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R6 axle swap, price, what to look for?


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Hey there, like most of us, I'm trying not to overpay. I have a 98 auto ranger with a 96 code axle. Private sale local to me is selling a R6 code axle from a 94 ranger manual. What should I be looking to spend for this? And since it's pretty old, what can I do to refreshen the differential?
 


SenorNoob

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1.5" Front + 4" Rear
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I'm not familiar with the codes. What's the difference? Too old to be the Torsen. Here anywhere from scrap price to $150 is normal for a used axle.

There are differential rebuild kits. They do require specialty tools to properly install. I'd probably have it done. My experience with gear mesh is that it's not easy.
 
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The r6 axle comes from the factory with an LSD. I'm guessing since it's not torsen then it's the clutch pack units?
 

SenorNoob

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Should be. If you are going to rebuild one, it doesn't look like that big a deal to swap the carrier at the same time. Then you can whatever you want. You might still want the other axle to work on then just swap it in tho.
 
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Yeah that's what I was thinking. So I don't have any down time. But what should I be paying for this axle? I don't want to get ripped off or over pay
 

scotts90ranger

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Junkyard price anymore is normally $150-175 for the cheaper yards plus tax and environmental fees and the higher price they pull yards are normally $300 or so I think... but I don't go to those but do see some on craigslist for the higher end price.

If it's a lower mile say 150k or less for private sale I'd say expect $200 or less and you should be fine just rebuilding the limited slip for a while, that's easy enough to do while the axle is out and doesn't require any special tools.
 
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Thanks for everyone's responses thus far. So I picked up an r6 axle from a private seller for $200 since that's what everyone was saying I should pay.

I really don't want to install the axle as is, but I cannot find any rebuild kits or anything like that. The only thing that wears and should be replaced are the clutch packs correct? I have never dealt with a LSD before so there's that.
 

scotts90ranger

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Pretty much just the clutch packs aside from the normal stuff like axle shaft seals and brake parts, if the pinion seal looks wet now would be a good time there too.

If you do redo the clutches in the diff stack them in a more logical order, from the factory they have frictions against frictions and steels against steels, alternate them and see if you can get an extra in there without running out of room for the C clips.
 

SenorNoob

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I would change wheel bearings and seals. Go ahead and get the timkens. House brand (O'Reilly's) was lacking on the roller retainers. I destroyed one trying to put it in.
 
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WutUp Clegg

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I found that the original 7.5 was swapped for an 8.8. How do you read this doff tag that’s on it. I need to know if it has an LSD and the number of splines. Heck, I don’t even know if it’s from another Ranger or a Mustang.

IMG_0840.jpeg
 

pjtoledo

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here is a site with codes, scroll down to see that V series is on their page 17
the tag will not show splines, unless you look up the model #
the ratios are listed as 4.10, that is a normal open diff, 4L10 would mean it's a locker
8.8 is ring gear bolt circle
there is a number before the 8.8 denoting ratio, ;it's not visible on yours.
3J22 is a date of mfg
V330l is the model #,, S means mfg'd at Sterling plant, most axles are S
V is mfg at Van Dyke
Ford Rear Axle Assembly Identification - Page 12 - FORDification.com
 
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WutUp Clegg

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Thank you
 

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