2.5L ('98-'01) Ranger 5spd NoCrank-Remote Starts Only

[MotorBoater]

heres what the scanner pulled up

 

[MotorBoater]

around those years Ford started using a system called PATS, don't remember what the acronym means but it's just a chip in the key, if your key looks like the one in THIS link then you do have anti theft, if the plastic part is smaller and the ring slot is centered then you don't have PATS, not all 4 cylinder Rangers apparently got PATS, and I wish my Explorers didn't have it...

I would definitely start with the no crank situation, the start signal goes from the key switch to the body module to the starter solenoid so either there is a problem with key power getting to the module (I believe it's a separate circuit from the power to the multifunction switch from the key) from the key or it's power or ground... unfortunately I only know enough about that system to know it's there and does some stuff not how to troubleshoot it...

 

[MotorBoater]

ok so i spent $400 at Oriellys' i got the OBD1&2 scanner-it was the best one they had on the shelf...and i got a test light as well. i already have a multimeter.. where should I start my diagnosis? the Power Distrubution box? I'd hate myself if i wired it wrong...I know those clusters of red wires were kind of a b***

 

[scotts90ranger]

Ok, no PATS with that key, but with those codes it looks like there might be a ground or power issue to the body module.

On the battery cables, do they have the factory ends or has someone replaced them with those stupid bolt on clamp style quick adapters? The sheet brass battery post clamps SUCK and everyone always just lobs off the wires, strips them and pays $2 for those stupid clamp deals that corrode when you look at them wrong... and it's always one of the small wires that's important that loses connection...

 

[MotorBoater]

I don't have the PATS system

 

[MotorBoater]

So here’s what I got going on.. like I said, I just installed the air conditioner complete with HVAC about a month prior before it died permanently on me. but I didn’t wire it to the relay box yet because I still needed to get the harnesses.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

No offense but you are not listening. Forget about how the truck runs or what you did to the AC or anything else. First you must get it to crank over. I can see by a picture that you do have the starter solenoid that is mounted on the starter. The small wire is the messenger wire. That is what allows 12v to be fed to your starter. As I said before, you must see if that wire has power when key is in start position and clutch in.

 

[MotorBoater]

No offense but you are not listening. Forget about how the truck runs or what you did to the AC or anything else. First you must get it to crank over. I can see by a picture that you do have the starter solenoid that is mounted on the starter. The small wire is the messenger wire. That is what allows 12v to be fed to your starter. As I said before, you must see if that wire has power when key is in start position and clutch in.

Ok that would be a yellow wire i believe, I'm going to try this when I get home from work

 

[MotorBoater]

There is no light when the messenger wire ties into the circuit, with ignition on and clutch in @CorbinsRanger

 

[CorbinsRanger]

There is no light when the messenger wire ties into the circuit, with ignition on and clutch in @CorbinsRanger

Good to know. So lets go to the fuse panel in the cab. Check fuse #19 (25A) It is a PCM power diode which is tied into upcoming PATS. Probably has nothing to do with it but check it anyway. Now go to #24(7.5A) This is the clutch pedal position switch. Also check to see if there is a physical switch that is triggered when you floor the clutch. Still no crank? Lets get under the hood. What we need to test here first is #5(50A) ignition switch/starter relay. Next is fuse #6 which is also a starter relay. Here is a video on fuse locations.

 

[MotorBoater]

Checked all the fuses and they are all good. Relays too. Clutch pedal switch has very minor slop in it-its in good shape. My Instagram followers ( InstaPost ) had suggested to me that i take the battery, starter/solonoid and alternator to get checked. I spun the crankshaft pully as well so motor is not siezed.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

You said that you could bypass and cross the solenoid and it would crank...is that correct?

 

[MotorBoater]

You said that you could bypass and cross the solenoid and it would crank...is that correct?

Yes but it didn't sound like it was turning the motor over....just the starter motor spun. I didn't pay attention to it, I was quick to dismiss because I was focused on whether or not it would actually start >.>
*EDIT I thought it was a clutch thing.. #ShrugEmoji

 

[frozenrabbit]

Crank sensor has nothing to do with the starter working or not, there is no connections in the wiring between those circuits. Bad starter or solenoid.

No start is sounding like the crank sensor. I fixed this exact problem on my 94. Would run and run with no issues, then just flat out not start, then it would, and wouldn't. Easy sign is if you have a tachometer, if it doesn't move when cranking at all, it's a bad crank sensor. On your '98, you can get to the sensor from the out side, on my '94, it's behind the timing cover, so half the front of the motor has to come out. I was chasing my fuel pump for months. No start, fiddle with pump wires and relay, would start. Ultimately it was the crank sensor.

Gave in and tore down the front of the motor to get to the crank sensor. Was cracked in the epoxy on the back of the sensor. Replaced and has never not started since. Been over a year. Repop parts are just junk.

I had replaced the carbon brushes in my alternator, worked for a while, then didn't. China parts. I have no idea what the brushes were made of, but were not carbon, they slowly cut into the contacts on the rotor shaft, 'brushes' were not worn at all.

 

[MotorBoater]

*******UPDATE:

Sorry everyone I've been pretty busy with work... when it rains in Washington people are finding out that their roofs are leaking! lol

So... I was able to use a breaker bar lodged inbetween the clutch pedal and driver seat with the key in the "on" position. Crawled under the truck and got the motor to TURN OVER. (Still don't work with the key but let's come back to that..)

After that I opened the butterfly and sprayed some brake cleaner and did the same thing-IT STARTED BRIEFLY....FKN YAY!

So fuel pump I'm leaning towards, but the fuel inertia switch is throwing me off. How can I go about checking this? I'm going to get a remote starter at Orielly's to make my job easier.