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Ranger till I die


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Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ranger XLY
Transmission
Automatic
Inherited a 2000 Ranger XLT 3.0l when my wife's sister passed, one of the very few items that my wife has to remember her by. We are taking steps in getting it mechanically sound before a paint job and interior redone. The front end has been redone with little left to do except the heater. Getting the heater to work properly has been 6 weekends of frustration and head scratching.

Heater core has been flushed and back flushed several times, , Heater control valve replaced, thermostat replaced, radiator flushed, Blend door checked for opening and closing. all of that in the first few weekends with little success. Note that the coolant was rusty colored. The HVAC only gets mild heat on the "fresh air position" but the air is hotter at the blend door. After all of that a week later the pretty new green coolant was back to a rust color. Also the Climate control module was replaced with a used OEM one. The original one had a 25a fuse stuck in it because it would blow the 7.5 that it's called for.

That led to the radiator being replaced, a full engine flush, new thermostat, new radiator cap and........ same result Mild heat on the the fresh air position only and nothing on any heat position. The only things that haven't been replaced are the 2 heater hoses running out of the heater core and the heater core itself.
 


ericbphoto

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Wellford, SC
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1993
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Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
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6"
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35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
I would try removing the control valve and just run your hoses straight to the heater core. Also, make sure you don’t have a bunch of leaves or mouse nest blocking airflow through the heater core.
 

dvdswan

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1991
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Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
Welcome to the site.
 

2011Supercab

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I see a new heater core in your future.

Welcome to the site
 

rumblecloud

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1994
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Ranger Splash
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
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1-1/2 inch front leveling
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Stock
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31/10.50/15
My credo
What's the worst that could happen?
My sympathies your loss.

.... the coolant was rusty colored. The HVAC only gets mild heat on the "fresh air position" but the air is hotter at the blend door. After all of that a week later the pretty new green coolant was back to a rust color. Also the Climate control module was replaced with a used OEM one. The original one had a 25a fuse stuck in it because it would blow the 7.5 that it's called for.

That led to the radiator being replaced, a full engine flush, new thermostat, new radiator cap and........ same result Mild heat on the the fresh air position only and nothing on any heat position. The only things that haven't been replaced are the 2 heater hoses running out of the heater core and the heater core itself.
Questions, questions...after all the replacements...
Just curious what the temperature gauge is reading? Should be just below center.
What is the air temp at the blend door?
Is the fan working? Air is flowing freely out of all the vents?
Are you able to run it with the proper fuse now?
Is the coolant holding its green color now?
If yes to the above and the air temp at the door is high, I'd be checking to make sure the blend door is opening and closing/operating the way ti's supposed to.

Welcome to TRS. You've done a lot of work so far. Don't let this one get to you.
 
Joined
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Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ranger XLY
Transmission
Automatic
My sympathies your loss.



Questions, questions...after all the replacements...
Just curious what the temperature gauge is reading? Should be just below center.
What is the air temp at the blend door?
Is the fan working? Air is flowing freely out of all the vents?
Are you able to run it with the proper fuse now?
Is the coolant holding its green color now?
If yes to the above and the air temp at the door is high, I'd be checking to make sure the blend door is opening and closing/operating the way ti's supposed to.

Welcome to TRS. You've done a lot of work so far. Don't let this one get to you.
Answering in order

Temp gauge is just below center.... can visually see on the gauge when the thermostat opens.

Haven't checked the temp at the blend door in a few weeks... was hot then but need to check again.

The fan is working fine. The air does not flow freely (like they used to) out all vents on the heat positions.

New/used Climate Control Unit uses the correct (7.5) fuse and does not blow it.

Coolant holding its green color.

When I check the temperature at the blend door I'll check that it is opening and closing as directed.

.......................... too late this has already got to me/us weeks ago.
 
Joined
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Georgia
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2000
Make / Model
Ranger XLY
Transmission
Automatic
Answering in order

Temp gauge is just below center.... can visually see on the gauge when the thermostat opens.

Haven't checked the temp at the blend door in a few weeks... was hot then but need to check again.

The fan is working fine. The air does not flow freely (like they used to) out all vents on the heat positions.

New/used Climate Control Unit uses the correct (7.5) fuse and does not blow it.

Coolant holding its green color.

When I check the temperature at the blend door I'll check that it is opening and closing as directed.

.......................... too late this has already got to me/us weeks ago.
I know this is in the Introduction Forum but thought I would update.

Flushed the Heater core again and poured 220z. of Lime-Away and let it sit for an hour then flushed/back flushed it out before hooking up the heater hoses to the heater core and topping off the coolant. That made a big improvement with the heater which now blows good heat. It's good enough to keep me warm in Georgia winters. I'm tempted to use the Lime-Away again but will have to double check if the chemicals will damage the heater core.
 

DILLARD000

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Anytime you drain+refill coolant, consider swapping the 2 HeaterHoses at the FireWall barbs;
this helps to backflush the HeaterCore between coolant changes, prevent blockages, & extend the life of the Core.
 

superj

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ranger edge
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My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
i need to pop those off and clean the core on my wrangler. its not particularly warm and it is supposed to go to colorado in a few weeks for this next year with my son.

time is running out to get stuff done on that old jeep
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Georgia
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ranger XLY
Transmission
Automatic
Anytime you drain+refill coolant, consider swapping the 2 HeaterHoses at the FireWall barbs;
this helps to backflush the HeaterCore between coolant changes, prevent blockages, & extend the life of the Core.

I have been reading several posts/threads with that suggestion. Now that I know there is life in it will do that.
 

tangoyankee

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1995
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Mazda B4000 SE
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4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 L
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
235/75r15
Anytime you drain+refill coolant, consider swapping the 2 HeaterHoses at the FireWall barbs;
this helps to backflush the HeaterCore between coolant changes, prevent blockages, & extend the life of the Core.
When my b4000 was not blowing hot air, I disconnected the heater core and flushed it both ways with the garden hose. A bunch of black crap came out and it has worked fine since then.
 

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