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Real 4cyl. part II


Mutant Pony

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Back before the server change I had a post called real 4 cyl.
Recap:


Part II:
The motor all redone ready to go in.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: DE2235E7692E8C: July 5th, 2021

Mutant Pony

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The motor in the car, '77 pinto, I plan to drag race the car and post results and the mods that got it there. The car in race trim will weigh in about 2000 lbs.


The car is on hold as I don't have a heated garage. In the spring the motor has to come back out and a lot of body and chassis work needs to be done.
There is a 350 holley on it in the pics. I also have a 390 that just looks huge.

I haven't run it on the 4bbl yet but, it runs impressive on the 2bbl.
 

ejholmgren

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how high to you plan on spinning it?
 

Wicked_Sludge

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i remember that beast. any estimates on power output?

and just out of curiousity.....what made you go n/a rather than turbo?
 

Mutant Pony

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The first engine is a stock bottom end. I plan on showing people what they can do on a limited budget. It will take a few bumps to 8k.
Later I will build a 5.7 rod bottom end that will run to 9k(bump to 10k).
The Mutant Pony has a 600 cfm 2bbl, I tried a lot of different carbs and that one ran the best. I blew an old used motor up about the fourth bump to 8k. The tack bump is really something you only see in mud/snow. At the strip it will stay a little lower.
The first cam is the Ranger roller, I'm thinking I'll launch about 4500 / shift around 6k.
I'm in need of a good valve cover. I would like to find a Ford Motorsports one (Aluminum).
 

Mutant Pony

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i remember that beast. any estimates on power output?

and just out of curiousity.....what made you go n/a rather than turbo?
I have a turbo kit that I might run later, That has been done though. I have two different write ups of turbo'ed Pintos running in the 10's in the quarter.
I am going to try to hit 15 seconds with no aftermarket parts (other than the Holley). That will require some really presice tuning, and every trick I can find.

We have a computer program that takes the weight of the car, ET, top end speed, and a few other variables and calculates HP. We have tested it to be fairly accurate so, once I've run I can give you a better estimate on HP.

My cage may be here tommorow. I'll post pics if it does. I'm only installing 4 points until or unless the track says I need more. I found that the weakest point (most give) of the Pinto is half way up the b-pillar. You put a four point in and tie the b-pillar to the main hoop and it makes the car real solid.
 

ejholmgren

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2.3T and a big fmic ... blow the doors off that thing on the dunes. :headbang:
 

Jim Oaks

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I just started rewriting the 4-cylinder tech page here at TRS. I could use any info you have on the Ranger's 4-cylinders, mods that can be done and who supplies parts.

Thanks!
 

Dave R

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The 390, once tuned, will work well, it is just about the perfect size for that motor.

Good luck on finding a FMS valve cover.

Solid motor mounts, ouch.
 

Mutant Pony

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Ouch is right. That is an open header as well! It almost brings tears to your eyes just firing up the engine while setting inside.
When it is Race ready it will have exhaust all the way out the back.

When the junkyard sold I had to grab everything I could and find a place to put it. I lost a lot of good stuff. The Pinto motor mounts were in a Van that got crushed. I contemplated grafting in Ranger mounts but, then decided against it.
When the motor progresses it will need better than stock mounts so I went ahead and made solid mounts.
The same goes for the rollbar. the first motor won't make enough torque to tweak the chassis but, the floor pan is bad. There is no sense in replacing the floor pan to stock when it will need to be cut out for the sub frame in the future. It will get sub frame to the front of the springs for now and custom floor pan. The rollbar and front subframe will tie the car together solid. Later it will get rear sub frame, tubs, a narrowed 9", and a 4 link. Some day there will be a 302 or 351c in the car.
 

Mutant Pony

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I've got the Main hoop. I must have ordered the wrong part Number. Thats ok. I only need the main hoop to set up The sub-frame connectors. Well I need to build boxs that will connect the sub-frame connectors, Rollbar and the front of the rear springs.
 


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