rear 8.8 seal replacement help

[runnert]

1995 ranger 4.0l limited slip 8.8
I need to replace my seals. When I am parked on an incline, whichever rear wheel is on the low side of the incline, the wheel seeps axle oil. I checked out the directions of the "bad axle seal" in the teck library, but I am somewhat confused from that article, plus no pics. I have the limited slip which has the clamps on either side of the gears that hold the pinion gear in place. I took the right (looking into the housing) clamp off and understand that there is a bearing there and that holds in the pinion gear.
Questions:
1- Do I take out both clamps and remove the pinion gear?
2- does this release both axles (l & r) so that I can remove them to get to the seals?
3- Do I have to do any special realignment of the pinion when I reassemble it?
4- should I replace anything else in there I should replace while I am at it?
5- Does any of you have step by step instructions with pics?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

runnert

 

[CasesCustoms]

I think that the clamps you are refering to hold in the carrier which has the ring gear on it. If so, DO NOT take these clamps off. You need to remove the carrier cross pin (referred to as the Pinion Shaft in the tech library article). This is the pin that intersects two of your spider gears and goes through the center of the carrer. This will allow you to slide the axle shafts inward and remove the axle shaft c-clips. (NOTE: With a L/S you may need to remove the S-spring but someone else will have to confirm this) With the c-clips removed you can remove the axles (if the brakes and everything else on the outside are out of the way.)

 

[runnert]

Here is my diff. Where is the pinion shaft?

thanks,

runnert

 

[Todd]

The pinion shaft, or cross pin, same thing with two names is located behind that S looking spring. On the carrier you will find a small headed bolt that runs horizontally in orientation. After this bolt is removed the cross pin will slide out of the carrier. Then the above stated steps are preformed to replace the seal.

 

[runnert]

So then I suppose I will need to remove the "S" springs? Do the axles also have the same c-clamps around the ends? In other words, after the carrier pin is out, I push in the axles, pull off the c-clamps, then pull the axle out. To remove the seals, do I use a slide hammer also as mentioned in the article?

Thanks,

runnert

 

[Todd]

So then I suppose I will need to remove the "S" springs? Do the axles also have the same c-clamps around the ends? In other words, after the carrier pin is out, I push in the axles, pull off the c-clamps, then pull the axle out. To remove the seals, do I use a slide hammer also as mentioned in the article?

Thanks,

runnert

Yup.

As for getting the old seal out you dont need a slide hammer, I have used a claw hammer with good results. Just get behind the old seal with the claw and pry that bugger out

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

another good trick is to use the end of the axle shaft where the c clip rides in to pop out the old seal. good luck!

 

[runnert]

Thanks a lot guys. Hopefully that is all the info I need. I will post my outcome later.

runnert.

 

[4x4junkie]

I didn't have to remove the S-spring on mine, there's just enough space to get the clips through past it.

Since it sounds like you loosened the bearing cap bolts, you might want to check them with a torque wrench (70-85 ft-lbs)

 

[arrabil]

If you have a slide hammer already you might want to replace the bearings too while you're at it.

 

[runnert]

I now understand the frustration from the article from the library. I found the tightest fitting socket (8mm) and with hardly much effort, I rounded the head of that bolt. So now I need to extract it by other means. I will keep you posted.

runnert.

 

[runnert]

I just drilled and used an easy out to get the bolt out. But what I am going to do is get a 5/16-18 SHCS, 2" long and turn down the shank to the head, and turn down the end of the bolt to match the diameter of the original. Then thread down to the head. I may need a washer or two. Then use loctight. I have a machine shop here at work and will do it at lunch. Then I can use an allen wrench if I ever have to work on it again (probably not).

runnert.

 

[runnert]

Got it fixed. Here is what I did:

I took a 2" socket head cap screw. Turned down the shank between the threads and the head (since it was not fully threaded) to the od of the threads and ran a 5/16-18 die down all the way. Still you cannot get threads down to the head, but it gets close enough. Then I measured the threaded and smooth portions of the original bolt. I turned down the bolt to .240 and cut the bolt to length. When I installed it, I was not able to use an allen wrench with a loc washer and some loctight.

runnert