Question about C115 and how to route my Starter Relay Circuit

[Ninovoa]

Im currently ironing out the wiring for my V8 swap into my Ranger and I have a question about the starter relay circuit.

The Recipient: 1994 Ranger Splash, 5 Speed Manual
The Donor: 2000 Explorer 5.0

So this diagram is of the starter relay circuit for a 2000 Explorer. Starting from the Ignition Switch it passes through the Clutch Pedal Position sensor (which is jumped in explorers because they are pretty much all automatics), then it seems to travel the transmission plugs to check if the transmission is in park or neutral before allowing the starter relay to be energized. My question is as follows: can I shorten the circuit to instead go directly to the starter relay after it passes the clutch pedal sensor? The second picture demonstrates what I would essentially be doing. I don't think it would be a problem because my car will be a manual and therefore only needs to be in neutral to start. My fear is that I might hot-in-start circuit might need to make a trip to the PCM for whatever reason to get the car started. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you!

 

[RonD]

Yes, that's fine, that is what Manual trans wiring looked like


2000 Explorer will have PATS type B, passive anti-theft system
So there would have been a separate PATS module above Glove Box that's "matched" to the 2000 V8 computer
The PATS module Grounded the starter relay, if PATS transponder key passed the test
You can just ground the starter relay, so skip that part of PATS security
But 2000 Explorer V8 computer will not operate fuel pump or fuel injectors without the "OK to start" message from PATS module

 

[Ninovoa]

Alright, thank you!

As for the PATS, what are my options to when it comes to working around the security measures? I've read that on 1995+ Rangers you have to swap the steering column, but I doubt that's an option for me because I have a 1994 which has the old style column/dashboard setup. Is there any way I can fake the PATS "OK to Start" message or can it be tuned out? Sadly my engine I bought was advertised as a 1996 and at the time I didn't know any better

 

[RonD]

No, no "work around" for PATS, wouldn't be much of an anti-theft system if there was, lol

If you can't get the matching PATS module(and key) for the 2000 Computer, then best path would be to find a "tuner" who can delete PATS along with the Automatic trans software(it will be an issue as well) from the 2000 V8 computer
They can load 5.0l V8 performance tune(for regular gas, 87 octane) and manual transmission software, and remove the "OK to Start" check(PATS)

Local speed shops might know someone who tunes Ford EEC-V computers, should be lots of them in Miami area, Google: Miami dyno tune
Should get lots of "hits"

 

[Ninovoa]

No, no "work around" for PATS, wouldn't be much of an anti-theft system if there was, lol

Makes sense, I was just wondering if some cheeky solution has been discovered over the years. Tuning it out is a good option because I could also tune it to manual and adjust the tire size (for speedo calculation). Apart from those 3 things (PATS, Manual Trans, and tire size) are there any other adjustments I should make to the PCM to make my swap a little easier?

 

[RonD]

Forgot about the speed thing, and there will be an issue
2000 Explorer computer just has VSS IN(no speed software), and it came from the 4 wheel ABS module
(2001 and up computers used OSS sensor(speed IN) then converted that signal to VSS OUT to send to speedo/cruise)

1994 Ranger uses/needs a speedometer cable, last year for speedo cables
The Ranger transmission(M5OD-R1) won't bolt to the V8
You won't find that type of hook up on a 1997 or later manual transmission that fits a 5.0l V8

So 1988-1996 M5OD-R2 from a 2WD 5.0l full size truck would be needed

Your current speedo drive with VSS attached can be used in the bigger transmission on tail shaft
The VSS uses the standard 8,000ppm signal that would go directly to 2000 computer pin 58(VSS IN)
Also to cruise control if so equipped
Speedometer calibration is done by changing the Driven Gear on the transmission end of speedometer cable drive

The earlier M5OD-R2(1988-1996) have the shifter a few inches farther forward than your current transmission
So you will need to cut the floor out a bit, and shift arm will hit the dash(1st, 3rd, and OD) unless you bend it a bit, so make a custom shift arm

I have read that you can use the shifter top plate from a 1997 to 2003 M5OD-R2 to get shifter farther back, matching current shifter location, but never tried it myself
The 1997-2003 don't have speedometer cable hook ups, speedometers were all electric at that point

 

[Ninovoa]

Lots of good information thank you!

Okay, so considering Im not using ABS nor cruise control really the speed signal only really needs to go to the gauge on the dashboard, right? Can ignore the "VSS In" pin on the main engine harness (C115) or will it throw some sort of code?

As for the transmission I'm planning on using the new TKX 5 Speed trans with a forward position shifter, so I think between that and the aftermarket shifter levers I should be able to get the shift knob in an acceptable spot.

 

[RonD]

Your computer NEEDS VSS signal, or you will have a 3,000rpm limit on engine
No VSS signal = 0 MPH
And all engine computers have a 3,000 RPM Limiter, when trans is in Neutral OR Speed is under 5 MPH
And yes it will throw a code as well, P0500

As long as the "TKX 5" has a speedometer cable hook up you will be fine as you can use the cable/VSS combo unit
Looks like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/speedsensor.gif

You have one on the 1994 transmission
And as said, 1994 dash NEEDS a speedometer cable, later model dashes are not compatible

No connection to ABS