Question about 4*4

[RC2]

Hi I just bought a 89 Bronco 2 trying to familiarize myself with the 4*4 operation, have owners manual and am stymied. I have electronic push buttons on the dash and manual locking hubs. Owners Manual seems to say it is either electronic plus automatic hubs or manual plus a shifter and indicator lights on the dash. Any thoughts appreciated

Ok I think I have a mile marker conversion going on here. Time to learn what this is.

So run in free position dry pavement etc, use lock position and then use electronic controls for 4x4 operation? Yes? I am a grasshopper. Had a Jeep for years it was simple to use.

 

[dvdswan]

Welcome to the site. Yes, the hubs need to be in the lock position for 4WD to work.

 

[RC2]

Welcome to the site. Yes, the hubs need to be in the lock position for 4WD to work.

Thanks !!

 

[RonD]

Many Ranger/B2 owners switched from auto to manual hubs for reliability

Electric shift works regardless of auto or manual hubs there was no connection between them until 1998

The 1997 and earlier Auto Hubs were activated(locked) and de-acvtivated(unlocked) by the torque on each front axle
So they were mechanical not electric or vacuum

When transfer case is in 2WD no "power" is going to the front axles
So the wheel/hub turned the axle, reverse torque, so the hub unlocked, if it was locked
In 4WD the axle had "power" so forced the wheel/hub to turn, positive torque and hub locked, if it was unlocked
OK system but................ALL 4x4s come with an OPEN front differential

This means the easiest axle to turn gets ALL the "power"
So if one auto hub didn't lock then no 4WD, the unlocked hub was easiest to turn
And auto hub parts can be hard to get anymore, so manual hubs were the go to

You can shift from 2WD to 4high while driving even if the manual front hubs are not locked, but of course no 4WD unless they are locked, lol, but it doesn't hurt anything
Most people leave the hubs locked all the time or at least all winter

I think its actually better to have the front u-joints and differential spinning all the time(hubs locked) to keep the lube and oil spread out, vs DRY STARTS when 4WD is needed
But personal opinion, have no facts to back it up

 

[RC2]

Many Ranger/B2 owners switched from auto to manual hubs for reliability

Electric shift works regardless of auto or manual hubs there was no connection between them until 1998

The 1997 and earlier Auto Hubs were activated(locked) and de-acvtivated(unlocked) by the torque on each front axle
So they were mechanical not electric or vacuum

When transfer case is in 2WD no "power" is going to the front axles
So the wheel/hub turned the axle, reverse torque, so the hub unlocked, if it was locked
In 4WD the axle had "power" so forced the wheel/hub to turn, positive torque and hub locked, if it was unlocked
OK system but................ALL 4x4s come with an OPEN front differential

This means the easiest axle to turn gets ALL the "power"
So if one auto hub didn't lock then no 4WD, the unlocked hub was easiest to turn
And auto hub parts can be hard to get anymore, so manual hubs were the go to

You can shift from 2WD to 4high while driving even if the manual front hubs are not locked, but of course no 4WD unless they are locked, lol, but it doesn't hurt anything
Most people leave the hubs locked all the time or at least all winter

I think its actually better to have the front u-joints and differential spinning all the time(hubs locked) to keep the lube and oil spread out, vs DRY STARTS when 4WD is needed
But personal opinion, have no facts to back it up

Thanks just crawled under this has the craziest rear driveshaft no ujoints? have a vibration on freeway can feel it at lower speeds too just not as bad. assuming lock ing the hubs would not change that much

 

[RonD]

Yes, there were 3 different types of rear drives shafts on the B2s, seen here: https://www.broncocorral.com/tech_library/bronco-ii-rear-driveshafts-pinion-angles/

Good page to bookmark here: https://www.broncocorral.com/tech_library/
Bronco and Bronco II tech articles

And they also have a forum and other Articles: https://www.broncocorral.com/

 

[RC2]

Yes, there were 3 different types of rear drives shafts on the B2s, seen here: https://www.broncocorral.com/tech_library/bronco-ii-rear-driveshafts-pinion-angles/

Good page to bookmark here: https://www.broncocorral.com/tech_library/
Bronco and Bronco II tech articles

And they also have a forum and other Articles: https://www.broncocorral.com/

Was just looking at that and Rock Auto carries the u joint axle(rear) looks easy enough to change. Was reading elsewhere was not a bronco though they said to remove front driveshaft to see if vibration goes away? Axle does not spin if it is in free position on the Mile maker hubs does it? Front axle looks like it needs new u-joints anyways. Should prob look at motor mounts transmission mounts etc. needs valve cover gaskets Truck only has 80000 miles solid and looks good.

 

[RonD]

Correct, with hubs unlocked and transfer case in 2WD nothing is spinning up front, so no rotational vibration from that end

I had a split belt in a rear tire once, spun balanced fine, but failed road force balance test
Chased my tail a bit on that one
Was told AFTER I had all 4 tires load balanced, that I should have just rotated tires back to front and if I felt in the the steering wheel after that then it WAS a bad tire
Would have save a bit of time and MONEY had I known that before, so just passing it on, might not be the problem but FREE and doesn't take too long to do

 

[RC2]

Correct, with hubs unlocked and transfer case in 2WD nothing is spinning up front, so no rotational vibration from that end

I had a split belt in a rear tire once, spun balanced fine, but failed road force balance test
Chased my tail a bit on that one
Was told AFTER I had all 4 tires load balanced, that I should have just rotated tires back to front and if I felt in the the steering wheel after that then it WAS a bad tire
Would have save a bit of time and MONEY had I known that before, so just passing it on, might not be the problem but FREE and doesn't take too long to do

Thanks, will see, I noticed these rims used to have weights on outside, now they have the adhesive ones inside only had it for a week they are new tires. They certainly did not clean the inside of the rims very well.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Most newer cars use stick on weights so some tire shops are using those for everything. I went to using internal balance media in most of mine. My F-150 and choptop have ceramic beads in the tires and the one Ranger has glass beads. I get some vibration in the Ranger but I’m thinking it is a little light on the amount. Need to get that truck put back together and I’m gonna add another ounce or two and see where that puts me. Simple physics explains how that works, as the tire spins, the media will move around seeking equilibrium and then centrifugal force will “stick” it there, achieving balance right where it is needed. So the tires “balance” themselves every time it’s driven.

 

[4x4prepper]

I use .177 copper coated BBs or #8.5 lead shot. The lead shot will fit down the valve stem with the valve removed.