it to a machine shop to have this done?
 

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In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Some auto parts stores offer that service. Try Napa, Autozone, etc.
 

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+1 ^^^

And most Brake service places, although its a dying art/service, lol
 

don4331

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When I did the rear drums on latest Ranger, the only shop in town which still turns rotors had two week plus wait and the $40/rotor cost which was basically same as ordering new rotors from Rockauto.
 

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If its a separate rotor, not rotor/hub combo then new is the only way to go

After a rotor is Turned it is thinner so it will warp easier if overheated again
If you have an automatic don't ride the brakes going downhill, down shift and let the engine slow you down
Brake harder then let off and let brakes cool down while you speedup going downhill, repeat
Long slow braking = HEAT = warped rotors
 

EvanCole45

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I'd take the brakes apart and look at them before modifying anything. A leaking axle seal or a sticky wheel cylinder can cause what you're getting. If you end up replacing the cylinders make sure they're the same, if you can't get them both from the same brand, pull the rubbers back and measure the diameter of the pistons. I replaced the rear cylinders on a truck years ago and the parts dept ended up getting them from 2 different sources. While that shouldn't have been a problem, one turned out to be the wrong part- it looked identical, bolted right up, but one was slightly bigger than the other and I chased the brake pull for days. Since the truck came in with no brakes I didn't instantly suspect the cylinders.
After pulling apart the brakes, only one one of the shoes was engaging so I’m going to rebuild both drums and see if that fixes it. I’ll probably put the proportioning valve on too so I don’t have to be as careful in the case of panic braking and the valve will be fun for me to mess with.
 


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