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James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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superj

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I don't even know how you use that tool, or how it mounts. I, personally, would pass on that tool /\
 

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Josh B

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I know something you may find to be an excellent resource as i have, is the Ford manual on CD, usually rather cheap on Ebay. I got one for my truck in 2006 and it was only about $6 then. It has down to every bolt and screw on the thing
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
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31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
OK sorry about the tool which is totally irrelvant to the work.
Still waiting until someone who knows what they are doing can review my cart and tell me what I don't need of it or if missing anything (earlier post this thread).
I'm assuming then the water pump comes right out once things are loosened up. I only ever had experience with one water pump it was literally 50 years ago. Saab V4, where you technically pulled it with a slide hammer but you actually could just break it with a hammer and take it out and I suspect this is different.
Sometimes I feel like I'm going overboard since the only thing I know for sure is bad is the radiator but to me it makes sense on a truck this old and miles aren't insignificant (125k) to do all the related parts and be done with it.
Am I going to have to get something to repack grease?
Thanks for tip on the CD's that sounds like a winner.
 

fastpakr

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Once everything's disconnected from the pump, it does come right off. The worst case is dealing with gaskets/RTV that may have set up pretty securely over time.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
ok. Yeah typically there is crap stuck / to clean up... I did a real nice job cleaning the inlet for the t-stat housing to put the new upper hose, which was a waste since I'm now replacing the housing.
But I couldn't have found and verified rad leak without first addressing the other leak.
I am not able to find water pump holding tool that is required by iteself. I find this: Amazon.com: YHB 32mm & 36mm Fan Clutch Nut Wrench and Water Pump Holder Tool Kit Removal for BMW Fan Clutch Tool Removal kit (3pcs) - Fan Clutch Removal Tool 36mm and 32mm Fan Clutch Tool Kit : Automotive

It has wrenches, which I don't need if I get the Sunex 36mm. Can't find bar by itself, but if this is the right bar, I guess the cost isn't horrible.
Sunex 936A should be same as the 936. Seems to have supplanted it.
Or I could perhaps omit the Sunex, but, I'd perfer to have a good combination wrench.

If anyone knows where the bar tool by itself is available...
 

pjtoledo

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a water pump holding tool can be improvised. for pulley removal.

grab a boxed end wrench slightly larger than a bolt head, place it over any bolt head and hold it there.
put a socket on any of the other bolts (with bar or ratchet) and rotate until the socket comes into contact with the wrench.
pull/push as needed. leave one in loose so you can get the last tight one.

2022-11-07 11.50.12.jpg
 
Last edited:

Shran

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superj

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2WD
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none
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235s
My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
that bmw one is the one my son has. i used the holder on the 3.0 on my 04 when i changed the fan clutch
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Location
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4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Thank you all. Grearwrench set looks expensive. Improv looks good especially if it's a one-off thing. Seems like you could make it.
Ordered PB blaster and the Sunex 36mm wrench.
Ordered paper shop manual.
 

97RangerXLT

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OEMTOOLS Water Pump Holding Tool (autozone.com)
Do I need this tool to pull water pump? It won't come out when I take off the cover?
The bar in my picture with the Sunex wrench was under 2 bucks and works fantastic with the Sunex wrench. much better set up than the OEM Tool Autozone rental set that was all wallowed/ spread out so that it would not even grip the nut...

AJ
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
Supporting Member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Yeah I just haven't located the bar by itself yet but I'm sure it's out there.
The only thing that looks a little weird from Rockauto is the bottom hose, mine has like 3 bends in it and I can't tell if the one I'm ordering is the same or not, but it's Motorcraft so I have to think it's right.
If it's not, alternative would be try to find one locally in fact might do that first so I can see what I'm getting. Maybe it doesn't need all those bends... but it has to fit w/out hitting things.
Right now my plan is to just put in the rad as soon as it comes, with new bottom hose (top is new already). This should allow me to drive the truck which would be nice since I've had it 2 weeks and not really been able to use it.
I am getting all the other parts I just think it is overambitious to try to do everything at once and in my experience even when you think, oh, this is simple and straightforward, there always seems to be some issue arise that makes it harder than you thought. I don't have any reason to suspect anything else is bad. I understand that good practice would say, you have it apart, do all of it. But on the other hand, if I have the new rad with new hoses in there, it's not all that hard to get it in/out and in fact for some of the stuff I think you just take out the shroud.
Maybe after I get the manuals and totally understand things I'll change my mind but my gut feel today is do what is broken, and have the other parts on hand, and do them either when they fail or when I feel up to it.
Not sure what water pump failure looks like, but I imagine it starts leaking around the shaft (mine isn't).
I opted for the paper manuals vs cd's because I like to be able to see it in front of me. Hope they are good, it's 2 thick books.
There's a choice on temp sensors, going to try to find out what I have and button up the Rockauto order today.
 

fastpakr

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I'm not sure where my fan clutch tools are, but I'll try to stop by the storage unit and poke around if yours don't work out.

I may have missed a message - why are you replacing the temp sensor?
 

Shran

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You can usually rent that water pump/fan clutch tool from parts stores. I just bought it because I have needed it like 100 times. Gearwrench/KD Tools one is really good quality.

Hopefully that 36mm wrench you bought will fit. I have run into several fan clutches (I think they are the heavy & extreme duty ones) that require you to to use a really thin wrench because the finned part of the clutch sits further back.
 

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