Purchased a 1999 XLT, wrecked with a tweaked frame

[RonD]

Right, my idea was to anchor to either side of the bend in the frame, and pull the center against those 2 anchor points to straghten.

Ranger weighs 3,200lbs, more like 2,500lbs in the front
You need something holding the Ranger from moving if you exceed 2,500lbs when pulling on the bent frame
Chaining to another vehicle can work, but not a golf cart

 

[noteworks]

Wow, glad it finally worked out though.

So, I took the fender off. No cab impact. Because this was a guardrail he hit, the damage is laser localized. If he had hit a truck, or ditch, the area of damage would be much worse. Hopefully the frame shop doesnt rape me too bad on this pull.

When I say the shop will have direct access, I mean direct. No cab or bad to work around, heck the tire barely has to come off. and now with the fender and inner fender off, they could have lunch in there.

There's some wrinkling on top of the apron, but the cab is pretty spotless.

See attached...

 

[noteworks]

Ranger weighs 3,200lbs, more like 2,500lbs in the front
You need something holding the Ranger from moving if you exceed 2,500lbs when pulling on the bent frame
Chaining to another vehicle can work, but not a golf cart

Haha. Like I said, I'm out of trees but I have a pretty large Ford anchor, and a 2500 Turbo Diesel 4x4 Suburban to pull with...

The anchor and the puller...

In all seriousness, I bet I'd just pull my flatbed sideways through the Ranger trying to straighten it. But if the prices are too high for me, I'll likely MacGyver something.

 

[noteworks]

BTW, I measured from the firewall to the rad support. I've got to pull exactly 1/2" on the right to true that up. Less than I imagined.

 

[noteworks]

The $640 question - is it an early '99 without PATS or later with??

If you're swapping into something engine size/transmission doesn't matter - you just have to transfer the appropriate part from this truck into the new one (ECM, GEMS & maybe PATS) At some point, it becomes easiest to swap dashes, but that isn't too complicated assuming you have a couple buddies to hold it in place while you get the 1st couple bolts in.

Yes, it would be a waste to put the 4x4 transmission and transfer case into a 2wd truck, but Ford did it with 2wd Bronco IIs. (2wd Bronco IIs are rare as hen's teeth, so Ford didn't bother with different length driveshaft for a 2wd, they just installed a transfer case -without front driveshaft and used the 4wd rear driveshaft).

p.s. I have a good pair of vacuum knuckles in the garage from when I swapped to live axle. If you decide you need one, I could ship it to you at your cost.

Don, I sent you a message. I'm very interested in a passenger side vacuum knuckle if you're still game. Thank you!!

 

[noteworks]

I'd like an interior fender picture to see if there's any damage to the sheet metal between the front clip and firewall.

If the truck was brand new, it would be 50/50 if they would total the truck or fix it. As it in a '99, its totalled. Just because it is possible, doesn't mean it it the right thing to do. You will note in the video, they give up trying to straighten some of the sheetmetal parts and just replace them...

Swapping frames is how I resolved this situation, and it is a ton of work - the truck better have sentimental value.

Apron picture attached as well as cab area. Amazingly great shape.

 

[don4331]

Don, I sent you a message. I'm very interested in a passenger side vacuum knuckle if you're still game. Thank you!!

As luck would have it, the driver's side is in top bin in storage, but passenger's side is hiding. The upper arms are there, the sway bar, etc, etc just not what we're looking for (It is there, just between work and honey-do list, I haven't had time to move the top bin aside to get at the bottom one).

I see it was just paint that was cracked, not frame, so I am slight less concerned. (For the record, I still think swapping the front frame section in the proper solution).

Ranger frame is 1/8" thick, roughly 6" tall (plus some horizontal flanges) and made of 30 ksi steel. So, you will need north of 15 tons (probably more than 20) to straighten that kink. And you need to keep force localized - you don't want to flatten the hump over the rear axle instead of straightening this damage. Heat wrench can be of assistance, but comes with risk.

The issue with using rubber tired vehicles - the tires flex.

The TD20 bulldozer was much easier to do a smooth job with than the 4020. With the JD, you would lower the blade to take just a skim coat, then the tires would flex and you would be taking 3", you would lift a little and the tires would unload and blade would be in the air. With the bulldozer, there was very little flex.​

With the bulldozer, it rocks like at titter totter over any hill, so you need to be aware of how it is balancing to avoid making hills and valleys, but at least you aren't fighting tire flex too.​

The same would happen if you are trying to use vehicles to straighten - because the tires flex, it is very difficult to get a precise controlled pull. You don't want to over do it.

 

[noteworks]

As luck would have it, the driver's side is in top bin in storage, but passenger's side is hiding. The upper arms are there, the sway bar, etc, etc just not what we're looking for (It is there, just between work and honey-do list, I haven't had time to move the top bin aside to get at the bottom one).

I see it was just paint that was cracked, not frame, so I am slight less concerned. (For the record, I still think swapping the front frame section in the proper solution).

Ranger frame is 1/8" thick, roughly 6" tall (plus some horizontal flanges) and made of 30 ksi steel. So, you will need north of 15 tons (probably more than 20) to straighten that kink. And you need to keep force localized - you don't want to flatten the hump over the rear axle instead of straightening this damage. Heat wrench can be of assistance, but comes with risk.

The issue with using rubber tired vehicles - the tires flex.

The TD20 bulldozer was much easier to do a smooth job with than the 4020. With the JD, you would lower the blade to take just a skim coat, then the tires would flex and you would be taking 3", you would lift a little and the tires would unload and blade would be in the air. With the bulldozer, there was very little flex.​

With the bulldozer, it rocks like at titter totter over any hill, so you need to be aware of how it is balancing to avoid making hills and valleys, but at least you aren't fighting tire flex too.​

The same would happen if you are trying to use vehicles to straighten - because the tires flex, it is very difficult to get a precise controlled pull. You don't want to over do it.

No issues Don, take your time locating it. Just making sure you got my message.

My soft plan is against trying to use vehicles to straighten it, as I'd have no finesse or fine tuning, and could possibly overpull, as you referenced. So, I've separated the tie rod end and the knuckle knub that was attached to it that broke off the knuckle because I've got to restore steering somewhat to move it around my yard, trailers, and wherever it goes to be straightened. So, I'll weld that piece back on, and reattach the tie rod end temporarily. I still may wrap a chain around the lower ball joint, and attempt to pull some of the distortion out of the lower control arm. This is because there is a lot of binding in the knuckle, and you literally have to kick the tire to get it to go left/right (with no tie rod end attached, so it should be freely turning). If I can pull an inch or two out of the LCA, that would go a long way to help align the UCA and LCA. Right now, I've got about a 4 inch variance between the upper and lower, hence the binding. Pulling out some of that stamped steel in the LCA will also help move the tire forward an inch or two, then the frame pull will do the rest.

I've got a fair amount of work travel coming up, but I'll reengage when I'm back.

Thanks for everyone's input. It's appreciated.